replace a drain plug channel

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crankbait09

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I was wondering how to go about changing the drain plug on an aluminum flat bottom jon boat.
the the channel that the boat plug goes in to is rather flared. Is there a way to fix the flared channel opening or make a whole new drain hole all together?

why do i want to do this? The drain plug doesnt seem to fit very tight and its hard getting the plug in and out due to the location of the hole. Cant tighten or loosen very well. I thought about putting the plug in from the outside of the boat, but the hole is a tad smaller than the plug. I thought about filing or cutting the opening a little bigger but am afraid of ruining it even more.

any thoughts or help?
 
I DO, ITS A 1" DRAIN AND DRAIN PLUG.. (sorry for the caps), when I say its not a tight fit, im talking leak proof. it is tight, but still drips slightly.......
 
To fix an out of round condition drive an appropriately sized deep well socket into the hole with a long extension and walk the end of the socket around where the tube isn't nice. If the bore is rough or there is weld built up on the outside end you can use some 180 sandpaper to deburr it.
 
maybe I am not thinking this all the way through but........

I am sticking a deepwell into the flared end of the drain, right? won't that flare the end out even more???

my buddy has a boat (fiberglass) and his drain plug is actually located outside the boat. I really like that location due to ease of getting the plug in and out.

i am posting a picture of my situation......let me know your thoughts.
 

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its kind of one of those how bad do you want it deals....

a good welding shop can fix that right up for ya....cut the old out, and weld a new one in there... wont be cheap though...

you could cut the old tube, out, clean everything up, get it ready to weld the new tube back in and save a little bit...


i have no advice on how to get the "flare" reformed...maybe CAREFULLY trim the end off with a cutoff blade being careful to not nick the hull...

i think id go the welding route and put a new tube, but im a fabricator and i forget some people arent as handy with grinders and such......i can see how youd have fits trying to get the plug to seat properly..
 
i would not want my plug to go in from the outside... ive never seen a jonboat set up that way...

but i guess you could if you really wanted to...if youre gonna rework the hole at a welding shop anyway, just let them know you want to plug from the outside...

jonboats are meant to be dragged on the ground, over logs, or whatever else...cant have the plug getting snagged and yanked out!!!
 
My drain plugs are on the outside on my jetboat, as well as my Triton.

100_4251.jpg

These are plastic drain plug assemblies that you can buy at places like West Marine. To fit into an existing drain plug hole, you'll need to use a large Unabit, and bore the drain hole out just a little bit. Then, you use some RTV Ultra Black sealant, press the assembly in place, and secure with 2 stainless screws.


Note there are 2 drain plugs on this boat, since it's a jet, the tunnel doesn't allow water on the port side to run out the starboard side drain hole, so, I installed one on the port side. The reason they're external is because space is so tight in the engine compartment, it's a real PITA to access a plug from inside.


On my Triton, it's a single plug, in the very center of the boat. Reason it's on the outside is because the transom brace is right on top of the drain plug area, and because of that, it's a PITA to access the plug in this boat, too.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=324270#p324270 said:
PSG-1 » 30 Jul 2013, 20:12[/url]"]My drain plugs are on the outside on my jetboat, as well as my Triton.



These are plastic drain plug assemblies that you can buy at places like West Marine. To fit into an existing drain plug hole, you'll need to use a large Unabit, and bore the drain hole out just a little bit. Then, you use some RTV Ultra Black sealant, press the assembly in place, and secure with 2 stainless screws.


Note there are 2 drain plugs on this boat, since it's a jet, the tunnel doesn't allow water on the port side to run out the starboard side drain hole, so, I installed one on the port side. The reason they're external is because space is so tight in the engine compartment, it's a real PITA to access a plug from inside.


On my Triton, it's a single plug, in the very center of the boat. Reason it's on the outside is because the transom brace is right on top of the drain plug area, and because of that, it's a PITA to access the plug in this boat, too.


good idea with the thru hull fittings... i never thought of that for a new drain...
 
good idea with the thru hull fittings... i never thought of that for a new drain...


Another reason I did it this way was because I bent my drain plug tube and the last 2 inches of that strake when I struck an underwater pipe, and the plug never fit right afterward, not to mention being difficult to access.
 
PSG-1

would you mind posting a picture or link of the item that you used to make the plastic drain plug assembly. id like to see what you are referring to exactly
 
I used to sail catamarans and they had plugs like these in the hulls. We needed to drain them every few days/weeks. It was funny to see when folks forgot to put them back in they would get about 100yards and realize they were taking on water. It happened to me as well, fortunately the plugs have a V-shaped prong which prevents them from falling out easily. #-o Jump overboard screw them back in and head to shore and re-drain lol.
 
LOL, led junkie! :LOL2:

I've been operating sailboats since the late 1980's, and a lot of people I knew also had sailboats, so, I'm quite familiar with that mistake.

My first sailboat was a 14' aqua cat. My current sailboat is a little 12' Hobie Bravo.
 
They've worked great for me, on both my boats. As long as you use RTV and properly seal it, they won't leak a drop. And they're much easier to access. Only drawback is that you can't run along and pull the drain plug out to let water run out, like you would do with an internal drain plug. Doesn't bother me too much, as my boats have bilge pumps with float switches.
 
Have you tried a wheel cylinder Hone take it slow...Also there are the drain plugs with T handle that you insert and tighten up have you tried that..Probably have ..Muffler shops use a ( not sure whats called) I call it flaring tool..That they stick in pipe a few inches and tighten it and it increases size /or rounds out damaged pipe then hone out...Another way is take a long body hole saw of exact size and ream out (straight and centered)..then hone..Remember to take it slow and if there is a out of round weld it could get damaged...Just some Ideas if weld in is out of price range my2c
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=324433#p324433 said:
cva34 » Today, 09:24[/url]"]Have you tried a wheel cylinder Hone take it slow...Also there are the drain plugs with T handle that you insert and tighten up have you tried that..Probably have ..Muffler shops use a ( not sure whats called) I call it flaring tool..That they stick in pipe a few inches and tighten it and it increases size /or rounds out damaged pipe then hone out...Another way is take a long body hole saw of exact size and ream out (straight and centered)..then hone..Remember to take it slow and if there is a out of round weld it could get damaged...Just some Ideas if weld in is out of price range my2c

Honing stones don't play well with aluminum. He has 2 problems. One is on the inside the diameter is blown open like a funnel and won't hold the plug. Number two is on the outside the weld is globbed on the right side. He could file the glob of weld, then work that diameter true with sandpaper on a dowel and pray he doesn't cut through the weld...

Or he can just cut the whole works out and replace it with the plastic setup.
 
wait, so if i install one of these plug assemblies, you can't remove the plug to drain?

I have used the lever type plugs where you stick the plug in and close the lever to seal the plug in place.....those suck! I have also used the T shape ones where you screw it in, and it gets tighter the more you twist. those have worked really well for me. but with the drain location it is hard to get to to easily/quickly to remove/replace.
 
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