Badbaggers SeaArk 1872 Modification & Restoration Project

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Badbagger said:
Thanks Dave, when I get in from work I'll do some checking and more reading. Local board members also HIGHLY recommend one. Boat is NOT a tunnel but folks at Bob's still recommend one.

BB

Good morning bro,

It would be almost pointless to have a tunnel and not get the motor up, but that doesn’t mean a non tunnel hull can’t benefit from a jack plate. A tunnel hull will let you run shallower than a conventional fiberglass flats boat but it doesn’t necessarily float any shallower. That’s why so many of us our going to the tins because first and foremost they are so much lighter than there fiberglass counterparts. Therefore they float and run shallower. The other benefit of a tunnel is it lets you get the boat up on plane in shallower water because the tunnel allows water to free flow back to the motor; in fact it helps funnel the water back and pushes it upwards so the prop can have something to bite.

Tunnel hulls are bad *** for skinny water but a non tunnel flat bottom tin or a mod V tin with just a little bit of deadrise will outperform most fiberglass tunnels everyday of the week and twice on Sunday, but we need to still get the motor up. If there is any downside to a jack plate it would be a reduction in water flow for the cooling system. You just have to watch the pisser/telltale and make sure it’s spraying.
Some guys have the lower unit modified for a low water pick up, it really depends on how shallow you run. I was running my 1448 in about 6 inches of water. I’m going to see how the 1752 does. I might let Bob’s do my low water pic up. Another $600 Hey its only money. :LOL2:
 
Thanks Dave, well decided to bite the bullet on a jack plate. I have to get the version with an internal pump. With 4 batteries and an external oil tank, I"m running out of room in the stern. Atlas looks decent and pretty popular BUT seems they have their issues from my reading.
Looks like I'll go with a Bob's Action Jackplate. Found it for $865 plus tax and shipping in state. Working with the folks at jmsonline.net on a price match and I won't pay tax. Just need to hunt a water pressure gauge next. Spent the afternoon emailing Bob's Tech Support and other boat related stuff...
 
Very cool BB,
My friend has been running the CMC from T-H marine for almost four years now and hasn’t had any issues. It’s a fully self-contained electrical hydraulic. Electrical motor running a hydraulic pump. He’s running a Merc 150 HP optimax or optipop as many reefer to them. :LOL2: Anyway I believe that motor weights somewhere around the 450lbs range. A good 50lbs more than my Yamaha so I got the same one.


https://www.cabelas.com/product/CMC-PL-65-Transom-Jack-Plates-by-T-H-Marine/700020.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3DJack%2Bplate%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts%26x%3D14%26y%3D2&Ntt=Jack+plate&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products
 
Well played a bit today removing a few things like the fuel gauge (pain in the azz in tight quarters and big mitts). I'm now wondering on my jack plate. I do like the thought of a self contained unit with the pump built into the unit. However, of some concern is the fact that the pump is so close to the salt water and will be exposed and get WET. On the standard units with the separate pump, Bob's recommends they be placed in a DRY area. Now my wondering.... with 4 batteries and an external oil tank I am running out of storage room. I'm thinking I can place the hydraulic pump under the console next to the external oil tank. My question IF anyone knows is the size of the pump. I'm wondering IF the pump will fit into a battery box? Say a group 27 or group 31.

Also decided to add to additional gauges. Hour meter on the console and also a water pressure gauge for the jack plate. Just kind of put some circles on the attached pic. Going to cut the console Monday or Tuesday before the run to Sarasota. Last minute decision :LOL2:
 

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I finally finished prepping, paint tomorrow. :mrgreen:

Brother the pump is sealed up in a thick case of CC machined aluminum, you could submerge it and water won’t get in. See if there are any revues out there on them. My buddy fishes mostly salt like me and like I said, going on four years now and no issues.

I keep forgetting the E-TEC’s are two strokes. It’s just a lot simpler not to have another external pump and reservoir. Even though the pumps and reservoir aren’t huge if you’re going to mount them under the console then you now have a hydraulic line issue. You’re going to have to get longer lines and then run them though a rigging tube.
If you’re going to get a Jack plate with an external pump you should keep the pump/reservoir as close to the Jack plate as possible. I would move batteries forward.
 
Thanks Dave. I can move the batteries forward about 4 to 5' under the console which should keep more weight off the stern even if only a few ft.
 
Well boat is stripped down as much as it's going to get. Finished up today. I've spent a couple of days second guessing myself on color for paint and she's going on Wednesday so I've gotta decide.

First thought was all white like the attached pic of the G3 I just sold and still will be to a point. She'll have a black linex rub rail. Been toying with the idea of painting the top half of the sides similar to Dave and undecided on color. At one point I'd been tossing around fighting lady yellow. Just snapped this pic and here's another members boat.

Thoughts or suggestions welcomed.
 

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All personal preference bro,

I’ve always like classic white but I wanted to mix it up a little. The blue is the same color I painted my Mako with. I’m going to stencil the name in white on the blue strip so it will highlight the contrast.
Yes I like big motors :LOL2:
 

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Well just an update. Made the decision to stick with classic white, it's timeless and a pretty safe bet. Here's a couple of shots of the green monster hooked up to the truck and ready to role out of here at 3 am to Sarasota. Also placed my order for a Bob's Action Jackplate with a 6" setback so we're rolling. Linex and paint should be about a week. Paid the Etec 115 off earlier today so little by little. Once she's back from the trip, time to start. Also ordered a new steering wheel to spruce up the console and John from Florida Marine Plastics is going to hook me up with custom rod holders and a new black top for my console made from Starboard in black.

Then it'll be time to hook up my Garmin GPSMAP 720 and order the Lowrance 12 Touch unit and a top for some shade.
 

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Hey bro that is one hell of a boat,

It’s going to come out great. You’re rolling. I salute you getting up at 3 to run to Sarasota. :USA1: Get some sleep. O and plenty of pics please. :mrgreen:
 
Well we made it back. 11 hours and 45 minutes round trip including the old rest room and gas breaks and going over the boat with Brian at Sarasota Linex. Now the wait begins, it'll be 2 weeks or possibly 3 but a completely different boat when she's done. They use the new Linex 650 material for boats and the stuff is indestructible. Same stuff they run on the hurricane hunter vehicles.
 

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Man o man, I cant wait till the linex goes on. The things we do for our tins......nice to know linex is in sarasota for future mod.
 
Hey man that will be really cool,

Now just don’t get any funny ides and start hunting hurricanes. :LOL2: 2 ta 3 weeks is going to drive you crazy. The anticipation of driving up and seeing it for the first time with the Line-X is going to be off the chart. I think it’s going to look great but more importantly its tuff.
 
I've been through Andrew so I ain't huntin no canes lmoa [-X They do top notch work. Here's a photo of a Young skiff they did. Same color for the beast, off white.
 

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That is so badass,

The first time I scratch my paint I’m going to wish I did that. The up side is, the only thing on the inside of my boat that really has paint on it is the front bulkhead and the sides from the floor up to the rail. The aluminum floor will have duraliner, Line-X or alike. The front and rear decks are going to have Seadek “snow camo” on them. :mrgreen:
 

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That will look great on your boat. I'm going to use a SeaDek pad on the console right above the cooler kind of like the attached pic and have the name of the boat on the cover. May also do a SeaDek helm pad. The **** Linex is indestructible.
Two long *** drives but worth it in the end.
 

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Need an opinion. On the inside of the hull where the step up is to the front deck, I'm seriously considering having them do a Linex stencil in a dark gray or black to tie things in. I took their stenicl and played for 15 minutes in photoshop and this is pretty much what I'd end up with.

Yes, no or ?
 

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