MonArk Mod 16' V

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Skiffing
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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by Skiffing » 30 Jan 2015, 18:57

New member here. I really enjoy this forum!

I purchased a 2000 Monark Knight 16 w/ a 2000 Merc 40 ELPT 4s last September. My son is twelve and ready for a new challenge - and I haven't had a boat in the water since he was born.

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This Monark is a fully welded hull with aluminum deck. This is the hull without the side console:

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The engine has good provenance and maintenance records. Seemed to be in good shape and well maintained. Compression good, etc, etc. The hull OK good for its age no dents or dings and no evidence of corrosion. Anyway, we took it home.

We had limited time to take it out this fall [2X only] for a few hours each trip. On the first trip I noticed lots of spray coming over the transom. I kicked the poorly placed transducer up - but spray continued unless at cruise. The deck plate had a hole for the bilge pump hose - and water got into the bilge. So I wasn't suprised that the pump was cycling.

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Didn't matter. I can fix that - but not until next spring.

Next trip out with 2 adults and my son hunting the last of Merrimack River Stripers the bilge float switch must have stuck. I noticed we were bow high and slow out of the hole. Switched bilge to manual and it pumped "a lot".

Uh Oh!

When we got home we flooded the hull so water was above the deck and discovered two leaks in the transom.

One on the port side:

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And one on the starboard side:

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So we stuck a camera under the deck plate and started taking pictures:

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The port side leak was obviously a busted weld and stress related. Starboard side - who knows. Even the shop I brought it too wasn't sure - but thinks also stress.

Reading this forum I now now why! The trailer bunks end[ed] a few inches short of the transom............

Here's a list of things being done [or already done] in preparation to next year:

1. Transom repair [complete]
2. Pedestal seat removal, install bench seat with swivels [in progress]
3. Stern storage, seats, fuel tank and battery area [in progress]
4. Complete re-wire
5. Lowrance Elite 5 HDI install
6. Tach install
7. Dual bilge install
8. All lighting replaced with LED
9. Trailer bunks replaced w/ slippery stuff! and new LED

If the forum has interest I will update throughout the restoration
Last edited by Skiffing on 19 Feb 2015, 04:58, edited 1 time in total.

Xtremeboats
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Skiffing
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2000 MonArk Knight 16 Repair & Restoration

Post by Skiffing » 31 Jan 2015, 00:06

While it's cold and snowy outside we're working in the basement on some modifications.

We got a used Delta truck tool box for a full size pickup for $75 and cut it apart.

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We cut the box at the red line. Flipped the lower part upside down [trimmed the ends] and will fasten it to the deck and gunnels. We'll fasten composite plastic swivels and cushioned seats on top and put a hatch in for storage.

The top section fits between the gunnels at the stern and provides additional storage - seats - and covers fuel tanks and batteries.

25yamaha
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2000 MonArk Knight 16 Repair & Restoration

Post by 25yamaha » 31 Jan 2015, 18:17

I like theboat =D>
what kind of speed do you get with that 40 and 2 men with gear?

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Skiffing
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2000 MonArk Knight 16 Repair & Restoration

Post by Skiffing » 31 Jan 2015, 20:13

^^^^
26 - 27 mph

It will be better when engine height is corrected and dinged prop replaced.

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Skiffing
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2000 MonArk Knight 16 Repair & Restoration

Post by Skiffing » 03 Feb 2015, 18:37

This is the transom brace I had welded in. There is no more flex.

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Still plenty of room to get a deck plate in the new deck and access the bilge.

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Skiffing
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2000 MonArk Knight 16 Repair & Restoration

Post by Skiffing » 11 Feb 2015, 23:25

Where's the darn boat.......................

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I have to get innovative and create mini-projects that can be done in the basement.

Wish the boat would fit in the garage. Wish I could find the boat!

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Skiffing
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2000 MonArk Knight 16 Repair & Restoration

Post by Skiffing » 19 Feb 2015, 04:55

I finished the fabrication of the bench seat and stern tool box mentioned in post #2 above. I have a couple of questions at the end of this post I hope you guys can help me with and offer opinions on.

I bought a used aluminum truck tool box [Delta] for a full size [F250] pickup and cut it apart. The pieces are going here:

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The tool box was wider than the gunwales. So after I cut the bottom off for the bench seat I also had to remove 8" from the middle of the top tool box section and mend it together so it can be watertight storage and also provide seating, if needed.

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See where the gussets are? My son & I sat on this when only supported at the ends [350 lbs] and it is rock solid.

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I used "T" stock under the top - notched it to maintain the slightly curved profile and riveted it to a gusset on the outside bedded in 5200. For the bottom section I used 1" "L" on the inside and left over diamond plate from the removal and riveted everything together with more marine adhesive.

The bench seat height including swivel will be at least two inches lower than the pedestal mounts that came with the boat. They were way too high, scary & loose like a goose. The new ones will be 16" above deck - which still seem to be too high. But I can't work with the boat as it's buried in 4+ feet of snow.

I cut the boxed ends off . The bench is 16" wide and 10 " high. It is light gauge so I bought some 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" anodized aluminum angle at the scrap yard for $2.00 a pound that I will use for an interior frame that will be fastened to the deck and sides. I bought six 7 foot pieces for $22.00.

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I bought composite seat swivels for a couple of reasons.

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The steel ball bearing type are just too "loose". You get into any kind of sea and they don't stay still - uncomfortable and dangerous. And corrosion.... I don't want carbon steel anywhere near the aluminum [I'll be in salt water mostly]. They are pretty thick though - > 1.5 inches - so I may have to cut the bench seat a little lower on final fit..............

I don't know what "grade" this aluminum is - but it certainly is not marine grade. It's pretty soft - maybe 3300. So after I washed everything down I gave it an acid scrub and stainless steel wire brushing. After rinsing I wiped with acetone and used Scotch Brite pads in the orbital, wiped again and then primed with Rustoleum etching primer - inside and out - and all edges. I haven't decided on a final paint product.

Some questions -

This is a modified "V" w/ fairly aggressive deadrise. Deck to top of gunwale is 19"..... What do you think your comfortable seat height would be? [I'm figuring travel at cruise ~ 18 - 20 knots w/ a wind fetch chop] [I'm thinking I should be at 14" - still comfortable to stand up from]

Where should I put a lockable hatch in the bench seat? Top or rear? If I don't cut the beach seat lower I can put a 9" x 24" on the rear. Between the seats on top I can put a 12" x 14". The storage would be used for life jackets, cushions, tool box. The rear box would contain emergency equipment and be more readily accessible.

Lastly - paint. Since I've already primed w/ Rustoleum etching primer should I stay with that brand? Also - does the primer have to be sanded prior to final paint application [I hope not because it's diamond plate and a PITA to sand]?

Thanks.

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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by Skiffing » 19 Feb 2015, 18:05

Wow!

275 views and only one comment.

You're a hard group.

ericman
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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by ericman » 19 Feb 2015, 18:30

Here's my input. I am definitely not a fan of the poured in foam flotation, particularly when on a relatively flat bottomed boat. Poured foam traps moisture, moisture oxidizes just about any metal, even aluminum. I've seen boats with .100" thick bottom hulls with complete thru-wall pitting. Throw a tarp over the boat and climb in on a bright sunny day and it looks like a planetarium with all the pin-holes. If it's exposed, I'd get rid of it. It's work, but it will save your hull. You can substitute sheet foam, which moves around and sits above the hull, allowing water to drain past, and air to flow past, keeping things dry.

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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by rscottp » 19 Feb 2015, 19:48

+1 about the foam. The pour in stuff will cause problems unless boat is garaged IMO. You gotta get the snow off your roof, those ice damns are gonna do damage!

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Skiffing
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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by Skiffing » 20 Feb 2015, 16:57

I'm aware of the potential with poured in place foam. It's a fully welded deck with closed end rivet fasteners. Weather infiltration isn't possible. The couple of places I examined were free of any corrosion. Ice dams are a problem for everyone in new England this year. In my case when I replaced the roof I also applied membrane under shingles for the 1st six feet. Not a drop getting inside. But thanks for your concern.

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Re: MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by rscottp » 21 Feb 2015, 16:48

Glad you're not getting the ice dams, think spring! It has been my experience that water alway gets in eventually and after removing hundreds of pounds of water logged foam from my boat I want no part of it. Just my two cents.

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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by Skiffing » 21 Feb 2015, 22:23

Understood - and something I'm going to keep a close eye on. I really don't want to take out a welded deck when there's no evidence of a problem. I cut a hatch into the quarterdeck. Others have suggested a little PM in the form of acid flush, rinse and forced ventilation.

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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by Skiffing » 23 Mar 2015, 22:08

Still over a foot of snow - but at least the boat is uncovered. Removed the console a while ago. Cleaned, etched and painted. Then new windshield and console railing.

New dashboard with switch panel, power and negative bus bars attached. That way all connections can be easily exposed by removing the four dashboard bolts.

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I thought the windshield came with mounting hardware -brackets and whatnot - not so. The windshield is 1/4" plexiglass.

I had to fabricate the windshield mount. I used 1" angle with 5/16" X 1/2" "U" channel. The "U" provided a place to seat the windshield and through bolt with some rubber and teflon washers inside using #6 stainless bolts and stainless washers on the outside. - well coated with Tef-Gel.

I drilled near the top of the 1/2" "U" with 9/64" bit so there was good distance to the edge of the plexiglass - > 2X diameter of the hole.

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So far so good.

When the console gets reinstalled I'll post the electrical stuff. Everything is new.

Side note - when I removed the console a couple of weeks ago I also removed the control bracket which is 0.10 5056 aluminum and appear original to the boat. The controls were bolted into the side and a FF was bolted into the top with poor quality stainless steel bolts.

You can see the corrosion which started at these fastenings and migrated out from them. Even so, for 15 years old, the corrosion is not structural - but something to keep in mind - especially if you are buying aluminum stock at Home Depot or Lowes which will probably be 3300 and not marine grade or corrosion resistant.

Also see the spot corrosion which appears to be from mill scale. Fortunately I haven't seen any mill scale on the hull - inside or out.

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I'll acid wash this piece, prime and paint and it will be as good as new.

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MonArk Mod 16' V

Post by Skiffing » 03 Apr 2015, 21:21

^^^
Regarding the control mount in previous post. Cleaned with soap and water then buffed with scotch bright and vinegar and acetone wipe.

Self etching primer, two coats finish and three coats flat clear coat - all per manufacturer recommendation short durations re-coats.... Then baked at 200*F for 90 minutes.

Finish was remarkably hard compared to air dry several days old - but similar to 2 weeks air dry. Just my take if you're interested in durability.

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