I've confused myself. Help me make a smart choice!

[authentic]

I'm looking at 2 different 70s Johnson motors. Both guys were responding to my emails w/the subject line of Johnson motor, and I got confused for a bit about who was talking about which motor. I've straightened myself out, and now, I need to figure out which motor is the best option.

I've got a 1975 16' Lund American that I don't need to fly, but I'd like to be able to get across the lake at a decent speed.

Option #1 - 1976 35hp Johnson $550 -Electric Start- Guy says he took it off his boat 3 years ago, but I can hear it run before buying. It also would come with a brand new 12 gallon gas tank. If it runs fine, I assume, I can just bring it home, have a basic tune up done, and be ready to go. Correct? Am I missing something here?

Option #2 - 70s 25 hp Johnson (looks exact same as the 1976) $300 - Was taken off the boat last fall. Had water pump replaced, and the guy says it could probably use a carb rebuild. I'm waiting on a response right now on getting to hear it run and if it is electric or pull start, but I assume, at the very least, I could do a compression check.

I like the fact I could hear Option #1 running, the extra 10hp and that it comes w/electric start and a new gas tank. I may be missing something on this one though, that I'm not thinking about.

I like the price tag of option #2 and I'm not sure how much I need the extra 10hp. The cowling also looks cleaner, not that that necessarily means anything.

I'm brand new to outboards and boating on a little bit bigger lakes, so I don't know if a 25 would be fine, or not. Or, what else I need to be looking at. I just know what other outboards are selling for right now, and these both appear to be better deals than the other things I've looked at. They're both in my price range, but obviously, Option #2 would leave more room in the budget for other toys for the new boat.

What do you guys think? Pros or Cons of either?

 

[Nevillizer]

I would go with the 35 HP as my first choice. Listen to it run, shift gears and watch the "pee hold" for the water coming out from the cooling. It it looks good snatch her up. It is a good price.

As far as the 25 goes, again a good motor for a great price and would work just as well. Unless I am mistaken, the only differance in the two are the jets inside the carberators.

I'd get the 35 and keep the 25 on the back burner if you don't like the way it checks out.

 

[Whoopbass]

I saw the pic of the 25hp on your craigslist and that is the one I would buy since the 35 looks terrible.

If you rebuild the carb (easy to do yourself) it won't be that hard to pull start. Electric start is nice and can be added to the 25hp at a later time for around $100-$150 used from ebay.
The 35hp won't be a whole lot faster top end speed then the 25hp but it will be able to give you more low end torque and will push heavier loads and be able to maintain top end speed.

I have a 25hp Evinrude on my fairly heavy modified bass boat style 15' Gregor. It goes 25-27 mph on the GPS.

Since you stated you don't know anything about outboards make sure your boat requires a short shaft since the motors pictured are short shafts. Your transom should be in the 15"-17" range. If your boat has a 20" transom then you need a long shaft motor.

 

[authentic]

The guy with the 25 just got back to me, he's going to get it all hooked up, so I can hear it run. Do I still need to do a compression test? The reason I ask, is I don't own one, so that would be another expense. It apparently has the electric start parts, but the guy never hooked it up. Just used it as a pull start.

I'm thinking at $300 it's hard to go wrong w/that one. I will keep the 35 on the backburner. Since the pictures look so bad, I'm thinking it may be around for a bit longer.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Yes you want to do a compression test. See if you can rent one from an auto parts store or borrow one.

 

[authentic]

I've got a 16" transom, so the short shaft is what I'm looking for.

 

[Whoopbass]

You can get a compression gauge at Harbor Freight for no more then $5.00 or rent one from an auto store for free.
It's basically a tire gauge that screws into the spark plug hole.
I have bought a bunch of outboards without testing the compression with a gauge and they have all been fine but you never know.
If you do test it test it after you warmed up the motor. Pull the rope as fast as you can for 4-5 pulls. Pull start versus electric start will give you a lower reading by about 10%.
If it runs fine snatch it up. Those outboards are bullet proof.

 

[authentic]

Well, okay. At that price, it might just be a handy tool to have around.

Just to make sure I know what I'm doing.

Step1 - Warm up the motor
Step2 - take out one plug and put in the compression tester
Step3 - Pull several times and check the pressure
Step4 - Repeat 2&3 for the other cylinder

Is that right? What readings are okay, and what are good?

I'm hoping this thing lasts until tomorrow evening, because that's the earliest I can get there. Otherwise, I'll be looking at the rougher looking 35hp, and crossing my fingers that it's just cosmetic.

 

[Whoopbass]

You better get your butt over there asap if that motor is a great deal in your area.
Cheap motors around here don't last a day.

You have the compression thing right except remove both plugs and then test each cylinder. When you remove both plugs it makes it easier to pull.

I have owned several 25hp Johnson's/Evinrudes and they have all had 100+ psi on each cylinder. Usually more like 120 lbs each.
I would say around 90+ lbs it should be fine. The cylinders should be within 10% of each other which is the important thing.

 

[crazymanme2]

New outboards have around 150#.Anything below 100# for me is questionable.

 

[authentic]

I'd love to get over there ASAP, but I'm home w/all 3 little kids tonight. And, it's about an hour and forty-five minute drive. It wouldn't help me to have a cheap, solid outboard, if my my wife killed me for keeping all the kids out past their bedtimes.

 

[authentic]

Lucky for me, the guy apparently has a schedule that is as crazy as mine. He's had a bunch of calls on the outboard, but hasn't been able to connect w/people. I'm picking up a compression tester and heading that direction right after work. He said, at this point, he'll hold it for me, since I have to drive a ways.

I'm getting the the 70something 25hp (Looks just like the 76 I was also looking at) Johnson for $300. He said he had it started a couple nights ago. Ran great at a higher idle, but when slowed down, not so good. That's just meaning a carb rebuild might be in order, right? I'll get to hear it run, and then run a compression test on it. Any other things to look at? Water pump was just replaced.

Kind of odd question. is there a specific, good way to haul an outboard in the back of my truck?

 

[Nevillizer]

Lay it down on its side (might put a blanket or something under it) and strape it. Bada bing, bada bang.

 

[Whoopbass]

I've had guys tell me they would hold outboards for me and when I got there the Pricks sold them to someone else. One trick I would do is offer an extra $20 to hold an item until I got there if it was priced cheap. That worked for a year or so and now there's other guys doing the same thing. One time a guy listed a decent Avon RIB inflatable with a blown Suzuki for free on Craigslist. I knew he would get bombarded with e-mails so in the title I offered him $100 for it. He called me up shortly there after and I drove to the Bay Area and picked it up. Best $100 I spent because I slapped a cheap 35hp Johnson on the back and been have had quite a bit of fun in that boat. I use it like its a jet ski and can even tow kids behind it on a tube.

Call him up mid day and tell him your getting ready to go to the bank and get the money and you wanted to make sure the deal was still on. Then before you leave call him back and confirm everything. Do whatever to commit this guy so you lock the deal in.

The first thing I would do is rebuild the carb regardless of how it ran. The kit is about $25 and its super easy to do.
That motor probably has points ignition so that could cause an idling problem. Your going to have to pull the flywheel and inspect and check the gaps. Pretty easy to do from what i've heard but I have never done it. You might want to invest in a repair manual.

One good way to haul the motor is to lay it on its back and with two ropes or two bungee cords tie it to each side of the bed. You will want both ropes pulling on each side of the outboard.
If you lay it down your suppose to lay it down with the tiller handle on the bottom. You can prop it up with a box or something to keep any pressure off the handle.

Good Luck

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I think you ship it tiller up. At least thats how you do smaller motors.

 

[bassboy1]

It's a two stroke. It matters not how you lay it. Just don't put it on anything delicate (think shift handle, choke knob, etc. Tiller side down (motor laying on port side) will be a-okay. You won't hurt the tiller by it touching the truckbed, unless you try to balance it on the tip of the tiller. They are pretty stout.

 

[Mike Redmond]

Just grab an old piece of foam,I've been doing it that way for years//foam will actually stop it from slip siding ,and yes tiller side down, thats the stonger side of the motor compared to the gear shift...good luck with your new to you purchase. Mike

 

[authentic]

Well, I got home w/my new to me $300 25hp Johnson. Compression tested out just a little over 100 on both cylinders. It ran fine in a big tub of water at the guys house. Just idled a little rough at low idle speed. the water pump appeared to be working fine. The even gave me a couple old tires to rest it on for transport. I think I got a pretty sweet deal.

The guy seemed to be a great guy, and has been burned by people on Craigslist in the past. So, he knew exactly what I was thinking when I kept calling before I left, to make sure the deal was still on. In fact, he even called me before I left town, to make sure I knew exactly what I was coming to look at. Apparently, there had been a guy there the day before that thought he should get a perfect motor for $300 and was upset that it most likely would need some TLC to get running smooth.

 

[Whoopbass]

$300 was a good deal. Your going to like that motor.
When you go to start the motor make sure its in neutral and turn the twist throttle all the way down. If the throttle isn't all the way down their a bear to start. Your only turning it down about an extra 1/2" but it makes all the difference in the world. If your able to twist the throttle quite a bit then your neutral throttle lock isn't catching so make sure it only goes 1/2" or so further then the start position.
If its very hard to start when its cold you might want to look into rebuilding the carb (made a huge difference it my 25) and inspect and set the points (if it has them). If it has a powerpack then you don't have points.