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MIrrocraft Deep Fisherman - Deeeep scratch repair
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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 459052" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>Having replaced inside and outside transom skins, I can assure you that <strong><em>you do not simply "fold" in the sides and bottom</em></strong> ... the rounded shape(s) must be fully maintained on the piece. This means annealing the piece and hammer forming a <u>rounded transition</u> to the bends with at least a 3" overlap. In some places at the corner, some tin needs to stretch and some needs to compress, in order to make a uniform bend - without bulking or folding. Any fold will form a stress riser and will crack.</p><p></p><p>I can assure you this is not for the feint of heart if you don't know what you're doing. The task would be far easier if one had access to auto body tooling like an 'English wheel' or planishing hammer, but it can be done by hand in the manner of a medieval blacksmith ... as my rebuild attests. I would also use 0.090" tin and have a sheet if needed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 459052, member: 15636"] Having replaced inside and outside transom skins, I can assure you that [b][i]you do not simply "fold" in the sides and bottom[/i][/b] ... the rounded shape(s) must be fully maintained on the piece. This means annealing the piece and hammer forming a [u]rounded transition[/u] to the bends with at least a 3" overlap. In some places at the corner, some tin needs to stretch and some needs to compress, in order to make a uniform bend - without bulking or folding. Any fold will form a stress riser and will crack. I can assure you this is not for the feint of heart if you don't know what you're doing. The task would be far easier if one had access to auto body tooling like an 'English wheel' or planishing hammer, but it can be done by hand in the manner of a medieval blacksmith ... as my rebuild attests. I would also use 0.090" tin and have a sheet if needed. [/QUOTE]
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MIrrocraft Deep Fisherman - Deeeep scratch repair
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