Water in bearings

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BigTerp

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I keep getting water in my driver side trailer bearings. I replaced bearings and seals with Timken bearings back in September because of the same issue. I popped the dust cap off yesterday to find a mess of water and rust (worse than in September). Passenger side is fine. The inner bearing is shot which leads me to believe its a grease seal issue. Just trying to figure out if the water is getting in between the seal and the hub or the seal and the spindle. The spindle is in great shape except for the area where the grease seal would seat. It has some rust and is a little rough. I took some steel wool and some very fine wet/dry sandpaper to it when I replaced the bearings to smooth it out. The hub has a few nicks in the area where the grease seal seats as well. Just need to figure out if I need to replace my hub, spindle or both? Can a spindle be replaced? Or would it be best to get a whole new axle if the spindle is shot?

Here are some pics. Let me know what you guys think.

Grease seal area of spindle.
IMG_20150621_160950_zpsnm8ueyyw.jpg


IMG_20150621_160926_zps3b2jcc9d.jpg


You can see the rest of the spindle is in great shape.
IMG_20150621_160935_zpsg0mwea2t.jpg


Hub. You can see the one nick where the grease seal would seat. There are probably 4-5 nicks around the grease seal area. You can also see the inner race is shot. These were replaced back in September and look much worse now than the ones I replaced.
IMG_20150621_161205_zpsjhtrv9od.jpg
 
There is an item called Speedi-Sleeve. You could install one and that would give you a smooth surface for your seal to ride on. That would be my first option if it were me to keep from having to replace the spindle if you don't have to. I would coat the outer diameter of the seal with a very light coating of silicone to insure a seal between the seal and the hub before installing the seal in the hub.
 
KMixson said:
There is an item called Speedi-Sleeve. You could install one and that would give you a smooth surface for your seal to ride on. That would be my first option if it were me to keep from having to replace the spindle if you don't have to. I would coat the outer diameter of the seal with a very light coating of silicone to insure a seal between the seal and the hub before installing the seal in the hub.
I second the Speedi-Sleeve.
 
I have the ability to cut off the old spindle and weld on a new one. Looks like the spindle I would need is around $20. Would probably get a new hub assembly while I'm at it for another $25. But how difficult of a job is replacing a spindle? I would think the hardest part would be getting the new spindle absolutely square with the old axle. And looking at my old axle it doesn't look like there is much room for welding on a new spindle. A new spindle comes with a 4" stud. Looks like my old one is welded on with only about 1" of the stud.
 
Using emery cloth, sand paper get the spindle as smooth as you can where the seal rides. Take very good measurements with a micrometer and see if there is a new seal with an inner measurement that's a better fit.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Using emery cloth, sand paper get the spindle as smooth as you can where the seal rides. Take very good measurements with a micrometer and see if there is a new seal with an inner measurement that's a better fit.

Thanks. After going back and forth on options, this is exactly what I've decided to do. I've already ordered a new bearing kit that comes with a double lip seal. After I clean the spindle as best I can, I'll see what it measures at.
 
Also if you set the depth of the seal a little deeper in the hub it will ride on a different spot on the spindle.
 
Cleaned up the seal area of my spindle this evening. Took a fine wire brush on my drill and gently knocked off most of the corrosion and rust. Then went through a few grits of emery cloth and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and smoothed it out and polished it up the best I could. Definitely looks much better. Measurement with a micro meter was less than 1.230 in several spots. Was as small as 1.224 in a spot or two. The seal for my spindle is 1.249. Should I get a smaller seal? I put a seal I had in the shed on it and it didn't seam very snug. Figure that's where the water intrusion is coming from.

Before
IMG_20150621_160950_zpsnm8ueyyw.jpg


IMG_20150621_160926_zps3b2jcc9d.jpg


After wire wheel and emery cloth
IMG_20150622_184256_zpsb6ijlba0.jpg


After 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and 0000 steel wool. You can see it's a bit pitted on each end of where the seal would ride.
IMG_20150622_194713_zpskdvioy61.jpg
 
BigTerp said:
I have the ability to cut off the old spindle and weld on a new one. Looks like the spindle I would need is around $20. Would probably get a new hub assembly while I'm at it for another $25. But how difficult of a job is replacing a spindle? I would think the hardest part would be getting the new spindle absolutely square with the old axle. And looking at my old axle it doesn't look like there is much room for welding on a new spindle. A new spindle comes with a 4" stud. Looks like my old one is welded on with only about 1" of the stud.
That 4" stud fits in the square axle tube I believe. Pull to the length stickin out you want. Tack welds will probably try to pull it one way or the other while you align it enough to run your beads.
Vacuum created by running hot hub into water. Any void under seal allows flow, so the spindle where seal rides needs need to be dressed real fine..A mirror finish is asking a lot, but should be close to it, with no voids.
 
Look on line for Chicago raw hide or skf seals and see what's available.
 
Thanks guys. Can't find any grease seals that would be smaller than the 1.249" standard one. Have been looking at the speedi-sleeves. Looks like part #99141 should work. What do you all think?

https://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/chicago-rawhide/speedi-sleeve-catalog/11940-66677.html
 
Speedi sleeve looks like a good option - not sure what a powdered epoxy is, something else to hunt down I guess, but it seems to replace the wear surface entirely while being epoxied in place to the original shaft & using the epoxy to fill the old voids between it & the shaft.

Added that one to the favorites list for the day that I'll need it.
 
BigTerp said:
Ordered the #99141 Speedi-Sleeve today. If the sleeve doesn't fit real snug, what should I use to glue it in place? I've seen everything from red loctite to RTV silicone.

Only one I ever used was on a crankshaft on an engine I rebuilt. I used red locktite. If you got the right size, it has to be driven into place and will fit really tight.
 
safetyfast said:
BigTerp said:
Ordered the #99141 Speedi-Sleeve today. If the sleeve doesn't fit real snug, what should I use to glue it in place? I've seen everything from red loctite to RTV silicone.

Only one I ever used was on a crankshaft on an engine I rebuilt. I used red locktite. If you got the right size, it has to be driven into place and will fit really tight.

Thanks!!

Should be the correct size. My spindle is the 1.240" nominal one, but when I measured it after cleaning it up it measures from 1.224-1.230. I ordered the sleeve for the 1.240 shaft size which fit's shaft's of 1.237-1.243. The next size down was 1.216-1.222 and for a nominal shaft size of 1.219. Figured that would be too small.
 
in the manufacturer's pamphlet it discusses a powdered epoxy...not quite sure what that is, but it's intended to be used as a filler as much as an adhesive. Not sure if loctite would perform the same function
 
onthewater102 said:
in the manufacturer's pamphlet it discusses a powdered epoxy...not quite sure what that is, but it's intended to be used as a filler as much as an adhesive. Not sure if loctite would perform the same function
Loctite is a brand that has lots of products. I'm sure there is one that should work.
 

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