Winter covering

[FuzzyGrub]

FWIW I cover a few boats, for myself and others and never use expen$ive shrink 'crap'. I use and recommend as TALL and STEEP an A-Frame structure as possible, even if you need a step ladder and helper to set it in place. Done once - done right!

I have used PVC and strapping (main beam of 2 pieces with 6" piece in-between every 4'). That 'space' allows the vertical pieces to be hung in-between. Regardless of frame material, the frame must be tied securely to the cleats or other features of the hull to prevent it from flying up, if wind gets under it, which can cause PVC frames to come apart. Never had an issue or breakage with a wood frame and my personal frame is now 5-seasons old and will go on to its 6th use this late Fall.

I use only Sigman brand heavy duty tarps in white color. I'll get 3-4 years out of them, or more, reversing it each Winter. Simple way ... put a '1' on the corners of the longest sides on one end and a '2' on the other ends. again on each side. Since I cover in the late Fall, this year '2023' the ends with the '1' go towards the bow. Rotating the tarps causes less wear and stress points.

Co$ts maybe $40 for the frame or $8 or less per season, and $60 for the tarp, so call it $20 'worst case' per season, for a grand total of $28 (plus need rope) to cover the boat. That's much better than $15 per foot for shrink 'crap', LOL!

Concept picture attached. Again, steep = good!

View attachment 116937

Just brought the pontoon home from camp and will be making a similar frame and tarp shelter for it.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

FWIW I cover a few boats, for myself and others and never use expen$ive shrink 'crap'. I use and recommend as TALL and STEEP an A-Frame structure as possible, even if you need a step ladder and helper to set it in place. Done once - done right!

I have used PVC and strapping (main beam of 2 pieces with 6" piece in-between every 4'). That 'space' allows the vertical pieces to be hung in-between. Regardless of frame material, the frame must be tied securely to the cleats or other features of the hull to prevent it from flying up, if wind gets under it, which can cause PVC frames to come apart. Never had an issue or breakage with a wood frame and my personal frame is now 5-seasons old and will go on to its 6th use this late Fall.

I use only Sigman brand heavy duty tarps in white color. I'll get 3-4 years out of them, or more, reversing it each Winter. Simple way ... put a '1' on the corners of the longest sides on one end and a '2' on the other ends. again on each side. Since I cover in the late Fall, this year '2023' the ends with the '1' go towards the bow. Rotating the tarps causes less wear and stress points.

Co$ts maybe $40 for the frame or $8 or less per season, and $60 for the tarp, so call it $20 'worst case' per season, for a grand total of $28 (plus need rope) to cover the boat. That's much better than $15 per foot for shrink 'crap', LOL!

Concept picture attached. Again, steep = good!

View attachment 116937

OK, started to look at some details for mine. I plan on using a 20' X 30' tarp which will cover over the motor to infront of the winch. The 20' will allow for a 7.5' height (from floor), and will have about 1' below the top of the deck on each side. The fencing is 30" high on mine. So above the fencing forms a 60" height by 50" width. So greater than a 45 deree angle, but will have to reiew trig to figure that out.

PVC has gone up considerablly since the last time I purchased! Was thinking of using for main beam and verticle supports. The verticle supports maybe 2x4s now. Still working on that. Supports will need a base to prevent perminent compresing the cushioned vinyl floor. Probably some scrap 1/2 ext plywood I have laying around.

For the latteral supports, do not want to fasten to the fencing and put stress on that. I have three heavy duty ratchet straps. They have 2" wide webing X 23' length. My thought is to loop around the main beam. There would be one on each end where there is open deck. Toward the middle, I can place the third one. With the two side by side captains chairs, I can run the webing under the fencing there.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

This is what I'm thinking of for main beam and uprights. It should allow upright placement flexibility. I think I would pin the 10' pvc to coupler, vs perminent glue. I'd prefer to put verticle supports at the couplers, but that would lend to supports every 5' vs 4'. Maybe the sch 40 can take it? Thoughts appreciated.

 

[airshot]

You might consider adding a screw or two on your slip connections of pvc pipe, rather than glue...you might want to " redesign" your framework from time to time and permanent glue can add to the pipe cost!! Do consider a decent truck tarp over an inexpensive tarp, these things are tough, strong and last for many, many years, easily reusuable for years.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

You might consider adding a screw or two on your slip connections of pvc pipe, rather than glue...you might want to " redesign" your framework from time to time and permanent glue can add to the pipe cost!! Do consider a decent truck tarp over an inexpensive tarp, these things are tough, strong and last for many, many years, easily reusuable for years.

Yes, no glue but will pin them in some manor, so it won't tear the tarp.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Getting there. I need to shift the tarp a foot down to cover the motor and some other minor things. We got our first taste of winter, yesterday. Snow build-up should not be an issue. The frame seems very secure but needs to be wind tested.

 

[airshot]

Put a heater and plumbing in there and rent it out for the winter, looks very good !!

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Put a heater and plumbing in there and rent it out for the winter, looks very good !!

With my luck, a bunch of mice and squirrels would book it for the season!

It is nice to be able to still do work while it’s covered.

 

[airshot]

With my luck, a bunch of mice and squirrels would book it for the season!

It is nice to be able to still do work while it’s covered.

Make sure there deposit is high to cover any damage !!