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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Renovating a 2004 Tracker Pro175
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<blockquote data-quote="Johnny" data-source="post: 427549" data-attributes="member: 13599"><p>#1 - personally, i feel that the more drainage you can provide</p><p>will save you much grief in the future. IMO, internal vertical </p><p>sheet metal structures have nothing to do with water integrity.</p><p>so when a compartment is filled with pourable or spray-in </p><p>polyurethane foam, it is usually "watertight" with no drainage.</p><p>thus the accumulation of any water getting under the decking</p><p>will seap into, and be retained, by compromised foam when it dies of old age.</p><p>so the more drainage you can provide = the better.</p><p>holes at the bottom edges can only be an advantage.</p><p>(just don't drill into the hull itself).</p><p></p><p><strong>Edit:</strong> if there is evidence of standing water at one time, and the foam-filled</p><p>compartments are not watertight at the bottom seams, this could provide</p><p>an avenue of water penetrating - thus "maybe" saturating the bottom of the foam.</p><p>I like the idea that <em>lckstckn2smknbrls</em> mentioned of taking a core sample</p><p>with the pipe. If you can get hold of a piece of 1/2" rigid copper pipe, I would</p><p>run the pipe down the inside corners and remove that plug of foam. Then drill a hole</p><p>from the outside that can connects to the void you just created for drainage.</p><p></p><p>#2 - as for the batteries, I have very little experience in that area.</p><p>This issue has been addressed several times in past threads.</p><p>maybe someone else can provide you with that information.</p><p></p><p>good luck in your build !</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Johnny, post: 427549, member: 13599"] #1 - personally, i feel that the more drainage you can provide will save you much grief in the future. IMO, internal vertical sheet metal structures have nothing to do with water integrity. so when a compartment is filled with pourable or spray-in polyurethane foam, it is usually "watertight" with no drainage. thus the accumulation of any water getting under the decking will seap into, and be retained, by compromised foam when it dies of old age. so the more drainage you can provide = the better. holes at the bottom edges can only be an advantage. (just don't drill into the hull itself). [b]Edit:[/b] if there is evidence of standing water at one time, and the foam-filled compartments are not watertight at the bottom seams, this could provide an avenue of water penetrating - thus "maybe" saturating the bottom of the foam. I like the idea that [i]lckstckn2smknbrls[/i] mentioned of taking a core sample with the pipe. If you can get hold of a piece of 1/2" rigid copper pipe, I would run the pipe down the inside corners and remove that plug of foam. Then drill a hole from the outside that can connects to the void you just created for drainage. #2 - as for the batteries, I have very little experience in that area. This issue has been addressed several times in past threads. maybe someone else can provide you with that information. good luck in your build ! [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Renovating a 2004 Tracker Pro175
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