Tracker Seadoo Jet Jon Build

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CedarRiverScooter said:
Looking good! What kind of paint are you going to use?
Used automotive paint. Urethane primer / dry base silver / multi panel clear coat

Question: Do I need to vent my engine compartment for fuel fumes? How should I do that if so? A Blower?
bdeemo said:
Question: Do I need to vent my engine compartment for fuel fumes? How should I do that if so? A Blower?

Inboard engines are required to have a blower and compartment ventilation as per USCG regs. I installed mine by cutting a hole with a hole saw just small enough that the blower fits very tight from underneath. Also, I welded an aluminum angle bracket to the underside of the deck for an attachment point of the blower bracket.

Then I fabricated a cowl to fit over it, with a small slot for the opening, elevated off the deck about 2 inches to keep water from running in there. The slot faces forward, so that air is forced in there as the boat is underway.

For the vent that lets air escape, I have a small ramp-shaped duct about 2 inches high, that faces rearward. Because of the height of the fuel tank and fuel pump, and the wire hookup, I didn't have enough clearance to set it under the deck. Hence, the dual-purpose vent/clearance modification.

Here's a picture, for visual reference. Vents are to the port side (right side of the photo) The larger one at the rear is the blower, and the smaller ramped one at the front is the vent. Pay no attention to the faked-down coil of black dock line, LOL

Thanks PSG. I might do a blower soon. Do you think I run the risk of overheating with my engine compartment? or overpressurizing?

More pix of paint:
New impeller finally came from Skat-trak. It got lost on the assembly line, so I called Glenn and he cleared it right up and got it shipped the same day I called him. I went with a 15/20 stainless swirl impeller to replace the 17/25 stock impeller. It ran me around $300. It came with the rubber boot seal for the impeller and the splined removal tool. I bought a wear ring off of ebay for $20. Make sure to get a wear ring with the lip on the end, the other ones don't seal very well if you get the really cheap ones. (Or so i was told)

Impeller install was fairly easy... hardest part being the removal of the wear ring. For those who want to replace a wear ring, the white/clear part of the jet pump surround is actually part of the wear ring too. I had a hell of a time trying to take just the black off, and was kicking myself in the head after I realized it was all one piece. (duh)

Heres the new impeller compared to the old
You really need to be vented and should be using forced air. Mine vents from the front edge of the deck at three places and out the back of the dog house. I've never smelled gas under the covers and always check before firing the engine.

Without good venting any fuel vapor will build up in the bilges and will light off at the worse possible time. I parted out a old glass jet boat that blew apart (literally). The fire extinguisher was useless and it was a total loss.
Didn't like the way trimming around the tracker decals came out, so I took them off and repainted the sides. Then got the boat registered and put the CF numbers on

Decided to bedliner the interior, here are floor and side kits prepped for paint
Did a gray base bedliner, then sprayed a speckle of white over it.
Came out good!!!
Then did decals on side, and hydro turf on back deck.
Now that the interior is done, I decided to take it to the lake. Unfortunately I couldn't get it running in the driveway first. So I've got some questions, since no one on PWCToday can seem to help.

I rebuilt top end, ran nicely. I blipped throttle with water hose hooked up for cooling, and it died. I tried to quickly disconnect hose before it filled up, but im afraid I got some water in there. I'm aware of how to get water out of a PWC so I took plugs out, turned over alternating my thumb in each plug hole, and sprayed plugs off with carb cleaner and put back in starting with choke on full and throttle on full. Repeated this process like 30 times. Still wouldn't start. Somewhere along the way something happened, because now what happens is this:

Doesn't seem to want to fire.
I have spark on both plugs
If I pour a capfull of gas in each cylinder, no change. Same with starter fluid. I feel like theres some water residue dirtying the plugs or something. I also heard that this ski, 717 rotax, is known for weak spark. I'm thinking of replacing my spark plug wires.

I just rebuilt both carbs and still same problem. One of the carbs had a bit of rust inside.

do you have a mikuni sb or sbn carb, if so remove it with all hoses still hooked up . turn over the engine is fuel dripping from bottom of carb while trying to start it
Hmmmm. I would check the flywheel to make sure you have not sheared the key. If you have spark and have introduced gasoline into the cylinders, it should fire, given you have compression. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks guys! What is the key? That's a good idea to check carbs with them out
I have a thread on pwctoday in yamaha it's called yamaha 64x rebuild attempt. Mine did something similar. Pulled flywheel to find key sheared.
Here are a couple pics. Also don't order a pwc flywheel fuller just go to oreilys and rent a harmonic balancer puller much easier. There are you tube vids and a good one on the sbt website in the forum tech videos to pull it if you haven't done so before.


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I'll try and rule some things out before I suspect the key being sheared. How do you know if its sheared? Only by taking it apart and looking? What does a sheared key actually do to the engine?
it connects the flywheel to crank and magneto stator times the flywheel so if key is sheared it will just spin flywheel and cant really turn over engine well or timed. Its really easy to check It would take you about 15 minutes to find out if keys shear'd

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