What size pop rivets?

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yes, the manufacturer's description is not clear to me either.

okay - I just popped this rivet that is in the plastic box.
Pop Rivets.jpg
alum rivet 006.JPG
alum rivet 001.JPG
alum rivet 002.JPG
alum rivet 003.JPG
This is what I use as my standard pop rivet doing metal work
1/4" and less. so, pictured above is two 1/8" pieces of flat bar.
I am not a rivet expert - so please draw your own conclusions.

back when I had my commercial sign shop, I fabricated or repaired
dozens and dozens of illuminated sign cabinets using this rivet.
I have poped hundreds and hundreds of this same rivet holding
.040" aluminum panel to 1/8" or 3/16" angle framework.

this is all the information I can give you.




.
 
Based on your photos and the doubled 1/8" bars adding to 1/4" it appears the left measurement of 7/16" is correct and the graphic for the 1/4" grip range is misleading.

Thanks for the photos Johnny. They clear it up.
 
The physical length of the rivet is 7/16" the grip range is 1/4". The rivet has to be slightly longer then the material being riveted in order to pull it up tight.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
The physical length of the rivet is 7/16" the grip range is 1/4". The rivet has to be slightly longer then the material being riveted in order to pull it up tight.

I get that it has to be slightly longer than the material being fastened. My question is can they be to long? Looks to me like the ball of the rivet just keeps retracting until the rivet is tight. So let's say I'm joining the two pieces of 1/8", will a 1"rivet do as good of a job as the ones Johnny posted?
 
in a pinch, when I have not had the correct length rivet on hand,
yes, I have used much longer rivets than required with no ill effects.
also, in my work, I have seen all kinds of mis-matched sizes to the material.
will it hurt anything ? IMHO - no - but, you should check all your fasteners once
a year or so anyway. If any are loose, replace them and maybe use the back-up washer.
asstd..jpg
long rivet 005.JPG
long rivet 001.JPG
long rivet 002.JPG
long rivet 004.JPG
The "Back-Up Plate" is used where the hole is larger
than the rivet's stem after being tightened.
sometimes called a Backer Washer - Aluminum

This is an example of an aluminum sign cabinet
that I have made in my shop. The largest one
was 20 feet long, 4 feet tall and 8" deep.
Hundreds of rivets of different sizes !!!
Sign Cabinet.jpg
 
Thanks Johnny. I've installed my first few pieces of framing and I believe it's pretty good. I'm certain that by the rules my rivets are to long but seem to be doing the job.
 
good to hear.

the secret to getting a good secure joint is to ensure the two pieces
of metal are as tight as you can possible get them before the rivet pops.
if you have a slight gap in the two pieces or under the rivet head,
this "could" lead to loose rivet issues down the river.
rivet gap.JPG

good luck in your journey !!

photos of your project as you progress will be appreciated by the gallery.
 
Johnny, have you ever used or heard of successful use of closed head rivets on boat hulls below the water line? Or do I need to do the whole bucking thing?
Also, if I fill this boat up with water to find leaks, do I just fill up to the floor? How hi do you go? Sorry to bother you but you seem to be the tinboat encyclopedia.

Thanks

Chuck
 
:LMFAO: encyclopedia :LMFAO: that's funny right there (Google is my friend).


nooooooo I am not the final authority on any subject!!

my dear old mother used to say - - - opinions and techniques are like noses,
everybody has one. But I like MINE the best.

I have been pretty fortunate over the years to have experienced very few leaky rivets.
Yes, I have used regular and closed end pop rivets below the waterline.
my personal choice, with the boat on the trailer somewhat level,
fill the boat up with water to the waterline where it sits when you are using it.
Hopefully, I will be doing my bare hull Crestliner the same way this weekend.
some people like to put 3M-5200 inside the rivet stem, around the rivet body
and under the rivet bead prior to popping. Then after it is popped, force the
sealant into the hole, front and back, smooth out with the finger and move on to the next one.
a bit messy, but it works. Good clean surfaces is the key to any good fabrication.
Closed End.png







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