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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1997 Tracker Pro Team 17 overhaul
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<blockquote data-quote="dearl" data-source="post: 429482" data-attributes="member: 1760"><p>Just for future reference anytime you deal with corrosion on Aluminum, use a chemical treatment. Aluma prep 33 and alodine is the best way to create a chromate conversion. This will kill and keep corrosion from forming again. Its pricey, but phosphoric acid diluted or muriatic acid diluted will do the same thing. Work it in with a stainless wire brush, and flush real good with plenty of water. Using a baking soda neutralizer afterwards is a plus to make sure you don't burn through the aluminum. Dry real good then as soon as its dry don't touch it with your hands or wipe it with anything, but give it a good coat of zinc chromate primer. Then use a patch twice the size of the effected area if you can.</p><p></p><p> Corrosion once formed is very hard to get rid of and eventually eat your boat. If you plan to keep it any length of time, try to vent some air under the floor to help keep it dry. A hull that stays wet under the deck just intensifies the corrosion process.</p><p></p><p> I've worked on literally hundreds of aluminum hulls and seen just about every Jerry Rig known to man, but a lot of people don't understand how to properly address some issues or they don't care. The plates bolted through the hull should have been your first red flag of major issues, if not the flex seal painted on the bottom should have been a dead give away.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dearl, post: 429482, member: 1760"] Just for future reference anytime you deal with corrosion on Aluminum, use a chemical treatment. Aluma prep 33 and alodine is the best way to create a chromate conversion. This will kill and keep corrosion from forming again. Its pricey, but phosphoric acid diluted or muriatic acid diluted will do the same thing. Work it in with a stainless wire brush, and flush real good with plenty of water. Using a baking soda neutralizer afterwards is a plus to make sure you don't burn through the aluminum. Dry real good then as soon as its dry don't touch it with your hands or wipe it with anything, but give it a good coat of zinc chromate primer. Then use a patch twice the size of the effected area if you can. Corrosion once formed is very hard to get rid of and eventually eat your boat. If you plan to keep it any length of time, try to vent some air under the floor to help keep it dry. A hull that stays wet under the deck just intensifies the corrosion process. I've worked on literally hundreds of aluminum hulls and seen just about every Jerry Rig known to man, but a lot of people don't understand how to properly address some issues or they don't care. The plates bolted through the hull should have been your first red flag of major issues, if not the flex seal painted on the bottom should have been a dead give away. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1997 Tracker Pro Team 17 overhaul
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