Boat Trailer build

[Timbo89]

 

[Timbo89]

 

[Timbo89]

washers welded to the frame inner side.

 

[PSG-1]

That'll work! Nice looking MIG welds, too.

Looks like it's coming right along.

 

[Timbo89]

Thank you sir. I'm self taught with advice from a buddy that can lay down some welds like crazy. I have to order my springs and get a 2x2 to extend my axle with and ill be ready to load the boat on once I get bunks on and transfer over the rollers

 

[Timbo89]

Alright I have my springs on and im getting ready to give it a coat of primer and black enamel paint form tractor supply. I am wondering on my bunk boards not sure if thats what they are called but pretty sure. Right now the bunk boards on the bottom support are 2x4s with 2" being on top skinny side up. I was wanting to go to a 2x6 and lay board flat instad of upright. Im going to do the cutting board deal or price the deck board thats like a synthetic board so i dont have to carpet and it makes it easy to launch/load. Thanks

 

[PSG-1]

Most bunk board for small boats are 2x4's with the flat side facing up. Unless your boat is much larger than 18 ft, you should be OK with that size lumber.

No go on the synthetic deck boards, they are not like lumber, they will warp and sag. Now, you could possibly put down a 2x4 and then put the synthetic deck board on top of that, then it should be fine.

 

[Timbo89]

Thanks. I thought I was someone on here with the fake boards. Riggt now it has 2x4s with the noat resting on the 2" part.

So I can put the bunks 4" part facing up?

 

[PSG-1]

It's preferable to have the boat bearing against the wide part of the board, so the weight is spread out over a larger surface. In extreme cases, like, years of use, or having a lot of weight in the boat when you put it on the trailer, particularly if it's a thin hull, the skinny side would be prone to deforming the hull. Again, most of the factory-built trailers I have seen using 2x4's have the board with the flat side bearing against the hull.

 

[Timbo89]

Thanks for the info.

Paint I'm using. This stuff has a 24hr dry time between coats. rolling it on sucks big ones and I'm going to look into a spray gun, turn my garage into a booth.

 

[Timbo89]

I got ahead of myself and am going to have to strip some primer off for my fenders once i get the extra funds and mount my tail light brackets. Got excited i was almost done and forgot some things. It happens hahaha.

picture of the tounge welded on since i dont want holes in my tube. you can also see my ground studs i have one in the middle of the trailer for the amber marker lights. 2 in the back for the led tail lights and one in the front for the harness.


what im going to use on the back so i have a point to tie down and keep the boat from bouncing around like it does now


bottom so you can see the washers for the wire to go through. once i get it done ill put grommet in it to save the wire.

 

[PSG-1]

Looking good! Those washers make a good place to run and secure wire. Another thing I've seen used to run wires is a small piece of EMT conduit, like 1/2" diameter, welded along the trailer, with the wires passed through that.

 

[Timbo89]

Sorry guys but had to put the build on hold until we get christmas taken care of.

 

[RStewart]

You're doing a great job. I'm starting the same project. Our trailers will be almost identical except mine will still be a tilt trailer.I'm also using 2x3x1/8 rectangle tubing. I wanted to use "c"channel, but I couldn't find it. At least not the type of "c"channel used to build my current trailer. I got 48'of the rectangle tubing for $65, but I had to buy both 24'sticks to get it that cheap. I'm like you,I like to build things. Plus in my area I couldn't buy the trailer cheaper than me building it & it will be made for my boat. Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[Timbo89]

Well Christmas is done with and I'm still waiting on funds. Wife has been putting all extra funds into the nursery for our daughter that's due within the next two weeks.

I did how ever get the safety chain welded on my light brackets welded on and the back anchors welded on for the tie down straps. Only thing left now is extend axle to fit the new trailer, paint, bunks, winch, jack, and wire the lights up.

 

[Timbo89]

Axle is built and let me tell ya a round shaft in a square tube is a pita to get straight. Have a new winch for it along with the jack. I bought all the stuff I needed to spray the paint but now I cant get off of work. I'm still building it but little by little.


I do have a question that i'm not sure of. I've had a few people tell me to drill a small hole into the bottom of the tube so that if any moisture was inside the tube it wouldn't rust from the inside out, and it would also not create moisture from the heat. My thing is that it would let in water and make it hard to find that small hole.

Does anyone have anything on the above?

 

[Timbo89]

Tie down points for the rear


Bracktes for the led oval tail lights

 

[shu2kill]

nice work, very similar to what i havein mind for mine.

how are you installing the bunks??

 

[Timbo89]

Im going to use the standard bolt on brackets so they can be adjustable still.

 

[shu2kill]

thanx, i opted for this:

i made them removeable but not adjustable, however by just adding several sets of holes for the bolt, it would be adjustable as well.