1996 16' Lund Laker Project

[rscottp]

Emailed Uflex last night about bend radius, email returned Xmas morning! 9" Bend radius.

Merry Christmas to all!

 

[RStewart]

Looking good. Your boat looks like a bigger version of my little Rich Line. Can't wait to see it done. I've thought about putting rod boxes down the sides of mine also.

 

[rscottp]

Did a little work on the boat today. Installed new splash pan and drilled the holes for the drain tubes. Also attached a couple brackets in the front for the lowered casting deck. To remove the old seat brackets I ground off the rivet heads and worked the brackets free. Then I rebucked the rivets and coated with 5200. Trying to work out how to configure the storage up front so that I can get to my net without too much trouble.

 

[rscottp]

More progress today! Happy new year!

 

[rscottp]

One other thing I would like opinions on; I have always had a problem with debris getting under the floor beneath the casting deck. My idea is to completely seal up the edges of the floor(caulk of glueing vinyl down like flashing around the edges). I drilled 3 1"dia holes(you can see in first pic above) so that if water did get in there it could drain out quickly.

thanks!

 

[Humj7]

Looking good.
As far as sealing the casting deck I do not have any ideas for you. But I know from my experience I myself am not good enough with caulk gun to make it look nice.( looking at my bathroom tube surround.)
Sounds like good idea let us know how it turns out.
Thanks

 

[DuraCraft]

Looking great! How long is ye boat? Maybe you said and I forgot. That's what I tell me wife anyway...

 

[rscottp]

Humj7 » 30 Dec 2013, 21:20[/url]"]Looking good.
As far as sealing the casting deck I do not have any ideas for you. But I know from my experience I myself am not good enough with caulk gun to make it look nice.( looking at my bathroom tube surround.)
Sounds like good idea let us know how it turns out.
Thanks

My plan is to seal the little floor that is under the casting deck. It really doesn't matter how crappy it looks under there, just wanna keep the dirt, sand and leaves from getting below it.

 

[rscottp]

DuraCraft » 30 Dec 2013, 21:23[/url]"]Looking great! How long is ye boat? Maybe you said and I forgot. That's what I tell me wife anyway...

16 feet.

 

[Centrarchidae]

To seal the lower floor, I think putting flashing around the edges of the floor would be your best bet. You could fab something with some thin aluminum sheet and caulk between the side of the boat and the flashing and then between the flashing and the floor piece. Even better might be to attach the flashing with adhesive that could also act as a sealant as well. I guess it depends if you want to be able to remove that section of floor for any reason in the future though.

If you need to be able to remove the floor, you might be able to get some thick soft gasket material and fit it around the floor to form a seal. I've used some really soft rubber hose as gasket material on a different project and it worked quite well.

 

[rscottp]

Centrarchidae » 01 Jan 2014, 23:43[/url]"]To seal the lower floor, I think putting flashing around the edges of the floor would be your best bet. You could fab something with some thin aluminum sheet and caulk between the side of the boat and the flashing and then between the flashing and the floor piece. Even better might be to attach the flashing with adhesive that could also act as a sealant as well. I guess it depends if you want to be able to remove that section of floor for any reason in the future though.

If you need to be able to remove the floor, you might be able to get some thick soft gasket material and fit it around the floor to form a seal. I've used some really soft rubber hose as gasket material on a different project and it worked quite well.

If I get it sealed up good there will be no reason to remove the floor. I like the idea of glueing the whatever I use for the flashing to the side of the boat. I think I will use some vinyl flooring, I can cut it larger than the plywood floor then extend it up the side. Then use some type of glue/sealant to attach it.

 

[rscottp]

No boating today!

 

[Humj7]

Looks like Michigan. This morning it was -7 on the thermometer.
At last this should be short lived for you correct ?

 

[rscottp]

Humj7 » 03 Jan 2014, 22:08[/url]"]Looks like Michigan. This morning it was -7 on the thermometer.
At last this should be short lived for you correct ?

Forecast says 51 on monday, should melt it all.

 

[Gators5220]

I like how your boat is comin together man, nice center console. Hopefully you guys are staying warm, and you get a chance soon to work on it.

 

[rscottp]

Way too cold to mess with the boat today! Couldn't resist throwing CC in the boat to see how it will look. I can't wait till spring!

 

[Humj7]

Looks great !!
Glad to see your snow went away !
We have had 18" of the white stuff over the last 3 days.

 

[rscottp]

After I finished work that pays I got a little done on the boat. Installed new drain tubes and stern eyes. I didn't want to spend the 40 bucks for the flare tool, used a ball peen hammer to flare the end(as a fellow tin boater suggested). It worked well and saved some $$.

It was 30 here today, felt like 70!

 

[DewNut]

Very nice! I have a '97 Lund Rebel (14 foot) that I would like to convert to center console... how hard is it, what's involved and how much does it cost to convert tiller to CC? I have a 2012 Evinride Etec 25HP tiller.

 

[rscottp]

DewNut » 10 Jan 2014, 11:50[/url]"]Very nice! I have a '97 Lund Rebel (14 foot) that I would like to convert to center console... how hard is it, what's involved and how much does it cost to convert tiller to CC? I have a 2012 Evinride Etec 25HP tiller.

Thanks. I am not sure about the cost yet, I have been watching ebay for deals on parts. I think I will be around $300 for steering, cables, ect. I got the binnacle for $40 on ebay(good deal IMO). I think the hardest part will be to rout and hook up the steering cable, I want it hidden and am anxious about making all the bends.