Recent content by craveman85

I'd say after an hour. Depending on conditions of course. Too soon and the propellants from the aerosol can may not have evaporated yet.

Usually if you let primer fully dry it needs a quick scuff before paint

I take out my impeller every year and put it in a zip lock bag with silicone in it. It adds plasticity and flexibility back to old hardened rubber. I use dielectric grease, camp dry, permatex silicone lube spray. Lately I've found I like dot5 brake fluid. It's silicone based where as 3,4, and...

My last camo boat I painted "shenanigans" down the side in big gold letters. If that one wasn't so beat up I'd still have it. Used to spend around 20 hours a week in it when I was single and worked 3 12's Second vote is to paint a fish hook on the side with one of those six pack can holders...

I'm not so worried about hull integrity. Just thought maybe I could use the alumalloy to fill them then grind it down flush with the boat hull. I'm thinking it would be less unsightly than a big deep scratch. Unless everyone else thinks feathering out a deep scratch is ok. There aren't many...

Using cheap garage sale aluminum ladders as framing for a deck. $20 in aluminum ladder goes a lot farther and is a lot stronger than Lowe's angle stock aluminum.

I had a 16' row boat that leaked like hell for years. About 3 or 4 gallons an hour. I'd get up to speed and pull the drain plug to empty. Then I found this site. I covered all rivets and seams with gluvit then painted it. Still leaked. Found out I had a quarter sized hole in the hull...

I started polishing my boat in preparation for my 59 merc mark 78a. Problem is that I'm noticing some deep scratches in my hull. Some deep enough that I feel they may be half the thickness of the metal. Does anyone have any suggestions? I've got some alumalloy brazing sticks but I'm not sure...

When I bought my carb kit they said there's no needle for the jet to be adjusted. I can order other slow jets with a different orifice though.

I thought the slow speed would be adjustable.

I just got a 1976 Johnson stinger 75 HP model 75elr76. It didn't run when I got it but a quick carb cleaning has it running pretty decent. My problem is that if I back off the choke all the way it likes to cough and die out. I was going to assist the slow speed needles out a bit but I can't...

It will definitely be made of cedar like the floor. I was thinking of finishing with teak oil like my picnic table which is just plain pine and holding up nicely after a few years.

I meant dimensional hardwood board. I could laminate enough ash or other things or buy some hardwoods in my 1x12 size. Don't knock pine. It wasn't referred to as the kings wood for nothing lol.

Is there anything clear that I can seal wood with that's UV resistant? I'd really like to keep bothe the inner and outer transom wood unpainted. Also really wouldn't like to use plywood.my wood is only 12" high and 1" thick so Icould easily get dimensional lumber. I have access to dirt cheap...

What about hardwood plywood they have at Lowes. I have a sheet of 1" laying around. With the proper sealing of course.