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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project
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<blockquote data-quote="sonny1" data-source="post: 502624" data-attributes="member: 32555"><p>First off you choice in machine is excellent. Clearance effect is set for penetration. Try it on a +1 This will cut down on the amount of penetration but will help clean the aluminum as you weld. Will result in a little wider bead. Allow more pre flow. A good practice is to goose the peddle and then while gas is still running begin welding. This will cut down on cracks. Post flow needs to be increase. Very important to hold the torch over the end of the weld until aluminum has cooled off some. This will help eliminate what is known as bug eyes. Looks like a hole at the end of your weld because it is. This practice will help in reducing cracks at the end of the weld. Now we will talk about your welds. Not bad pretty good actually. With your post flow set longer as you come to the end of the weld back off your heat and add a small amount of rod. This will eliminate the depression at the end of your weld. Proper post flow will allow your aluminum to cool with gas coverage. Practice by lowering your heat and letting the puddle form before adding rod. This will give your brain and arm to get rhythm. Sounds funny but after you have run a few beads you will understand. Try to add a little less rod in the puddle. Add the rod for a quick dip and then add it more often. This will result in closer ripples and a smoother looking bead. The weld should be just above the surface. Not flat or concave. This will result in a bead that is less prone to cracking along the legs of the weld Plus it will look really sharp. Hope this helps. Practice makes perfect. I have been practicing for over 22 years as a full time tig welder. Forgot to mention use a stainless steel brush and clean area that is to be welded. This is very important.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sonny1, post: 502624, member: 32555"] First off you choice in machine is excellent. Clearance effect is set for penetration. Try it on a +1 This will cut down on the amount of penetration but will help clean the aluminum as you weld. Will result in a little wider bead. Allow more pre flow. A good practice is to goose the peddle and then while gas is still running begin welding. This will cut down on cracks. Post flow needs to be increase. Very important to hold the torch over the end of the weld until aluminum has cooled off some. This will help eliminate what is known as bug eyes. Looks like a hole at the end of your weld because it is. This practice will help in reducing cracks at the end of the weld. Now we will talk about your welds. Not bad pretty good actually. With your post flow set longer as you come to the end of the weld back off your heat and add a small amount of rod. This will eliminate the depression at the end of your weld. Proper post flow will allow your aluminum to cool with gas coverage. Practice by lowering your heat and letting the puddle form before adding rod. This will give your brain and arm to get rhythm. Sounds funny but after you have run a few beads you will understand. Try to add a little less rod in the puddle. Add the rod for a quick dip and then add it more often. This will result in closer ripples and a smoother looking bead. The weld should be just above the surface. Not flat or concave. This will result in a bead that is less prone to cracking along the legs of the weld Plus it will look really sharp. Hope this helps. Practice makes perfect. I have been practicing for over 22 years as a full time tig welder. Forgot to mention use a stainless steel brush and clean area that is to be welded. This is very important. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project
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