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Adding a zinc anode to a tin boat for saltwater use
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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 398953" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p><strong>Zinc Anode Info:</strong> They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words, so I’ll be brief. Quite simply I don’t paint or I remove the paint where I’ll affix a common ‘rudder’ zinc to the hull. </p><p></p><p>For a zinc anode to work correctly, it must be in full contact with bare, clean metal. I drilled out, then wet out the wood transom core with thin epoxy, then imbedded a SS threaded-insert into the wood using thickened epoxy once the thin stuff had ‘kicked’ (tacky, i.e., starting to cure). This makes sure that the 2 epoxy layers chemically bond with each other, making a stronger junction, and albeit a waterproof one to boot!</p><p></p><p>Then I just affix the rudder zinc with a short SS bolt, gooped up well (bolt threads only) with marine synthetic water-resistant grease, e.g., OMC/Bombardier ‘Triple Guard’ grease.</p><p></p><p>Simple and it works 8) !</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 398953, member: 15636"] [b]Zinc Anode Info:[/b] They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words, so I’ll be brief. Quite simply I don’t paint or I remove the paint where I’ll affix a common ‘rudder’ zinc to the hull. For a zinc anode to work correctly, it must be in full contact with bare, clean metal. I drilled out, then wet out the wood transom core with thin epoxy, then imbedded a SS threaded-insert into the wood using thickened epoxy once the thin stuff had ‘kicked’ (tacky, i.e., starting to cure). This makes sure that the 2 epoxy layers chemically bond with each other, making a stronger junction, and albeit a waterproof one to boot! Then I just affix the rudder zinc with a short SS bolt, gooped up well (bolt threads only) with marine synthetic water-resistant grease, e.g., OMC/Bombardier ‘Triple Guard’ grease. Simple and it works 8) ! [/QUOTE]
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Adding a zinc anode to a tin boat for saltwater use
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