Badbaggers SeaArk 1872 Modification & Restoration Project

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Next up, electrical. My favorite thing - NOT [-X

With that said, looking for suggestions and help. When it comes to electrical, I'm just straight up dumb as dirt :LOL2:
I'm going to have 4 batteries - 1 will be a 24V system strictly for the trolling motors and nothing else and they're deep cycle.
Next up will be an AGM battery, strictly for my Garmin GPS and the Lowrance HDS Touch - and again, nothing else. Lastly, cranking battery. I will connect the bilge pump and the electrical for the trim tabs here, boat electrical for lights etc. Basically, I have 2 electrical systems so I'll treat those separately. For the trolling motors, these will have there own charger Promariner Protournament 3 bank and I'll double up on one set of leads.

House and Cranking batteries will have their own charger and again, I'll double up on a set of leads from the charger. Speaking strictly for the charging and house battery, what kind of battery switch if any should be installed and secondly, should I install and ACR ? I've read a little, little enough to be dangerous :LOL2:

So spread the knowledge around lol. I think I've got the fuse box and separate line figured out with a buss box which I'll hook my electronics to. The battery switch would be strictly for the cranking and house battery. The two trolling motor batteries still hold a decent charge and not really worried if I run out of juice on those. Cranking and house batteries will be new. Sears Platinum AGM Group 31 and a Deka Cranking Battery Group 27.

Thanks
 
Bagger
I've been watching your build on here and it looks great.( I saw some other stuff on the Pensacola Fishing Forum.)
Anyway With all the work your doing i thought you might want to add some more Bling. This platform was on a 2072 Sea Ark so it should bolt right on your 1872.
The only reason I'm not keeping it, beside I pole from the front of the boat is it won't fit in my garage. I'm asking 500.00 and i'm in Mobile Al.


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The trolling motor battery setup is easy. I’m not sure I totally understand what you want to do with the other batteries/system. You’re going to want to have both of you’re 12 volt trolling motor batteries up front and next to each other. They have to be side by side because you’re going to make a short cable that goes between them. One short cable from one of the positive battery post to the negative post of the other battery.

Now you have a 24volt battery. You use the empty +Positive post from one battery and the empty –Negative post from the other battery and that goes to your breaker/on off switch for the trolling motor. These batteries DO NOT get connected to anything else.
You also want them close to the trolling motor so you don’t have to have a long wiring run to the trolling motor. The extra weight up front isn’t going to hurt anything. Let me know what you’re trying to accomplish with your other batteries and I will see if I can help.
 
Hey thanks Dave - TM batteries are cake. They're actually always charging and are at this moment. What I was trying to get right is the proper battery switch (Blue Sea) and the ACR so when the motor is running the alternator from the engine is charging the starting and house batteries. The boat will technically have two electrical systems - 24V for the TM and a 12V for everything else. I finally got it straight after a LOT of asking questions on THT and got my answers from an engineer there. I ordered two Blue Seas Switches (1 for 24V setup and a 2nd 4 way switch for the 12V system) and an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) so the motor will charge the cranking and house batteries so no matter what, I'll always have at least one solid battery for starting if one dies on me. Then figuring out the proper AWG size for the electronics was another issue - Amp draw is fairly low but will add the trim tabs to that circuit and I couldn't find out the draw amperage wise. None the less, I went with 10 AWG wire from the house battery to the Blue Seas Fuse Box and then I'll hook up my Garmin GPS and the Lowrance HDS Touch to that. Once that mess is straight, I'll wire up the VHF to the fuse block. Took a LOT of reading and asking questions. Since engine output is 12V, cannot charge the 24V setup while I run but so be it.

Now I KNOW why I don't like electricity :LOL2:

I'm a **** Private Investigator not a freaking marine electrician #-o
 
Yes you have to look at it like that,

The TM batteries are a standalone and they will not be hooked up to the rest of the electrical system in anyway. I just keep my charger/tender on them when not in use.

As far as the rest of the system yes a good battery switch is a must. I’ve always had good luck with Perko switches. You really don’t have to isolate the component that’s what the battery switch is for. Battery switch to the ALL position when engine is running and pick between position 1 and 2 when ENG is off. This way you always have a fresh battery when cracking. When cracking, back to the ALL position.

I know a lot f guys install onboard chargers. I’m not one of them. :LOL2: what’s the point? You’re never going to use the charger when you’re using the boat unless you have a really really long extension cord. :LOL2:
I just set my charger/tender on the floor hook up my leads/alligator clips and that’s it. I just don’t see the point. You’re adding extra weight to the boat and taking up space. Not to mention that charger is going to last a lot longer in your garage were there’s no salt water ETC Just my two cents. I will say this though keeping the tender on and not letting the batters go up and down really extends the battery life.
 
Thanks Dave and yes, the **** chargers are WEIGHT. Both of mine total 18 lbs. Thanks god the Etec is LIGHT at 249 lbs.
 
The TM batteries are a standalone and they will not be hooked up to the rest of the electrical system in anyway. I just keep my charger/tender on them when not in use.

The boat will technically have two electrical systems - 24V for the TM and a 12V for everything else


Hi guys, Slight hi-jack in progress.

I, too, am researching trolling motors and battery banks for my Seaark 2072.

What about taking a page from the Bowfishing crowd, they carry the 1000-2000 watt Hondas/Yamaha's for running lights, ect.

Assuming one had room, a small genny hooked to a 2 bank charger could keep the TM batteries charged as needed for a reasonable amount of gas and generator run time. Weight-wise, the genny would equal about 1 decent battery.

I've been thinking about this for restricted lakes (10 hp and under).

Fred
 
While I'm waiting on the Ark, a few more things are showing up including the jack plate. Bob's Action Jackplate with a 6" set back and the pump is internal so no precious room taken up by the external pump. Room is going to be at a premium :LOL2:
 

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That's an understatement! I should be heading back down to pick the boat up on Wednesday the 10th. He's taking the time to do it right and one part of me wants to see photos, the other part doesn't lol. Last I checked, they were going to start to completely strip the boat down on Monday. I took a LOT off the boat but they still want to strip it down more. He wasn't sure if they were going to paint the exterior first or linex the interior first. Regardless, it's one big azz boat to flip to paint the bottom etc. Think I'll check in for an update this morning. Exterior going to be white alumigrip, black rub rails and off white interior Linex 650.
 
Brother it’s going to be sweet.

I know it’s got to be tuff waiting. I so wish I would have Linexed the inside of mine instead of paint. I know the first time it gets scratched I’m going to be pissed. The outside I’m good, the steelflex and paint is fine. I’m going to use a Linex/Herculiner application on my floor.

The front and rear decks are going to have Seadek on them so the only thing on the inside that is really only going to have paint on it is, the sides. Maybe some rod holders on both sides to keep stuff away from the paint. Brother I can’t way to see your boat when you get it back. You’re doing it right. :mrgreen:
 
Thanks Dave and like you, I'm anal as hell and believe firmly in do it once, do it right. Cutting corners just does NOT work in the end, been there done that lol. I wouldn't sweat the paint since it's only on the sides, not by a long shot. The SeaDeck is some sweet stuff to say the least and I'll be using a bit of it myself on da beast. Rod holder's is something I'm really stuck on. I KNOW what I want BUT, just cannot find it. I want them out of starboard and in black.
The ribs on the boat are about 3" wide give or take. The pic below is close BUT NO CIGAR. Gunnels are 24" and I want a rod holder for at least 3 if not 4 rods and I'll mount em up on the port and starboard sides. We routinely run with 6 rods, at time more.
 

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Bro try Boatoutfitters.com there right here in Orlando. I’ve used them before and very happy with them. If they don’t have what you are looking or they can probably make it.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/custom_tackle_units.html
 
Country Dave said:
Bro try Boatoutfitters.com there right here in Orlando. I’ve used them before and very happy with them. If they don’t have what you are looking or they can probably make it.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/custom_tackle_units.html

Thanks Dave, I'll have a look.
 
Dave, Boatoutfitters has JUST what I need - THANKS =D> Spoke with Brian at Linex. Barring any unforeseen issues I am planning to pick up the boat in Sarasota on the 11th so it should be ready. They should have most of it boat done by this time next Friday. One part of me wants to see progress pics but the other half says NO, wait.

Going in to pay the final $100 on the Etec tomorrow. All of the rigging is in, SS Prop etc. Going with a 4 blade 13 x 17 Rogue which should put me very close.
Figured I'd hold off till the very last day on paying the engine so I get the benefit of the 5 year warranty and every day of it :LOL2:
 
Badbagger said:
Dave, Boatoutfitters has JUST what I need - THANKS =D> Spoke with Brian at Linex. Barring any unforeseen issues I am planning to pick up the boat in Sarasota on the 11th so it should be ready. They should have most of it boat done by this time next Friday. One part of me wants to see progress pics but the other half says NO, wait.

Going in to pay the final $100 on the Etec tomorrow. All of the rigging is in, SS Prop etc. Going with a 4 blade 13 x 17 Rogue which should put me very close.
Figured I'd hold off till the very last day on paying the engine so I get the benefit of the 5 year warranty and every day of it :LOL2:

Hey man that’s cool, happy to help.

So two weeks and you get your girl back. I would say just wait until you get there to see it. Just don’t have a heart attack 5 miles from the shop because the anticipation is too much. :LOL2: Good call on the warranty. I think that’s a good starting point for prop selection. I have a Solas SS 13x19 three blade but I’m going to go with a four blade. I want a small diameter with a bunch of pitch. Maybe 12x22.
You’re boat is going to top shelf fo show. =D>
 
Hey thanks Dave and yes, two weeks and a counting lol. Just paid the engine off and I've got a garage, office and living room full of parts ready to install with more on the way. So in a hurry up and wait state. A fuse box, some wiring and my trim tabs are on the way and that'll about do it with the exception of some custom starboard work I"m waiting to hear back on as well as a piece of SeaDeck for the front of the console with the name of the boat on it.

I'll be flat out busy as hell for about a week getting it ready once the boat is back at the house. Then it's time to FISH :mrgreen:
 

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