12 foot v-hull aluminum mod

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Thanks! I saw guys using 2x2s and figured sideways would not only be fine but also be good for attaching the floor. Very stable! With the transom I figured I wanted all the support I could as the hull is so thin and welded. No flex makes me happy. I think rod holders and cup holders are tonight! LOL!
 
I forgot to mention that when I ran the boat I had to keep pressure by squeezing the bulb. As if it wasn't getting a steady flow of fuel. Well, I took it out for a run yesterday... started up on first pull like always. Then after 50 feet? Dead. Upon further review it wasn't the motor at all. The hose inside the tank including the barb that keeps it attached to the nozzle was somewhere in the bottom of my full gas tank! Must have been hanging by a thread last time it was out. Just enough to get gas in the line. Easy fix at least. I also am going to do a bow mount for a 30 lb minn kota this week.
 
I was thinking of maybe a 2x10 cut to sit flush with the inside just under the rails up fron the SS screws outside in to secure it. Carpet it. Then a bracket for the motor. I think it will support the weight fine and look nice. If I get an actual bow mount I just have to take the bracket off. I also already mounted my rod holders. When I get the bow done I'll take a few pics. Just need some more time! 2 jobs are a killer!
 
$3 fix. Works perfect! 1/4 inch hose barb and fuel line I already had installed in 5 seconds. And the first time I can remember the pressure being that good!
 

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Installed a bracket for a bow mount. Gonna do the reverse head minn kota. You can also see where I put the rod holders. The cooler will get bigger to. Just need a fish locator! Fishing a tourney next weekend, In a dIfferent boat. Maybe I can do work and win money for that.
 

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I've seen brackets made that way they flex back and forth pretty bad. Do yourself a favor - center a carriage bolt through the center of the topside of the block that can tie to an angled shelf bracket/brace support

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attach the backend to the deck away from the bace of the block and fasten it to the bolt using a butterfly nut. You'll be able to disconnect it to slip the TM bracket over, but you'll be able to tighten it down & keep the whole thing from swaying back & forth like this:

Sfy3Rz4l.jpg
 
Thanks for the input! I thought about that and put a small bracket on the opposite side to the top rail. Seems very sturdy. I'm going to run it after work tomorrow and do a speed test and see if the mount holds. If I need to I will add a bracket like the one you said for sure! If it works well I'll take a pic.
 
Don't think you'll need it - I'm sure if you added one to the topside of the rail you should be good. That's probably prettier too...
 
Well, the motor mount in the bow works perfect. So that's cool. Ran the boat Friday by myself and used phone gps. With wind and good waves I hit 12 mph. I can only imagine what a 9 horse could do for me! With the fiance Sunday it went far slower. The extra 125 pounds in the boat doesn't help but it was nice LOL! Even managed some fish! Fish finder and I'm good!
 

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Ordered a bigfoot trolling motor switch from bass pro and installed. Pretty sweet little switch. I was surprised how small it was. I was expecting it to be bigger. But it works well. Screwed into the floor and wires go through 2 small holes directly to my battery under the deck.
 

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The Big Foot switches tend to wear out in a in a year to two years because the rubber part that covers the contact will degrade due to sun & weather exposure. When the switch wears out replace it with a TH Marine footswitch ( they invented the momentary foot switch for trolling motors ), they do cost more ( around $25 ) but they will last a decade or more because they are fully sealed & weather resistant. Last year my dad upgraded to a Fortrex 101 Foot control for his bass boat & he gave me the two TH Marine foot switches that had been on the boat for close to a decade. They still work with no issues at all.
 

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