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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 394270" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>FWIW the best penetrating oil one can use is a homemade mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (ATF). </p><p></p><p>Recently “<u>Machinist Workshop Magazine</u>” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them. </p><p></p><p>This is what they came up with:</p><p></p><p>Nothing: 516 lbs</p><p>WD-40: 238 lbs;</p><p>PB Blaster: 214 lbs;</p><p>Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,</p><p>Kano Kroil: 106 lbs</p><p>(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50 mix): 50 lbs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 394270, member: 15636"] FWIW the best penetrating oil one can use is a homemade mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Recently “[u]Machinist Workshop Magazine[/u]” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them. This is what they came up with: Nothing: 516 lbs WD-40: 238 lbs; PB Blaster: 214 lbs; Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs, Kano Kroil: 106 lbs (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50 mix): 50 lbs. [/QUOTE]
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