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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
First Post: 1959 Monark 16 foot Jon
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<blockquote data-quote="typed by ben" data-source="post: 332103" data-attributes="member: 11717"><p>id use solid rivets, not blind for that part of the boat since youre going through the hull- just need 2 hammers basically</p><p></p><p>aluminum brazier head solid rivet:</p><p><img src="https://img3.fastenal.com/productimages/11138208.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>i did mine with a 4 lb engineer hammer</p><p><img src="https://www.lowes.com/images/LCI/Planning/BuyingGuides/bg_HammerBG_engineer.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>and a ball peen</p><p><img src="https://www.professionalequipment.com/product_images/Full/lbv96727s.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>you hold the engineer hammer head solidly against the machined (mushroomed) head, then whack the shank with the flat end of the ball peen a few times. it will start to flatten out. the rule of thumb is that it must flatten to be 150% of its original shank diameter, so if you use a 3/16 (.188) rivet your shank needs to grow to 9/32 (.281). i ended up using a 1/4-20 flat washer (which has a .281 clearance) as a fit gauge, if the washer fit over the shank i needed to flatten it more. once its squashed adequately you can flip your ball peen hammer over and peen out the shank. its very quick and easy, just a little noisy. theres all kinds of special tools you can purchase but for this type of job its not totally necessary.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="typed by ben, post: 332103, member: 11717"] id use solid rivets, not blind for that part of the boat since youre going through the hull- just need 2 hammers basically aluminum brazier head solid rivet: [img]https://img3.fastenal.com/productimages/11138208.jpg[/img] i did mine with a 4 lb engineer hammer [img]https://www.lowes.com/images/LCI/Planning/BuyingGuides/bg_HammerBG_engineer.jpg[/img] and a ball peen [img]https://www.professionalequipment.com/product_images/Full/lbv96727s.jpg[/img] you hold the engineer hammer head solidly against the machined (mushroomed) head, then whack the shank with the flat end of the ball peen a few times. it will start to flatten out. the rule of thumb is that it must flatten to be 150% of its original shank diameter, so if you use a 3/16 (.188) rivet your shank needs to grow to 9/32 (.281). i ended up using a 1/4-20 flat washer (which has a .281 clearance) as a fit gauge, if the washer fit over the shank i needed to flatten it more. once its squashed adequately you can flip your ball peen hammer over and peen out the shank. its very quick and easy, just a little noisy. theres all kinds of special tools you can purchase but for this type of job its not totally necessary. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
First Post: 1959 Monark 16 foot Jon
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