Tin boat, salt water, electric motor

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squid121

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Aug 18, 2013
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Warren, Rhode Island. USA
Hi folks, new to this forum, so would like to pick some brains.

So I have a 2001 Sylvan bare bones utility boat, 16.5' fishing machine. I use a 40 hp rude to push it but spend most of the time with an electric trolling motor, in salt water. This has taken its toll on the bottom and the transom in the form of pitting, lots of it and some are deep. Also I am very rough on all my gear and the sea is unforgiving. two of the ribs have cracked leaving the bottom bouncy which I have no doubt will get me killed since I fish mostly at night. Ive decided to fix her up before she becomes structure. Also she is leaking pretty good.

I want to do the bottom with the steel flex both inside and out, but I want to reinforce especially where the ribs are. ( split right in the middle)
Im looking for ideas from anyone who has had this kind of bottom damage. I will post some pics tomorrow. Thanks
 
My 14' sylvan had a cracked rib, just off center. I used a 1/4" thick by 1.5" diameter aluminum pipe cut lenghthwise. I squeezed the rib together, layed the pipe on to extending well past the crack, drilled and pop riveted 3/16" rivets. It has not come apart, even after some really rough waves and bounces.
IMG_00000031.jpg
 
I got it at a local metal 'supermarket' through my school that I teach at. I had the tech at the school cut it on a metal bandsaw, but the metal supermarket would have cut it for free (1st cut is free). Ive said it before, most local high schools with a shop will do 'projects' for the community, if you just ask!
 
13yo hull used hard in salt water with corrosion and cracked ribs. What is your expected lifetime for this hull?

Seems you are closer to a new boat than a refurb.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326552#p326552 said:
Ranchero50 » 19 Aug 2013, 08:31[/url]"]13yo hull used hard in salt water with corrosion and cracked ribs. What is your expected lifetime for this hull?

Seems you are closer to a new boat than a refurb.



agreed...but i did get a chuckle... i have a big picture of someone in a few months posting on here saying he scored a deal on craiglsist and looking for ideas how to fix his "new" boat with corrosion issues and cracked ribs...... and low and behold, it will be this boat!! #-o #-o
 
Well when I bought it I liked the Sylvan because they were using a heavier gauge aluminium, I knew I would beat the crap out of it, but I thought it would hold up a little better. right now theres no extra cash for a new hull and I wont buy used. The cracked ribs are fixable and I want to epoxy inside and out. at the bare minimum it will buy me a couple more years. Did I mention I love the boat, very deep sides and can handle fairly big seas.
 
Where you are using the boat I would WELD - not pop rivet or anything like that for a rib. Also, are you storing the boat in the water? You may need to figure out why the corrosion - it should not be dong that.




Hmmm - night time and RI, When can I get out and fish with you? I will bring the eels! BIG eels!


Will also help figure out how to fix the boat - maybe drag my Sylvan as well :)
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326672#p326672 said:
squid121 » Yesterday, 22:30[/url]"]Hey Maestro, was that 1.5" ID or OD

OD... There's a good reason why i didnt get it welded, but in a nutshell, 2 different aluminum fabricators/welders looked at it and said a weld would break again faster than a mechanical connection. They both suggested the riveting and both said not to expect it to last forever, but long enough to get a few years of use, and longer than a weld. So far, so good and no loosening of the rivets. BUT, im not using it in open seawater, so maybe that is an issue?
 
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