monark 1464 help!!!

Help Support

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


May 31, 2011
Reaction score
hey guys, i have a 1980 monark 1464 that im converting, the transom was rotten so i ripped it out, but not sure on how to put one back in. i would appreciate any advice about this, im sure i will be hitting you guys up with lots of questions, this is my first conversion. Is there any other way to get a new transom in without cutting out those corner braces? It looks to me like im going to have to cut those out and cut off that top edge of the back where the aluminum curls down over the transom.


  • DSCN3046.jpg
    73 KB · Views: 1,827
  • DSCN3047.jpg
    64.6 KB · Views: 1,826
  • DSCN3048.jpg
    52.5 KB · Views: 1,826
You got a tough choice on that one. Those Monark's are tricky near the transom area. Could you possible pop the four rivets out of the side piece and slide it in that way?
Almost looks like you will need to pop the rivets on both side pieces like Ictalurs mentioned...AND remove the transome brace. If you do that you should be able to get the new piece in place, then just reinstall the side pieces and brace. I know it's easier to say than do, but if you reassemble with closed ended rivets and some 5200 you should be OK.
i dont know man, i think even if i took out those corner angles i wouldnt be able to get a new transom slid in there without removing the center floor brace and i really dont want to mess with that. im thinking my only other option is to cut off the top lip and have it welded back after the new transom is in. i really dont like either option but i guess i have to figure out the lesser of two evils.
I've got a 1982 MonArk 1652. My transom is in great shape and I'm no expert, but I'll tell you what I think from what I can see. Unless you can wield aluminum or have access to someone who can, leave the top bracing alone. That means the middle floor brace has to come out. In mine, I have two braces that are riveted in place - which means you can put it back yourself. You can see in your pics where the lower edge of the wood was. Cut you new wood to about the same height as the old one was. You don't want the wood to go all the way to the floor. If it does, it will be in the bilge, which means it will get wet more often and start to rot that much sooner.

Also in mine, the transom wood does not extend completely from side to side. Behind the side braces on either side, there's about a half inch gap between the edge of the wood and the side of the boat. For your width, measure the width of the corner braces, then cut your wood just slightly shorter than the width of one of the corner braces. For example, just thinking vertically, if the space for the transom is 64 inches wide and the width on one of the corner braces is one inch wide, you cut your transom wood just a hair under 63 inches wide (like 62 & 7/8'ths). Then, you can slide your transom wood behind one brace, lay it flat to the boat transom, then slide it back over to center it up. Then, just lift it straight up to fit behind the top lip. That will give you almost half an inch of wood to use to bolt the transom wood back into place. The most challenging part about the process will be taking the side angles into account.

You should be able to do the whole thing with a saw, a drill and a rivet gun. Just remember to take accurate measurements.
Another idea would be to use two thinner pieces of ply that may bend a tad to help you work in in there. Seal both pieces seperately and bolt through both. Unless your running a 30 HP, that should hold up just fine. You may still have to take one of the brackets off of the side.
yeah, i guess the easiest thing to do would be remove the floor brace. i planned on using steel flex on the bottom so i guess i dont have to worry about new rivets leaking. is that stuff awesome? how much is it to order?
I havent used my steelflex yet, so I'm no help there. The re-install the rivets do a search and find closed ended rivets. I just replaced about 25 rivets on my tin with closed ended pop rivets and put a bead of 5200 around the base before I installed the rivets. They sealed up tight as a drum...I'm still going to use the steelflex for added should be fine though....
no help?!?
I took all of the wood out because mine was completely rotten when I got it. I replaced it in two overlapping layers. I cut the pieces to fit, painted them, and then put them in with a solid piece across the top. Replaced the top metal piece. Good luck. This was a pain!


  • 20230117_144433.jpg
    169.7 KB · Views: 1
  • 20230410_200929.jpg
    177.3 KB · Views: 1
On my last one, the original transom didn't go all the way to the ends. About 3" short on both sides. So I made the first layer 6" short on one side and the other 6" short on the other side. I glued and screwed everything together, and everything turned out out rock-solid.

I recommend you use solid rivets where the brace goes through the bottom of the hull. They are stronger than any pop rivets and won't leak even if you don't have a fancy setup to expand them. Two hammers will work just fine, if you are careful and don't over-smash them.