18' Lowe center console

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Jonboat Jerry said:
Nice layout, looks like most of the weight is in the center.
Mrtoler said:
I noticed after cleaning I took the water hose and really sprayed the inside down and most of the channels for drainage where plugged under the supports...I took the nozzle on the hose and flushed most of them out pretty easily but towards the reattach they are plugged tight and the design dosent really make sence either, but I can fix that. My other question is what is the main reason for steelflexing the bottom of the boat? I see alot of people do it but I've never really heard a reason why?
I had the same problem, the ribs on my boat were packed with oak leaves and I couldn't get them out.
I drilled a 1/4" hole in the top of each rib and inserted the nozzle of my compressor and blew the leaves out.
That also left a hole for any moisture to dry out. I have not sealed any areas on my boat because of corrosion.
Steel Flex makes the hull quieter and the lighter colors are cooler in the summer. M2C


Thumbs up on the steel flex. :)
 
Haven't been doing much lately other than drilling out all the old rivets that where holding the wood to the decks and floors and cleaning on it. But I have to say that it's still a long way from clean. I still need to remove the motor and all the wiring, so I can flip the boat over and see about stripping the paint so I can mark any spots that need welding. One big thing I'm worried about is the transom, I've never replaced a transom before on a boat like this and it looks kinda difficult. If anybody could give me some tips to start this process it would be great. The PO had the chains on the transom kinda taking some of the flex out of it and I don't want to go back to that, I'd like to do an all aluminum transom but it depends on what's involved. If I go wood I like the idea of adding plate on the inside and outside to help stiffen it up...anybody have any helpful info?
 
Still cleaning on this thing, I've been removing the foam that was in the rear compartments and on one side I found some bad news. While scraping the bottom of the compartment I ended up removing a blob of silicont that reviled a quarter sized hole :shock: now I guess I need more welding work done! I'm going to get some 2x4's tomorrow to build an engine stand so I can remove mine and start with removing my transom and the paint so I can get a plan on what needs to be welded. I was wondering what these things are for and if I should re install them after the transom job???

3590F018-C63C-4CB3-BE3E-EFFFDEF69CBC-27947-00002195396CC7E6.jpg
 
Looks like a step for climbing into the boat from the water that can also serve as a trim tab, although I'm not sure how you would adjust it.
 
Yep that is what it looks like to me also, a non-adjustable trim/step. If it were me I would lean them up and reuse them.
 
I built my engine stand today and removed the engine. I knew the transom was in bad shape but man it just turns to dust when you touch around the bolt holes! So now the next step is a new transom...

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Engine tucked away for now

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I'll most likely clean this up and sell it so I can get a hydraulic one since this one is a manuel.

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Something I've been thinking about is the tray in front of the transom, I wish it was gone because it just collects dirt and it would add a bit of deck/storage space can it be removed? You can see it in this pic

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Mrtoler said:
Haven't been doing much lately other than drilling out all the old rivets that where holding the wood to the decks and floors and cleaning on it. But I have to say that it's still a long way from clean. I still need to remove the motor and all the wiring, so I can flip the boat over and see about stripping the paint so I can mark any spots that need welding. One big thing I'm worried about is the transom, I've never replaced a transom before on a boat like this and it looks kinda difficult. If anybody could give me some tips to start this process it would be great. The PO had the chains on the transom kinda taking some of the flex out of it and I don't want to go back to that, I'd like to do an all aluminum transom but it depends on what's involved. If I go wood I like the idea of adding plate on the inside and outside to help stiffen it up...anybody have any helpful info?

Ryan,

My advice is, go for it. You’re a smart guy, I’ve seen your pontoon project and it was looking reel good. Ripe it apart, we can all figure it out together. I don’t know what I’m doing most of the time ether. I just figure it out as I go. :LOL2:
 
Thanks Dave, I did manage to get the boat off the trailer so I can start stripping all the paint and mark any spots that will need welding!
 
I made good progress today stripping the paint, I'd say it's about 80% stripped...

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88F15D46-866B-42BE-8CA7-365AF22F7342-29611-000023CCBFEDEE29.jpg


As of right now both sides the bow and transom all look like this

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I was looking on the net the other day and I ran across this console, the stand the guy built is exactly like what I'm wanting to do with mine in order to get a new larger gas tank under it

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Looks like you’re making some good progress Ryan,

That console with storage unit looks pretty cool, very similar to what I built for my pontoon boat. I’m going to raise my console up as well but the box is only going to be as long and wide as the base of the console.
 
LMAO I just noticed bigwaves avatar and mine are almost identical. Visor, camo paints, white shirt holding a big fish with a lateral line. Of course mine is bigger. :LOL2:
 
Country Dave said:
LMAO I just noticed bigwaves avatar and mine are almost identical. Visor, camo paints, white shirt holding a big fish with a lateral line. Of course mine is bigger. :LOL2:


Haha ya I just noticed that also...... THAT's WHAT SHE SAID!!!!! Lol
 
I worked almost all day on the boat, I got a lot of grunt work done. The whole bottom the transom and the bow are now 100% stripped

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I flipped the boat back over and got to work on the transom, I drilled out a few rivits and I had the tray over the back off and I got a good look at the transom DANG that thing is in bad shape. The previous owner did a bad job at patching some small leaks and the water that got in just got between the wood and the aluminum and also in-between the foam in the rear compartments. This caused som savere corrosion, Ill admit I had a few thought run through my head like why did I buy this junk! Since I'm in it this deap I'm going to bite the bullet and fix it RIGHT! I pulled out about half of the transom wood with my fingers that's how rotten it is.

C1D0C300-0ED0-4B73-95B9-245033A83A06-31133-000025A93B6A2A42.jpg


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I coulda got about 10 more years outta that transom whatcha think....lol
 
Country Dave said:
LMAO I just noticed bigwaves avatar and mine are almost identical. Visor, camo paints, white shirt holding a big fish with a lateral line. Of course mine is bigger. :LOL2:
That is pretty funny.....I caught my fish right behind the business that I work for....its a baby.......wait for march......I might just have to change my avitar....can't have you holding a bigger snook. [-X
 
I recently got back in touch with the guy that does all of my welding, Hes been working alot so I dident want to take up his lil bit of free time with my boat..but since he got a new position at work he's got more free time and is going to help me on my boat. After talking to him we decided it would be best to remove the rear storage boxes and build new ones that don't block the drainage channels, and to reveal all the aluminum that was exposed to the foam to check for corrosion...I've got the boxes removed and I'm working on cleaning the aluminum so it can be welded to. I've got to go buy some 1/4" plate and some square tubeing, to build the transom. It will be way stronger than it was, that's for sure

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You guys and your welding buddies make me so jealous. , IMO welding the framing on a tin is the best way to go. I also think that exposing all surfaces is a must no matter how good you might think things are under compartments and benches.
 
bigwave said:
You guys and your welding buddies make me so jealous. , IMO welding the framing on a tin is the best way to go. I also think that exposing all surfaces is a must no matter how good you might think things are under compartments and benches.

Wow Ryan looks like you’re making some good progress. =D> Bigwave nailed it as far as taking a good look around. I can’t believe I almost just installed an overlay on my transom without putting my eyes on it. I would have been farked. [-X
 
Ya I'm glad I removed those boxes, I never liked how they were built anyways. Now I'll be able to tie the rear casting deck to the transom and make it really strong and I'll build it so the drainage will be 110% open. The plan for the transom is cut 1/4" plate the exact size and weld it on the back of the transom, then build an extra beefy frame outta the square tubeing and weld it inside the transom where the wood was then weld another 1/4" plate on the inside of that. Then build new angle supports and tie it to a few cross members... Any suggestions on this? What would the max hp be for this kind of setup?
 
Mrtoler said:
Ya I'm glad I removed those boxes, I never liked how they were built anyways. Now I'll be able to tie the rear casting deck to the transom and make it really strong and I'll build it so the drainage will be 110% open. The plan for the transom is cut 1/4" plate the exact size and weld it on the back of the transom, then build an extra beefy frame outta the square tubeing and weld it inside the transom where the wood was then weld another 1/4" plate on the inside of that. Then build new angle supports and tie it to a few cross members... Any suggestions on this? What would the max hp be for this kind of setup?


Bro I say go big or stay home. :LOL2: No seriously with that set up you could probably run a 115 HP if you wanted. I would just research what the max rated HP was for that hull and bump it by like 30%
From the little bit of what I’ve seen,” mostly on this forum” and from the two tins I’ve owned the stock transoms leave a little bit to be desired. I know my new transom is at least twice what it was when it was new.

After repairing the original transom I backed it up with a full length “From the floor to the top of the transom” with a peace of 0.125. In front off that I have two pieces of ¾ inch 5ply hardwood bonded together and sealed up in fiberglass resin. In front of that I have another full sheet of 0.125. It’s all bolted together and I will add two supports from front of the transom to the floor.
 

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