My first Aluminum Boat (I am ready to try motor but have ?)

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It provides strength in all the above mentioned..... but as you say your seat was moveable, and of little structural strength than I would not be too concerned. The box's will add both strength and some needed storage though 8)
 
Ok I am ready to try and start my motor today So I could use some help with any suggestions

I have a 1972 Johnson 6hp motor that I want to try and start.
I am new to the boating life so this is my first gas motor I fished the last 2 years in a buster boat with a trolling motor. ok so I got a 50 gallon drum from a friend of mine to put the motor in and fill with water since the motor doesnt have spot to hook up water hose.... And this is about were im ready for suggestions. The guy I got it from SAYS it ran last summer but you know how that goes. Kind of gave me a run down on starting it and said it has a real touchy idel spot.

Should I pull the carb and clean it out?

Do I need to check an oil level?

Is there an easy way to tell if water pump is working once it starts?
 
Gumby said:
Ok I am ready to try and start my motor today So I could use some help with any suggestions

I have a 1972 Johnson 6hp motor that I want to try and start.
I am new to the boating life so this is my first gas motor I fished the last 2 years in a buster boat with a trolling motor. ok so I got a 50 gallon drum from a friend of mine to put the motor in and fill with water since the motor doesnt have spot to hook up water hose.... And this is about were im ready for suggestions. The guy I got it from SAYS it ran last summer but you know how that goes. Kind of gave me a run down on starting it and said it has a real touchy idel spot.

Should I pull the carb and clean it out?

Do I need to check an oil level?

Is there an easy way to tell if water pump is working once it starts?

I am not an expert, but since no one else is jumping up....
There should be a pee hole that the "hot" water comes out of after it cools the motor. My Mariner has it located just under the motor on the back. Locate it and as soon as the motor starts, see that it is squirting good. If not, shut 'er down till you put in a new impeller. Impellers aren't expensive, I would replace it soon just because you don't know how old this one is, and you wouldn't want it going out on a fishing trip...

Oh, don't use ether to start it, you need lubrication through the fuel and starting fluid washes oil away. If you can't get it started with fresh fuel, you may need to pull the carb.

EDIT: I just saw your question about the oil. I do believe that you will find that there is no oil fill to check, and this motor requires oil mixed in the gas!!
 
Ok so I made a trip to Academy and picked up some oil for the fuel, some lower end gear oil, a new fuel line and primer bulb.

I looked on the side of the motor and noticed drain & fill plugs. Im guessing you drain and fill it back up like a rear end on a truck. Just fill it till it comes out the top plug.

Is there an air filter on a boat motor mine doesnt have one. Just want to make sure I dont need to buy one.
 
I set the motor up on the barrel and started filling with water. Pulled the cover off and pulled the plugs out to check for spark and the plugs where reall oily smelt burnt Which maybe due to oil in fuel since it is a two stroke but maybe not. I only got spark out of one plug wire I swapped the plugs and got same result on side is not giving me fire. Could it be points or condenser type thing if so do I access them from under the flywheel looking thing on top? Does it have to be clocked a certain position befor pulling and assuming its need to go back on at same position to be timed correct.
 
Gumby said:
I set the motor up on the barrel and started filling with water. Pulled the cover off and pulled the plugs out to check for spark and the plugs where reall oily smelt burnt Which maybe due to oil in fuel since it is a two stroke but maybe not. I only got spark out of one plug wire I swapped the plugs and got same result on side is not giving me fire. Could it be points or condenser type thing if so do I access them from under the flywheel looking thing on top? Does it have to be clocked a certain position befor pulling and assuming its need to go back on at same position to be timed correct.

It could be the points or a bad ignition coil. The points and condensers are under the flywheel and you'll need a puller to get it off. Usually you use a steering wheel type puller that threads into the threaded holes in the top of the flywheel, NOT the claw type puller for pulleys. Timing is set mainly by the throttle linkage so it shouldn't be an issue unless the previous owner jacked with it. The flywheel is keyed so you can't put it in wrong. One bad thing about a point type system is the point gap has to be right on because the dwell angle and timing are dependent on it. NAPA sells a solid state replacement for points that I've heard works pretty well and is reasonably priced.

Checking the spark with a spark plug will tell you if you have a spark but it doesn't tell you how good the spark really is. I recommend an adjustable spark gap tester
https://www.autozone.com/autozone/c...le+ignition+spark+tester&brandName=Great+Neck
A good coil should be able to jump at least a 5/8" gap with a good hot spark
 
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