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Stumpalump said:
Shaugh said:
It's surprising that somebody in the boat business hasn't picked up on the idea for marketing an affordable T top system. It's as steady as you want to make it. There's fittings for 1.5" conduit too... You could probably make a single upright with that and be able to go 40 mph.. As long as you reinforce the footpads sufficiently there should be no limit to the possibilities.
T-Tops are only $255 to $309 with free shipping unless you want 1 1/2" aluminum that is strong enough to mount radios, lights, antenna and rod holders. https://www.ebay.com/bhp/boat-t-top
I live in AZ and we get constant year round sun. I wear a full brim Tilly hat and long sleeves shits even if it's 113 degrees. Exposed skin is too hot but you can hang out all day in the sun if it's not hitting your skin. Buy the good ones at REI, Eddie Bowers, Cabellas ect. Keul brand of pants from REI are what I use for long pants at the sand dunes or long days in the sun. All are pricy but I will actually wear it. The bass tards here were ski masks to cover their whole heads. The aresol sun screen is only expensive until you use it. Cream is grease. Aresol dries to nothing. I only use it on my legs with shorts. Feet get covered by these. https://www.astraldesigns.com/shop/footwear/unisex/rassler-unisex Most other water shoes are a plastic gimmick. "There is no such thing as bad weather only bad gear". Sun gear is as important as having Gortex. But yes there are fools that don't buy it either. Good...They stay home.

+1 on the long sleeves. Contrary to what common sense might tell you, wearing long sleeves in the hot sun is actually more comfortable, especially with the high tech fabrics. I have UPF rated long sleeve shirts in the Columbia brand as well as others. They are pricey as you say, but my kids and the boss know I'm happy to see these on my B-day (it pays to have a bunch of grown kids). I use tons of sun screen. One warning about the aerosol sun screen. Keep the overspray away from your fish finder screen and other glossy surfaces. Tough to remove when it dries.
 
Shaugh said:
On that boat I used 4 oar locks. I think it would be easier for you to use the foot pads. Just put 2 on the front seat and 2 on the back. It needs to be square so they will need to maintain the same distance apart front and back.

To do that you need four 3 way corners and 4 footpads. Unless you're really concerned about cost and making it as light as possible I'd stick with 1" conduit.

The top is simply a tarp that's wrapped around and hooked with bungee cords. If you have the ability to sew things, it's easy to make a top with pockets on the ends for the rails to slide through. First thing is to make the framework. Then get the measurements to design the top.

Do you have any close ups of how the conduit fits and connects into the oar locks?

Thanks
 
That boat has 5/8" oarlocks. Your boat probably has 1/2" ?. I took a 5/8" coupling nut:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-8-in-11-tpi-Zinc-Rod-Coupling-Nuts-822311/204337405

Which has an outside diameter just right to fit inside 1" conduit. I epoxied them inside each of the 4 uprights and pinned them with a small bolt. Then I just added a small stub of 5/8" threaded rod and epoxied that into the coupling nut to leave about a 2" stem that fit through the oarlock and had enough to lightly thread a nut on the tip.

You can see in this photo why I tried to steer you away from that idea. Boats aren't square, so my oarlocks in front were about 5" wider apart than in back. I had to make this adapter to get the uprights the same distance apart. You can also see the angling.. oar locks are not necessarily plumb.

IMG_20170420_132507847a.jpg

Check your oarlocks to see what size the hole is and how far apart they would be front and back. I'll help you find the right stuff to make it work...
 
Very helpful sir thank you. I think I can come up with a solution for my boat using this.

Kinda leaning with a sort of t top like in your earlier pic, but fastened via oarlocks instead of foot plates.
 
The larger 3 way corner frame on top is very rigid. That 4 legged frame is like a dining table when it's built. The oarlocks are just keeping the "table" attached to the boat... you don't need much of a connection with a frame like that. When you go to a narrower footprint the oarlocks might not be enough rigidity. You might need to add a reinforcing plate of some kind to keep the sidewall of the boat from flexing... I've learned a lot by "doing things wrong the first time". Happy to give you feedback on your idea.. can you sketch it ? PM is ok too...
 
Thanks Shaugh I will see if I can't get something on paper. But basically it would like the pic with the three way corners and flat top, except the front and back would extend out beyond the post.

Kinda like a t top with a wide base, except the anchor points would be oar locks.

It would have to be easily removable and somewhat collapsible for transport.
 
Ok so for that you will want to get 4 way corners... Then you can add a U shaped extension front and back..
 
Any tips on making it collapsible? It will definitely need to be removed for trailering. The smaller the top can be for transport the better.
 
Is this what you have in mind as far as overall construction ?

four 4 way corners and 4 elbows ?

IMG_1582.JPG

I like this design because you can just use the center square section or add the extensions front and back as you need them. As far as collapsing it I'd suggest keeping the center square section intact and the extensions rigged with fabric seperately in 3 flat sections that will just lay in the boat for traveling. The 4 upright poles would be loose in a storage bag.

To assemble you just put the 4 uprights into the oarlocks and then lift the center square section on top of the 4 poles. Tighten it down and then add your front and back extensions.

Here is an example of how to rig the fabric. Cut the fabric to be just a hair smaller than the opening in the frame. Put grommets around the perimeter and connect it to the frame with elastic cord or even zip ties.
SC300-PB-1.jpg


If you know how to bend 1" conduit, you could soften the corners by making the extensions in 1 piece:
IMG_1584.JPG
 
I got my framework built today. Ready to rig the sections with fabric:

IMG_1591.JPG

IMG_1596.JPG

IMG_1592.JPG

IMG_1594.JPG

IMG_1599.JPG

IMG_1597.JPG
 
That is pretty much exactly I what I want to build. Looks awesome man!

Do the brackets come tapped for the bolts to tighten the pole connections or did you do that yourself?
 
Yes they come with the round thumb screws. I replace them with 1/4"-20 x 1/2" screws in places that will stay permanently assembled to minimize them.

https://www.ysbw.com/Canopy-Fitting-1-Flat-Side-p/2205.htm
 
I recommend Leader accessories 3 bow bimini top, this cover was the perfect solution. It was very easy to put together and install on the boat. I bought the smallest width cover and even thought the beam of the boat was about three inches shorter than the smallest size it still fits perfectly. This is a quality product.
 
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