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Front of the rear deck cut also.uploadfromtaptalk1426539064746.jpg

Rear cut to size. Ill add the hatches later. I've gotten a ton done todayuploadfromtaptalk1426537058448.jpg

Laying up the pattern for the rear seat/deck cover. uploadfromtaptalk1426533681710.jpg

I just put together the"rack" that my 3 batteries will sit it. Oh and I'm smoking a corned beef brisket today too.....uploadfromtaptalk1426522000268.jpguploadfromtaptalk1426522009329.jpguploadfromtaptalk1426522020172.jpguploadfromtaptalk1426522031544.jpg

Why is it so dang hard to decide how to lay everything out!

I finally got some work done on the boat yesterday! It was about 65 and sunny so I pulled it out of the garage and started setting up the front and rear deck. Would probably have gotten a lot more done but it was warm and sunny and the beers were oh so tasty so I also threw a pork butt on the...

I have a 1974 16 foot deep v mirrocraft with a 25hp tiller Johnson. I have everything out and am starting to build the framing on the front deck. I will have 24 volt bow mount trolling motor so I will need two groups 31 batteries plus a cranking/sonar battery. I am curious about weight...

Is your build on here? I'd love to see it!

I think that is a good idea. I am thinking about cutting a relief slit in the top of the angle so that I can contour it to the hull and add rivets there. That will allow it to not sit on the chine there. Btw I happened to have just went through your lund build this morning when I was fighting a...

Started thinking about the front and rear decks today. On the front I think I have kind of decided on this configuration. Using the bench seat brackets on the rear then running 2" aluminum angle up to the front and resting on the chine. Is resting on the chine a bad idea if I also rivet it to...

Aluminum angle and tube came in yesterday. Super fast shipping from buymetal.com and shipping was also free with a $100 order. They beat anything locally on price that I could find. Will be gone all weekend but hope to get some work done starting next Monday!

I got my sample today. Its stiff, but not like linoleum quite. I think it would make good edges over bends but not sure about corners unless you overlapped. Hatches should be fairly simple to do if you know how to do them in carpet.

Ok so I was getting ready to order rivets and I thought I had a pretty good handle. Blind closed end rivets to attach my aluminum frame to the bottom ribs and side of hull. Then I see there are aluminum with aluminum mandrel and aluminum with stainless steel mandrel. To the best of my knowledge...

Most likely wood unless I can find a ridiculously cheap couple of sheets of Al. With the motor overhaul, new trolling motor and fish finder, cost of the aluminum angle plus fasteners i have already bought, 3 new batteries plus some sort of floor covering, I am already questioning my sanity. Will...

I guess what is the hardest thing for me to visualize, is how my boat will sit in the water. IE will the gunwales be parallel to the water or will the bottom of the boats, hence, the ribs. Either way it's probably not going to matter too much I suppose, as we are talking about at most, a four...

Absolutely beautiful!! I'm sure that got your client's attention!!

There has to be some frame of reference, in my mind anyway. Something to pull measurements off of or lay a level on or how else would you make sure it's "straight".

Yeah I woke up to 13 degrees and a surprise unforcasted 4inches of snow this morning. I was contemplating leak testing the boat in the drive today. Needless to say, that's not happening! Our lake water is pretty darn hard right now!

So I got the inside of the 74 mirrocraft completely bare and am about to start the framing for the floor to sit on. I put a level on top of the gunwales and got it 100% level by using the trailer jack. For the heck of it, I layed a level across the floor ribs and it shows the floor of the boat...

What thickness of aluminum Sheet would a guy need assuming those same 2x2x.125 angles on 2foot centers?