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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project
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<blockquote data-quote="Axhammer" data-source="post: 500413" data-attributes="member: 16767"><p>For those who have never dealt with solid rivets, I will talk about how I removed the rivets that were attaching the various parts I have removed.</p><p></p><p>The rivets I removed were 1/4” (.25) Brazier Head rivets.</p><p></p><p>I drilled each rivet head with a new bit smaller than 3/16” (.187), probably closer to 1/8” (.125). I simply grabbed a new bit out of my drill index to drill the pilot holes. I drilled these holes as close to the center as possible, and deep enough to assure it was deeper that the thickness of the rivet head. It is important to drill straight perpendicular holes.</p><p></p><p>Next, I drilled each rivet with a 3/16” (.187) bit, again deeper than the head of the rivet.</p><p></p><p>Using a 3/16” pin punch I stuck the punch into the hole, and pried each rivet head side to side until each head popped off.</p><p></p><p>I used vice grip pliers to grab and break the bucktails off the backside, leaving a clean hole.</p><p></p><p>When I install the new rivets I will “wet install” each rivet with a sealant/adhesive. The sealant will be applied to any permanent part that I rivet together on this boat. When this boat was assembled at the factory when it was new, they did not wet install anything, I guess that is the industry standard. In the aviation industry parts are wet installed for several reasons, like added strength, and corrosion resistance.</p><p></p><p>I bought several different brand adhesive, or sealants to conduct a test. I will bond three different identical parts together using 3M 5200, Red Devil Strong-Bond 0956, and West SystemG/flex 655 thickened epoxy adhesive.</p><p></p><p>I want an adhesive that has a slight rubbery characteristic when cured. It will be strong, and hold up to stress and vibrations in a marine environment. I know 5200 is kinda the go-to adhesive for marine applications, but I prefer an adhesive that has a firmer feel when cured. I’m looking for something similar to 23699 used in the aerospace industry, but cheaper.</p><p></p><p>We will see…</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Axhammer, post: 500413, member: 16767"] For those who have never dealt with solid rivets, I will talk about how I removed the rivets that were attaching the various parts I have removed. The rivets I removed were 1/4” (.25) Brazier Head rivets. I drilled each rivet head with a new bit smaller than 3/16” (.187), probably closer to 1/8” (.125). I simply grabbed a new bit out of my drill index to drill the pilot holes. I drilled these holes as close to the center as possible, and deep enough to assure it was deeper that the thickness of the rivet head. It is important to drill straight perpendicular holes. Next, I drilled each rivet with a 3/16” (.187) bit, again deeper than the head of the rivet. Using a 3/16” pin punch I stuck the punch into the hole, and pried each rivet head side to side until each head popped off. I used vice grip pliers to grab and break the bucktails off the backside, leaving a clean hole. When I install the new rivets I will “wet install” each rivet with a sealant/adhesive. The sealant will be applied to any permanent part that I rivet together on this boat. When this boat was assembled at the factory when it was new, they did not wet install anything, I guess that is the industry standard. In the aviation industry parts are wet installed for several reasons, like added strength, and corrosion resistance. I bought several different brand adhesive, or sealants to conduct a test. I will bond three different identical parts together using 3M 5200, Red Devil Strong-Bond 0956, and West SystemG/flex 655 thickened epoxy adhesive. I want an adhesive that has a slight rubbery characteristic when cured. It will be strong, and hold up to stress and vibrations in a marine environment. I know 5200 is kinda the go-to adhesive for marine applications, but I prefer an adhesive that has a firmer feel when cured. I’m looking for something similar to 23699 used in the aerospace industry, but cheaper. We will see… [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project
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