1984 Pike Attacker rebuild

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Thanks bigwrench! I've been following your build as well.

The plywood you see on the bow is actually the plywood for the transom as I'm still working back there. Still have a few other things and mods I want to do to this before spring.
Such as;
Add a live-well into the front bench seat which I've already sourced a poly tank that will fit.
Add a deck and seat mount forward of the front bench. Along with more flotation foam.
Raise the helm station and build lockable storage compartment under it.
Rewire and add a fuse block which it never had.

Still debating whether I want to use foam board or pour foam to replace what was removed.

Lots to do still.
 
bonz_d said:
Still debating whether I want to use foam board or pour foam to replace what was removed.
I also have this dilemma, I really would like to go back with the pour foam but confused on how I would make sure that the floor drains all the way to the back if water got in the boat (which is a given). Wiring I will run through PVC I think so that will be ok. Hopefully you get to your foam first so I can copy ya lol
 
Bigwrench, not sure of your Bass Attacker but this Pike has an inherent drainage problem, as in no matter how high I raise the bow there is always water in the stern that will not drain. The bottom of the drain tube is about 1/2" above the bottom so there is always that much left and it covers the whole stern.

The water will run feely to the stern but pools there. It also seeps under the sides and into the flotation foam boxes on each side. So the bottom 3" of foam in there was saturated.

I'm trying to figure how I'm going to foam that area yet try and keep the foam off the bottom and out of the water.
 
Still undecided as to which way to but this transom back together. Question, from the pictures which way looks best? Should I still put that small splash-well back in or leave it out? It's not adding much to the structure and doesn't cover the entire length of the transom now that I've raised the transom.





 
Personally i would put the splash-well back on but after i painted the gap to match the interior but that's just me.
 
Not much done these past few days as the temps have dropped and for now I have no heat in the garage. Spent yesterday putting plastic sheet up on the rafters to try and close in this building, eliminate some of the draftiness and just try to reduce the size of the area to heat.

While cleaning up the other day I did find a piece of cut-off 5/8" ply that will fit perfectly for a decking in the bow. I'll be doing this one the same way I had done a Lund S14 previously and that worked out very well. It is really a simple build using angle aluminum and a continuous length piano hinge.

The hinge gets attached so that the plywood is flush with the very front bench seat, hinges forward and the deck is level but about 3" below the middle bench seat. This also adds some well needed storage space.

As always I will add pictures as progress allows.
 
Nice work.
I just finished removing about 300lbs of foam from my 1984 lowe. Much of it was saturated and some kind of reaction caused corrosion where it contacted the hull.
 
vinnybagodonuts said:
Nice work.
I just finished removing about 300lbs of foam from my 1984 lowe. Much of it was saturated and some kind of reaction caused corrosion where it contacted the hull.

Post up some pictures if you can I'd love to see it.
 
Thanks for the compliment.

Things still going slowly, budget's a little tight ATM. Did spend another afternoon hanging plastic and hope to have that finished tomorrow. Then the test will begin as temps will be falling and I can then see how well it's going to hold heat. Then we'll see how cramped it gets once the snowblower is back on the tractor!

I can update on the DTM Latex paint. While working around the boat these past few days there have been a few occasions when I've dropped tools and things on it and it hasn't scratched. So it appears to be curing hard and I believe it will be just fine.. Again I'll keep updating this aspect as time goes on.
 
bonz_d said:
vinnybagodonuts said:
Nice work.
I just finished removing about 300lbs of foam from my 1984 lowe. Much of it was saturated and some kind of reaction caused corrosion where it contacted the hull.

Post up some pictures if you can I'd love to see it.
The foam on the bottom alone weighed 125lbs.
For some reason my pics always post upside down.
 

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Reduce the size of your pics and they will show correctly. At least that is what I found to happen.....:)
 
vinny that looks pretty nasty! Looks like there is no way to easily drain water from the bottom which is probably why you are seeing the waterlogged foam. The pitting and corrosion is also confusing. Was this a salt water boat? I haven't seen just wet foam cause a problem like this.

After you get all that foam out fill some water into it and tilt the bow up and watch if it runs back or is being dammed up and just sitting. At least that is what I'd do before moving on.

If you look back thru this thread you will see that this Sea Nymph has a drainage problem that is contained to the stern of the boat. I haven't decided how I'm going to address this issue yet though I do have a couple of ideas. I don't want to foam this only to have it reoccur and ruin the new foam.

Start a thread on your Lowe and I'll try to help as much as possible.
 
Looks good, your doing quality work.

I would leave the splash well out. It looks cleaner without it, and it is practically useless since you changed the transom.

I linked to your build from another where you recommended a wood treatment formula- 1 part mineral spirits, 1 part boiled linseed oil, and 2 parts spar, but on your thread you said you used 1 part spar urethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. So would you restate your formula for those of us looking to pick up tips along the way. Thanks

Looking forward to your progress
 
Thanks for the heads-up Va Larry, Will have to find that and correct it or ask a mod to do it. Do you recall where that post was?

The correct recipe is 1 part boiled linseed, 2 part mineral spirits and 1 part spar urethane. Followed by 2-3 coats of straight spar.

I have used this formula on 4 different boats so far and the results have been outstanding. Now it's not as good as encapsulating in epoxy but it's a lot less costly. Also epoxy is not UV resistant so any exposed epoxy needs to be painted.
 
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