Duranautic 13’ Coastie

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TMO8413

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Joined
Jun 8, 2012
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Location
New England
LOCATION
Boston
Picked this up today for $600, figured the price was decent given the market for 12-14ft boats. Not sure if I am going to clean her up and use it or sell but thought this one was pretty neat. Built like a tank!

It's been awhile since I last owned an aluminum boat but a couple of housekeeping questions:

1. Should I paint/treat the bottom, if at all? And if so, what do you recommend?

2. There a pinhole in the bottom; what’s the best way to patch it?

3. Keel guard - worth the money or no?

4. Painting: what’s the best way to remove the old, chipping off paint?

5. Finally, looking to color match the famous Duranautic “Seagram green” - any ideas?

Thanks all and excited to share my build as I go along!
 

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Take a picture of the color you want, bring it to a store that makes paint for Aluminum boats (I assume it's special paint or.....contact Duranautic directly and ask for a quart or couple of quarts. Then if you know how to spray it on, do so, if not ask a body shop to do the job for you.
 
Take a picture of the color you want, bring it to a store that makes paint for Aluminum boats (I assume it's special paint or.....contact Duranautic directly and ask for a quart or couple of quarts. Then if you know how to spray it on, do so, if not ask a body shop to do the job for you.
I just found that Marathon, who make these now, sell matching paint for $58 a can! Yikes…
 
I just found that Marathon, who make these now, sell matching paint for $58 a can! Yikes…
How big is the can? It's not latex house paint, it's special stuff. If the can is per qt or greater I'd grab it. Even if you have to save up to get it. The other issue is, will you strip the blue or paint over it? I'd want some seriously solid advice on what is best.
 
If I had acess to one I would use a sand blaster, no need to remove all the paint, just the loose and flaking stuff. Any bare aluminum should have a primer coat. Good paint is not cheap, been that way for some time. Neighbor does a little auto painting, 100 plus per quart and the really good stuff is &%#% wow expensive !! If your not making a show piece, I use Rustoleum exterior enamal and a roller for flat surfaces then rattle cans to get the difficult areas. Mine still looks great after 6 years.
 
If I had acess to one I would use a sand blaster, no need to remove all the paint, just the loose and flaking stuff. Any bare aluminum should have a primer coat. Good paint is not cheap, been that way for some time. Neighbor does a little auto painting, 100 plus per quart and the really good stuff is &%#% wow expensive !! If your not making a show piece, I use Rustoleum exterior enamal and a roller for flat surfaces then rattle cans to get the difficult areas. Mine still looks great after 6 years.
Thanks for this. Do you ever paint the bottom or leave it bare?
 
Thanks for the insight…got a chance to look under the boat today. Looks like there are several spots where someone applied 3M marine adhesive sealant (5200 fast cure). Any way I can remove this stuff and start fresh and see what I am working with? Sanding it down, perhaps?

 
My fist thought on painting an aluminum boat, is no don’t paint it if it’s bare aluminum, and has never been painted before. Once an aluminum boat has been painted, it is too work intensive to strip it back to bare aluminum again. Having said that, once an aluminum boat has been painted, it will require new paint eventually.

My current project (1992 Polar Kraft 1751) was painted from the factory 32 years ago, so I decided to repaint it. I sanded it with an electric orbital sander with 80 grit to remove most of the paint, after using a SS wire brush for corrosion removal. I final sanded the hull with 120 grit before rolling on the paint. I used Total Boat Aluminum Boat paint, which does not require primer.

Removing 3M 2200, can be a challenge. I like to use a scraper to get the majority of it, and then a SS wire brush to clean up the remaining sealant that the scraper did not remove, this will leave you with clean metal going forward.

Keel Guard on an aluminum boat? No.

A small corrosion pit or pin hole can be repaired by installing a rivet. Use solid rivets everywhere possible, when it’s a blind situation the next best thing is a pop rivet. Install all rivets using 2200 sealant, this “wet installation” of rivets provides added strength, corrosion resistance and superior sealing against water leaks. It’s worth the extra time and effort.

Larger holes, damage or leaks may benefit from a bonded style repair. Use 2200 sealant to bond the aluminum sheet metal patch. I would normally rivet a patch in place, however; 2200 is strong enough to hold a repair patch in place without mechanical fasteners.

That’s a nice looking boat, especially for $600…congrats !

What are you going to power it with?
 
My fist thought on painting an aluminum boat, is no don’t paint it if it’s bare aluminum, and has never been painted before. Once an aluminum boat has been painted, it is too work intensive to strip it back to bare aluminum again. Having said that, once an aluminum boat has been painted, it will require new paint eventually.

My current project (1992 Polar Kraft 1751) was painted from the factory 32 years ago, so I decided to repaint it. I sanded it with an electric orbital sander with 80 grit to remove most of the paint, after using a SS wire brush for corrosion removal. I final sanded the hull with 120 grit before rolling on the paint. I used Total Boat Aluminum Boat paint, which does not require primer.

Removing 3M 2200, can be a challenge. I like to use a scraper to get the majority of it, and then a SS wire brush to clean up the remaining sealant that the scraper did not remove, this will leave you with clean metal going forward.

Keel Guard on an aluminum boat? No.

A small corrosion pit or pin hole can be repaired by installing a rivet. Use solid rivets everywhere possible, when it’s a blind situation the next best thing is a pop rivet. Install all rivets using 2200 sealant, this “wet installation” of rivets provides added strength, corrosion resistance and superior sealing against water leaks. It’s worth the extra time and effort.

Larger holes, damage or leaks may benefit from a bonded style repair. Use 2200 sealant to bond the aluminum sheet metal patch. I would normally rivet a patch in place, however; 2200 is strong enough to hold a repair patch in place without mechanical fasteners.

That’s a nice looking boat, especially for $600…congrats !

What are you going to power it with?
Thanks for the insight, much appreciated. It is bare metal so if decide not to paint, would it hurt to epoxy the bottom with Gluvit epoxy and not paint for peace of mind?

Once the spring arrives I am debating on how crazy I want to go with an engine. Since I’ll primarily being using it on the weekend on small ponds and lakes, I am not so sure going brand new four stroke makes sense. Then again, if I don’t want to worry about it, I may go a 9.9 Tohatsu/Suzuki/Yamaha. I also have thought of going simple and getting an 8HP or so OMC to stroke for cheap.
 
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