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irishpride42

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
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Location
McGee's Crossroads, NC
First off, glad to be here! Awesome site, I just found it yesterday! I have a 16ft polarkraft that I am redoing but need to get this motor right first, it is giving me a fit!! It is a 1985 35 HP Mercury which when I got it wasn't running at all so we put on a new power pack, rebuilt the carburetor, rebuilt the fuel pump, replaced all the gas lines, and a new filter. Finally it was running, we take it on the water the first time and it starts right up.....awesome.......pull away.....working fine......hit it full throttle and it chokes itself out. Does it all day, I bring it home and check and re-check everything. Went back out Saturday, added injection cleaner and water remover just in case there was gunk in the jets or water in the gas. Get it on the water and it does the same thing. We took a screwdriver to adjust and see if that would help and it made it worse so we put it back to the setting we had it on and now I am stumped, any ideas?

Thanks!
 
sounds like something in the carb. so it idles fine but die's under load?

i would tear the carb apart and re-check everything (needle backings, boss gasket ect)
 
Loggerhead Mike said:
sounds like something in the carb. so it idles fine but die's under load?

i would tear the carb apart and re-check everything (needle backings, boss gasket ect)

Say you split an outboard into four gears, 1 being slow, 2 being medium, 3 being fast, and 4 being wide open. It will run in all but wide open and then it is like it is choking itself out. It will run for a minute and then cut off. You can start it and it fires up just fine, runs in the three gears but cuts off as soon as you run it wide open.
 
Rebuild your carb. Symptoms sound just like a carb with a very slight blockage. Probably due for it anyway. Motors that aren't used on a weekly bases tend to need a carb rebuild once in a while.
 
bassboy1 said:
Rebuild your carb. Symptoms sound just like a carb with a very slight blockage. Probably due for it anyway. Motors that aren't used on a weekly bases tend to need a carb rebuild once in a while.

Thats the thing we have have already rebuilt that is where the issue lies
 
sounds like fuel starvation at WOT. I would double check your fuel pump rebuild and look for air leaks in the fuel line. Have you tried squeezing the bulb while it is cutting out?
 
blimp said:
sounds like fuel starvation at WOT. I would double check your fuel pump rebuild and look for air leaks in the fuel line. Have you tried squeezing the bulb while it is cutting out?

Yea I tried that and it didn't help, it is weird it is fine up until a certain point then it chokes itself out!
 
take your carb apart and soak it in carb cleaner for about a week then blow it out goob mine was doing that a few weeks ago and thats what i had to do to finally fix it
 
I have built thousands of carbs and engines over the years and have a simple solution so you dont have to take the carb out and tear it down. Most of the time and I mean most of the time the fuel mixture needle which enters into the Jet gets gunk on it and when the needle goes out as you open the throttle it can be gummed up which is allowing more air and not enough fuel. Go to your local auto parts store or Walfart and get yourself some of the top notch fuel treatment CLEANER, not the 2 dollar crap, more like the 8-16 dollar range.

Poor the entire bottle in your gasoline tank. Before you start your motor, make sure you have a couple things in place. Water of course, plenty of water on hand in your bucket that you have your prop in. I like to use a fan blowing on the engine with the engine cover off for cooling purposes. Last but not least a time watch to tell time. Start the motor and run at lowest setting for roughly 10-12 minutes, take it up to half throttle and let that run for 10-12 minutes then take it back down to idle for a quick 2-3 minute break. Last but not least run it at the highest throttle setting without killing the motor and let that run for 10-12 minutes.

As you are going along with the throttle setting to WOT you want to be very careful as to not kill the motor.The trick that we are trying to accomplish is to get the needle crystal clean and it works for me most of the time. Unless when you were rebuilding the carb you either got something lodged in the needle such as old gasket material, and or a rip in a gasket seeping air, or even the float not adjusted right. This is the least invasive procedure and works like a charm. Let me know how things go and if we need to investigate further.

WISHBONE OUT
 
WISHBONE said:
I have built thousands of carbs and engines over the years and have a simple solution so you dont have to take the carb out and tear it down. Most of the time and I mean most of the time the fuel mixture needle which enters into the Jet gets gunk on it and when the needle goes out as you open the throttle it can be gummed up which is allowing more air and not enough fuel. Go to your local auto parts store or Walfart and get yourself some of the top notch fuel treatment CLEANER, not the 2 dollar crap, more like the 8-16 dollar range.

Poor the entire bottle in your gasoline tank. Before you start your motor, make sure you have a couple things in place. Water of course, plenty of water on hand in your bucket that you have your prop in. I like to use a fan blowing on the engine with the engine cover off for cooling purposes. Last but not least a time watch to tell time. Start the motor and run at lowest setting for roughly 10-12 minutes, take it up to half throttle and let that run for 10-12 minutes then take it back down to idle for a quick 2-3 minute break. Last but not least run it at the highest throttle setting without killing the motor and let that run for 10-12 minutes.

As you are going along with the throttle setting to WOT you want to be very careful as to not kill the motor.The trick that we are trying to accomplish is to get the needle crystal clean and it works for me most of the time. Unless when you were rebuilding the carb you either got something lodged in the needle such as old gasket material, and or a rip in a gasket seeping air, or even the float not adjusted right. This is the least invasive procedure and works like a charm. Let me know how things go and if we need to investigate further.

WISHBONE OUT
Acouple questions...
what type cleaner...expensive kind?
what size(cleaner) and how much fuel to add it to(ratio),are you adding more then recommended?
and if your running it that long why not just do it in the lake,staying close to the launch?
just wondering
 
To answer your questions I like to use products such as Chevron, Lucus, Gumout (not the cheap versions). However I do not get paid to advertise for any one product. The type of additive to look for is a CLEANER with oils in it to lubricate as the cleaner breaks through the bum and muck. You are looking around 10 dollars or so. Bottle size is different between company's but I dump in the entire amount into a 2-3 gallon gas can and shake it up really good. This allows for the cleaner to be mixed with the gas.

As for taking it to the dock, you can certaintly do that which would be the prefered method, I was merely sudgesting saving time and energy going to the lake. You can do this at your home if you so choose but either way is fine.
 
WISHBONE said:
To answer your questions I like to use products such as Chevron, Lucus, Gumout (not the cheap versions). However I do not get paid to advertise for any one product. The type of additive to look for is a CLEANER with oils in it to lubricate as the cleaner breaks through the bum and muck. You are looking around 10 dollars or so. Bottle size is different between company's but I dump in the entire amount into a 2-3 gallon gas can and shake it up really good. This allows for the cleaner to be mixed with the gas.

As for taking it to the dock, you can certaintly do that which would be the prefered method, I was merely sudgesting saving time and energy going to the lake. You can do this at your home if you so choose but either way is fine.


Do you still go ahead amd mix in the two cycle oil? How easy is it to rebuild your carbs?


Thanks,

Jason
 
Troutman3000 said:
WISHBONE said:
To answer your questions I like to use products such as Chevron, Lucus, Gumout (not the cheap versions). However I do not get paid to advertise for any one product. The type of additive to look for is a CLEANER with oils in it to lubricate as the cleaner breaks through the bum and muck. You are looking around 10 dollars or so. Bottle size is different between company's but I dump in the entire amount into a 2-3 gallon gas can and shake it up really good. This allows for the cleaner to be mixed with the gas.

As for taking it to the dock, you can certaintly do that which would be the prefered method, I was merely sudgesting saving time and energy going to the lake. You can do this at your home if you so choose but either way is fine.


Do you still go ahead amd mix in the two cycle oil? How easy is it to rebuild your carbs?


Thanks,

Jason

If its a two cycle motor, you mix in the oil no matter what. Otherwise you'll no longer have a motor :lol:
 
I agree totally with dyeguy1212. No matter what additive you choose, always add the proper ratio of TCW-3 oil to the gas. Don't ever let someone tell you different!!!!! [-X

cajuncook1
 
cajuncook1 said:
I agree totally with dyeguy1212. No matter what additive you choose, always add the proper ratio of TCW-3 oil to the gas. Don't ever let someone tell you different!!!!! [-X

cajuncook1


Thanks Guys,

I had a way newer mercury before and never had these problems. I got some new fuel and threw in some 2 cycle oil and the ten dollar gumout and that seemed to do the trick. I am going to order a carb kit and do it right just to make sure.
 
Thanks Guys,

I had a way newer mercury before and never had these problems. I got some new fuel and threw in some 2 cycle oil and the ten dollar gumout and that seemed to do the trick. I am going to order a carb kit and do it right just to make sure.

If you have it running well with the new fuel, oil and gum out then leave the carb alone( You apparently have cleared the out the carb). Know the old saying?.....If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Order the carb kit and if starts giving you trouble then use the carb kit. You said at the beginning of the thread you already did a carb job.

Happy fishing!!

cajuncook1
 
cajuncook1 said:
Thanks Guys,

I had a way newer mercury before and never had these problems. I got some new fuel and threw in some 2 cycle oil and the ten dollar gumout and that seemed to do the trick. I am going to order a carb kit and do it right just to make sure.

If you have it running well with the new fuel, oil and gum out then leave the carb alone( You apparently have cleared the out the carb). Know the old saying?.....If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Order the carb kit and if starts giving you trouble then use the carb kit. You said at the beginning of the thread you already did a carb job.

Happy fishing!!

cajuncook1

Like I stated before, there are only a few reasons why you would need to reuild a carb. Some people think that by replacing gaskets and cleaning it will do the trick. It all depends on what is going on with the motor and the signs and symtoms of your problem.


If you have a 2 cycle engine the only way the engine gains its lubrication as well as cooling properties comes from the additive of the 2 cycle oil. That is why I tell people to use a good quality carberator cleaner/ lubricator. Dont EVER use one of those Octaine boosters in your 2 cycle engine. All that is doing is displacing the ethenall and raising your octane count. If you do that you would need to add more 2 cycle oil to keep the ratio according to your engines manual. Carberator treatment systems have special lubricating properties that help keep the motor in balance while the cleaning properties take care of the gunk that is hindering the fine tuning adjustments needed for a carberator to run efficietly and smoothly.

I am glad that we got the problem taken care of, now go fishing and have fun.
 
cajuncook1 said:
Thanks Guys,

I had a way newer mercury before and never had these problems. I got some new fuel and threw in some 2 cycle oil and the ten dollar gumout and that seemed to do the trick. I am going to order a carb kit and do it right just to make sure.

If you have it running well with the new fuel, oil and gum out then leave the carb alone( You apparently have cleared the out the carb). Know the old saying?.....If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Order the carb kit and if starts giving you trouble then use the carb kit. You said at the beginning of the thread you already did a carb job.

Happy fishing!!

cajuncook1

Hey Cajun,

That was another guy looks like he is having the same issues. I did already rebuild the card so I am gonna try wishbones method as soon as I get a chance and hopefully it will take care of it, if it doesn't I aint sure what to do......
 
WISHBONE said:
cajuncook1 said:
Thanks Guys,

I had a way newer mercury before and never had these problems. I got some new fuel and threw in some 2 cycle oil and the ten dollar gumout and that seemed to do the trick. I am going to order a carb kit and do it right just to make sure.

If you have it running well with the new fuel, oil and gum out then leave the carb alone( You apparently have cleared the out the carb). Know the old saying?.....If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Order the carb kit and if starts giving you trouble then use the carb kit. You said at the beginning of the thread you already did a carb job.

Happy fishing!!

cajuncook1

Like I stated before, there are only a few reasons why you would need to reuild a carb. Some people think that by replacing gaskets and cleaning it will do the trick. It all depends on what is going on with the motor and the signs and symtoms of your problem.


If you have a 2 cycle engine the only way the engine gains its lubrication as well as cooling properties comes from the additive of the 2 cycle oil. That is why I tell people to use a good quality carberator cleaner/ lubricator. Dont EVER use one of those Octaine boosters in your 2 cycle engine. All that is doing is displacing the ethenall and raising your octane count. If you do that you would need to add more 2 cycle oil to keep the ratio according to your engines manual. Carberator treatment systems have special lubricating properties that help keep the motor in balance while the cleaning properties take care of the gunk that is hindering the fine tuning adjustments needed for a carberator to run efficietly and smoothly.

I am glad that we got the problem taken care of, now go fishing and have fun.

HAHA nope not my issue but someone elses, hopefully mine will get cleared up though!
 
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