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Boat House
Correct repair sequence - Saltwater Corrosion
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<blockquote data-quote="baracuda" data-source="post: 478898" data-attributes="member: 28896"><p>thanks for the replies.</p><p></p><p>There is plenty of meat to weld where the crack is, as the pitted corrosion is just what rests on the bunk. the whole corroded area is probably 3.5" x 8". i have been looking at the G-Flex option as well, would you use something like that to put under a patch to bond instead of 5200? </p><p></p><p>i have also considered putting a patch like mentioned on the outside with rivets then sealer, then heading inside with gluvit or something similar to back it up.</p><p></p><p>for the flotation i am going to use OJ and soda bottles with the tops glued on.</p><p></p><p>trying to get it as close to good as possible. this boat only goes in salt water, but is trailered.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="baracuda, post: 478898, member: 28896"] thanks for the replies. There is plenty of meat to weld where the crack is, as the pitted corrosion is just what rests on the bunk. the whole corroded area is probably 3.5" x 8". i have been looking at the G-Flex option as well, would you use something like that to put under a patch to bond instead of 5200? i have also considered putting a patch like mentioned on the outside with rivets then sealer, then heading inside with gluvit or something similar to back it up. for the flotation i am going to use OJ and soda bottles with the tops glued on. trying to get it as close to good as possible. this boat only goes in salt water, but is trailered. [/QUOTE]
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Correct repair sequence - Saltwater Corrosion
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