Running Wiring

[97Aero]

I have a G3 1860 CCJ and have just installed a 3 bank onboard charger in the center console. Hookups to the trolling motor batteries were only a couple of feet but I am trying to get my third bank run to the starting battery in the back. From what I can tell the wiring runs the length of the starboard side above foam on the side panels. I can get a fish tape starting in the back where the engine cables/control wring go thru the back deck almost all the way to the console but can't figure out a way for the cabling to run down from the side, under floor and back up under the console.

Do these side panels have to come off to run the wires? Looks like I would have to drill out a couple of dozen rivets to get it off and make the transition underfloor. I am stumped. Somebody ran transducer wires on this path that much I do know.
Thanks

 

[TNtroller]

Can you follow any other wiring from the CC back to the main motor, such as the wiring for the electric start switch, any other instruments (tach, fuel gauge, etc) ?

 

[97Aero]

TNtroller » 05 Dec 2013, 08:09[/url]"]Can you follow any other wiring from the CC back to the main motor, such as the wiring for the electric start switch, any other instruments (tach, fuel gauge, etc) ?

Exactly what I am trying to do follow the main engine controls/wiring back as well. Used a fish tape as well as heavy duty safety wire and can't figure out how to make the bends underfloor and to the side wall.

Thanks

 

[TNtroller]

You could use the existing wire as the "pull wire or fish tape" if you willing to go that route. could be risky but also successful.

 

[huntinfool]

Yep, use the transducer wire to pull your fish tape then pull both back, with an additional fish wire for future use. However as stated, pulling the transducer wire could fail by getting hung up and then you have to take it apart.
Personally I'd take the chance.

 

[97Aero]

Thanks everyone. Talked to the G3 tech reps and on that boat the only real way to do it is to drill off the side panel. Drilled it off and exposed all the wiring. Making the run underfloor was pretty easy after that. This gave me a reason to dress out the wires to my standard (I am a Aviation Electrical Engineer) I suppose in later models of this boat they put a wire conduit according to the tech rep which would make it much easier.
Anyway all is well now.

 

[Bob Landry]

I ran into the same thing with my G3. It was a salt water boat and needed to be rewired. You can not use an existing wire as a messenger to pull new wire because the entire bundle is tie-wrapped at various points. For those anticipating doing this, you can use a drill bit larger than the rivet head to take off the flanged head. Then you can drift the shank of the rivet towards the hull. The whole process is pretty gentle, just take your time. When you put it back, use1/2"- 3/16" dia. aluminum rivets.

While you have the side cover off, this is a good time to rewire the boat with the appropriate type and size wire. The wire they use is the type that has a varnish coating on the individual strands and it makes it hard to beta good crimp connection. G3 also used SAE wire throughout the boat. It is smaller in size compared to AWG wire and carries 12-18% less current. The trolling motor wire was also #8 and I upgraded it to #6 and used tinned marine wire for everything. I also used extra heat shrink where the wires went through the stringers, just to eliminate the possibility of chaffing and shorts.

Replace all of the wire with marine grade wire, use quality crimp connectors and heat shrink, and you should never have to go into that panel again except maybe to replace engine cables. Mine were rely corroded and also had to be replaced.