YamahaC40Guy
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Well, finally got some new photos of the boat yesterday. They always look better when in the water, so here goes;
First off, the boat at the dock. This shot shows all the changes~rear deck, trolling motor and rod rack;
Next, the bow. I built a plate from marine ply, bolted it to the front. TO that, I bolted a Minn Kota quick release plate and then the motor itself. The socket for plugging it in is screwed to the bottom of this, facing the stern of course. Also visible is the anchor pulley/bracket. There was a thread about these lately. I really like it, but would change one thing about the way I mounted it. They require that you pull the rope straight back as it turns out. On my boat, to do that, you need to be kneeling on the front deck. To stand and do it, you have to pull back at about knee-level. I may make a ramp-like bracket to mount it to, so that it angles down towards the water. This would (should) alleviate the problem. Very robust thing for it's size/price;
I had to remove the nav. lights from the bow, and replace them with these separate, side-mounted jobs. At $48 each (CAD$) that hurt a little. Anyhow, I had to get the power from deck level up to the nose, and found a cool way to do it. (I think, lol) Here is a photo of my new Richter anchor. Love this thing BTW. https://www.richteranchors.com/ In it, you can see an opaque tube running up the side just past it. This flat/plastic tube came off my old dishwasher. It is bolted to the side, on rubber stand-offs to prevent any buzzing/rattling sound. As a good deal of power is running up from the stern to power the MK, I wanted it protected from the anchor. This worked great, and was free. Even the color matched, calcium stains and all! lol;
Next, the rear casting deck;
If you remember my original post, is shows the boat without it;
Well, the idea was to extend the rear bench forward to allow for the 2-battery 24 volt system. I designed/fabricated HDPP (High Density Polypropylene) panels that mirror the shape of the bench, then had 2 stainless steel battery trays fabricated. These are bolted between them. The top is a pc. of marine ply. that has been finished with some mystery coating that is supposed to be weather-proof. (we'll see, lol) I trusted a finisher I know~so far so good. It is screwed in place. All hardware SS.
This is a front/port view of it. You can see the battery trays through the material, latches are anti-vibration rubber;
Both hatches open;
Close-up of the left side. Tackle trays, charger, MK circuit breaker and Minn Kota foot pedal all packed in there;
Lastly, the rod rack. I bought 2 packs of those Berkley rod racks, and cut a bracket to take 2 of the bottoms, and one of the upper, locking pcs. They were wider than my console was deep, so you can see how I dealt with that. Also, the "T" shape cut out of it is to simply reduce weight. The HDPP is heavy stuff! It holds any of my spinning, or fly rods.
Thanks for looking and please, if you have any input/ideas...fire away! I'm in this to learn!
Cheers,
Rob
First off, the boat at the dock. This shot shows all the changes~rear deck, trolling motor and rod rack;
Next, the bow. I built a plate from marine ply, bolted it to the front. TO that, I bolted a Minn Kota quick release plate and then the motor itself. The socket for plugging it in is screwed to the bottom of this, facing the stern of course. Also visible is the anchor pulley/bracket. There was a thread about these lately. I really like it, but would change one thing about the way I mounted it. They require that you pull the rope straight back as it turns out. On my boat, to do that, you need to be kneeling on the front deck. To stand and do it, you have to pull back at about knee-level. I may make a ramp-like bracket to mount it to, so that it angles down towards the water. This would (should) alleviate the problem. Very robust thing for it's size/price;
I had to remove the nav. lights from the bow, and replace them with these separate, side-mounted jobs. At $48 each (CAD$) that hurt a little. Anyhow, I had to get the power from deck level up to the nose, and found a cool way to do it. (I think, lol) Here is a photo of my new Richter anchor. Love this thing BTW. https://www.richteranchors.com/ In it, you can see an opaque tube running up the side just past it. This flat/plastic tube came off my old dishwasher. It is bolted to the side, on rubber stand-offs to prevent any buzzing/rattling sound. As a good deal of power is running up from the stern to power the MK, I wanted it protected from the anchor. This worked great, and was free. Even the color matched, calcium stains and all! lol;
Next, the rear casting deck;
If you remember my original post, is shows the boat without it;
Well, the idea was to extend the rear bench forward to allow for the 2-battery 24 volt system. I designed/fabricated HDPP (High Density Polypropylene) panels that mirror the shape of the bench, then had 2 stainless steel battery trays fabricated. These are bolted between them. The top is a pc. of marine ply. that has been finished with some mystery coating that is supposed to be weather-proof. (we'll see, lol) I trusted a finisher I know~so far so good. It is screwed in place. All hardware SS.
This is a front/port view of it. You can see the battery trays through the material, latches are anti-vibration rubber;
Both hatches open;
Close-up of the left side. Tackle trays, charger, MK circuit breaker and Minn Kota foot pedal all packed in there;
Lastly, the rod rack. I bought 2 packs of those Berkley rod racks, and cut a bracket to take 2 of the bottoms, and one of the upper, locking pcs. They were wider than my console was deep, so you can see how I dealt with that. Also, the "T" shape cut out of it is to simply reduce weight. The HDPP is heavy stuff! It holds any of my spinning, or fly rods.
Thanks for looking and please, if you have any input/ideas...fire away! I'm in this to learn!
Cheers,
Rob