Recent content by uncndl1

My tin boat now has steering, console, controls, and new oars. Splashed at nearby lake for 30 minutes and she handles well. Obviously I need to paint but that’s another project. I really appreciate all your comments as things progressed.

I’m going to try out using closed OarLocks with a collar at 30”. My beam is 58 inches at the oarlock brackets. My original ones are open and I’d have to drill a hole into the new oars to use them.

I surely appreciate all the above responses and I’m glad there’s plenty of experience out there to educate me! I can attest that yes, we broke an oar while out in Newport bay in Rhode Island on this 1970 Boat after our outboard quit working. I ordered new oars, which are not quite as wide on...

Here’s link to OarLock Questions https://www.tinboats.net/threads/oars-oarlock-questions.50507/

So are you for re-using my old OarLocks and drilling holes in the new oars? If so, how do I set up to drill holes properly?

This is a new post about oars and OarLocks. Previous work on transom and seats is found here: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/wards-sea-king-aluminum-boat.39891/ Steering and controls were added here: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/adding-steering-to-old-wards-sea-king.50451/ One of my oars...

I finally installed the safety (kill) switch on the outboard. I ordered waterproof crimp connectors with heat shrink and tucked the wires inside the cowling. I added the capability of having a remote switch up at the controls by “y’ing” he wires in the cowl for a later project. This week I...

I’m getting ready to install the safety switch that shuts the motor off. The one picture is at the outboard. When you touch those two wires together the motor turns off and I want to run those up to the Consol helm and hook it to a switch like the one in the other picture… The previous owner...

I just was updating what I’ve done so far and saw your post. Unfortunately she is not an electric start nor a power trim model. I took the previous owners words on the parts which I bought complete for $400 that included the console and the steering controls with cable, the throttle and...

Thanks for all the above comments and thoughts…I went ahead and used the motor control bracket that I had purchased off eBay, even though it wasn’t quite big enough. I made it work … and I’m glad I used it because it allowed me to position the steering cable up higher to gain another inch or...

I think the side bracket mentioned above won’t work because my control box is longer than 11”. I might need to fashion something to tilt the box into a vertical position. Any ideas such as this search picture? Think I can use a small mahogany board cut into a “wedge”?

I saw this parked at the boat shop and thought of you. Since you’re going to re-do the transom, you can just make it 4” taller.

I found the side bracket to hold the controls and ordered from the company. Once the controls and console are installed, I can measure and get new steering cable and control cables for the outboard. Today I changed the oil in lower unit and got the outboard running on a new flush port adapter...

The seats & transom were done awhile ago (see link here for that): https://www.tinboats.net/threads/wards-sea-king-aluminum-boat.39891/ Now that I’m retired, I want to add steering to our Sea King boat. Here’s what I picked up on marketplace: Console with cable steering & Yamaha F 9.9 with...

People above have answered most of your questions. I used zinc chromate primer from hardware store after cleaning my old aluminum boat. Here’s a link to my project: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/wards-sea-king-aluminum-boat.39891/