aclaimsman said:
The plate states 35 Max HP. I do know that in 1983 the motor was badged as a 40, but in 1984 they badged it to a 35. That leads me to believe that the HP rating was changed. I do think that you guys are right about the transom and steering, and will just leave it alone. I love the boat, but hate the motor as it is slow as a snail.
How are you measuring your boat speed? More importantly, how fast do you want to go?
Is the engine healthy (good compression, regular tuneups, water-separating fuel filters, etc.)?
Do you have a tachometer in the boat? If so, how many rpm will the engine turn at full throttle, trimmed up for speed, with a typical load in the boat? The full throttle rpm should be at or near the engine manufacturer's recommended max rpm.
Rpm too high? Try a propeller with more pitch (1" of pitch=150-200rpm). Rpm too low? Try a prop with less pitch (1" of pitch=150-200rpm).
No tach? Borrow a "tiny-tach" (a very small inductive tachometer) from a marine technician/dealer to get the rpm readings you need.
Something else to consider is boat weight. Find out from Tracker what the boat should weigh, then weigh the boat, and compare your numbers. If your boat is substantially heavier than it ought to be, chances are that the floatation foam under the casting decks, cockpit sole, etc. has absorbed water over the past 27 years.
Locate some of the floatation foam and press down on it -- the foam should deform a bit, but if the floatation material feels "squishy", it's gotta go.
The plywood decks and floor can also become saturated, especially when covered with carpet. In a few inconspicuous areas, use an ice pick or nail to check for water damage to the plywood.
Water weighs about 8lbs per gallon, so a little water here and a bit of water there can quickly add up to a bunch of excess weight.
Just some things that I've encountered in my travels; I could be completely wrong, too.
Good luck.