I went the fiberglass insert route on my project and had some problems with cavitation at the beginning, but it was easily solved by smoothing out my intake tunnel with a little bit of Bondo-Glass, and replacing an impeller that was out of spec...
Cool project.
I'll echo what the previous guys have said about stiffening the bottom around your inlet. My project has a couple stiffening ribs that run through the area of the inlet and I'm glad they are there. As a matter of fact, I wish I had a few more around the pump tunnel I mounted...
Looking great. That console is going to be nice when it is way past dark and you're hustling to make it home in time to get cleaned up and to the office.
PSG-
Not sure how I missed your response. The boat has been in storage for the last couple months as I catch up on honey-do's, etc. Haven't ordered the water pressure gauge but that is next on the list.
Camo is my choice as well. I painted the inside of my boat with a grey and it looks horrible after about 5 minutes with the Texas mud. Have to wash the whole thing out before it is presentable again. My only concern with the camo would be heat with the sun beating down on it.
Heat and constant pressure are your friends with the ride plate and pump shoe. A bottle or screw jack and a small propane or map gas torch will help the RTV Ultra Black give up the death grip.
Rancherro speaks the truth about PWCtoday.com. Search over there and you'll find a ton of...
Two ways to do the oil line to the Rotary Valve.
First one is to keep the oil tank with the engine and run the line to the two sides of the engine block into the RV passage.
The second is to fill the RV passage with an once and a half of Seadoo Synthetic 2 Cycle oil, and then run a hose...
PSG is your expert if you're looking to bolt a Yamaha pump and tunnel in there.
The Fiberglass insert that I used was really pretty simple to do. I used a 787cc motor out of a 1995 XP800, but any seadoo pump tunnel and motor should be fairly similar. I chose the 787 motor because of the...