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I was thinkin somethin similar to this :lol: :lol: :lol:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGgDfoIAMWk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
I think you'll want some kind of enrichment system to keep it from leaning out and melting down pistons. Might fix up a smaller gas tank (maybe double oiled) and plumb it to a primer solenoid. Wire it in with the nitrous button. I think the klotz stuff needs to be flushed after you use it. Just have a small tank of double oiled gas to run it on for a minute or 2 at the end of a day to clean it out and oil it up.
 
That's what a wet system consist of. It adds fuel along with no2 . I probably will have a smaller tank with a little richer mix and either some race fuel or av gas for it cause of the compression. Idk if ima spring for a controller , but it might be required tho, it seems like the dry setups do the burn down after they come off the button but idk if any controller will run just fuel for a half a sec after I come off the button. Idk that's along ways from now. Hopefully it's semi respectable off the bottle first.
 
And I kinda found out what that stuff you was talking about was , it's basically a nitrometh additive and ya have to retune for it. I don't really think I'd like something I'd have to retune for if I was to run out of it. With the bottle , if it's empty I can still be on e river with no changes. Im shooting for decent power on pump fuel [-o< and lotsa grins on the nose candy
 
Shows how much I know about nitrous. lol Can't blame you for not wanting to have to change jets all the time. Think it's basically nitro meth with a different base so it will mix with gasoline and not become volatile like nitro methane is.
I run adjustable timing.
 
Yea a wet setup is way safer than a dry ( just fogging the air box) dry setup is what gives no2 the bad name most of the time , people can't make there system keep up with the charge of air nitrous is bringing in. HP in a bottle !!! Now , I feel like an idiot , but I cannot get the power head and mid separated . It twist around some but it won't separate . Do I just need to get rougher with it ?
 
Should be six bolt in the bottom and a nut. The nut is on the back side of the motor right below the head. Actually holds the motor to the adapter plate. Kinda hid away there. Think it's 1/2". Should be all that's holding it on unless the drive shaft splines wore enough to be snagging some.
 
Yea the more I've messed around I've figured out that my drive shaft is stuck. I've got everything loose but nothing will come apart so I'm almost positive it's stuck . Any tricks or tips ?
 
Might try to have someone twist the impeller back and forth while you try to lift it off. I'd say it's wore enough there's a step on the splines that's catching. Might try to drop the jet, that might be easier to get it off first. Just make sure the motors not tilted up so the powerhead don't fall off. lol
 
I've got every bolt out of the mid and the jet . I'll give that a try , I'm just short of heating it at the moment . My nerves are getting short with it lol
 
I wouldn't put any heat o it, no real good way to get to it without putting heat on the block to. I'd be afraid of warping the block. Is there any play between the shaft and the crank if you turn the fly wheel back and forth? Pretty sure this is why they went to a fine spline shaft around 89 or so. The 4 splines end up catching like yours. My brothers last motor had the same problem. Just had to work the fly wheel around and try to pull it off. Finally got it after 15min or so. PAIN!!!
 
Hell id be happy with 15 min . And no play at all , she's stuck tight . I was thinking maybe put some wood in between the impeller and the pump housing but that makes for a high dollar puller. Idk , I'll post back when I get somethin accomplished
 
Here's a old post from Chris Carson on scream and fly. Leave the fuel and electrics connected,break the Powerhead loose from it's gasket and insert a wedge,preferably a wide one beside the center of the back where the exhaust and midsection meet,wedge the Powerhead up 1/4-1/2 in,in the rear only,since the drive-crank spline is close to the front of the motor this will ruin the alignment of the two shaft splines.Now start the motor and the misaligned and spinning shafts will break up the rust and the lower lull magically fall off... In very hard cases you may go through a few heat up cool down sessions or even have to gently pry down on the lower,but it will work,this method has never failed me, many times,chris

Might start one or 2 bolt back in just to have something to hold the powerhead from falling off. wouldn't tighten them down just start a few threads in. Wouldn't run it over a minute out of the water though and probably be a good idea to put in a new water pump impeller afterwards. Also seen where people have wedged something in between the mid and the lower unit. Worst comes to worst cut the drive shaft.
 
I had some chisels wedged between the mid adapter and the power head and cranked it over a couple times with a rachet up top with no luck . I think if I give the shaft a little heat and have pressure on it maybe it'll break the rust loose or whatever's holding it
 
Don't think turning over by hand will do any good think you'll need to start it. That will jar it more then cranking over by hand will. I think you'll burn up the bottom main seal and the guides in the bottom main bearing by the time you get enough heat in it to turn loose.
 
FINALY SOME HEADWAY !!!!! Mine was froze and notched like you said . Thanks a bunch for tellin me that id still be fighting it. It finally unstuck tonight and then I could tell it was notched and it was a job to even get it out after that. Ima try to link a pic
 
https://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r714/VanceRowden/18F5F459-AEED-4C96-AE30-68B3CC8E039B-122-000000055F4AE0A7_zpsd9a0bcc1.jpg


Well I guess I'm not tech savvy enough to figure out how to resize my pic so this link will have to do
 
Glad to hear you got it off finally. Looks like it's time for a new shaft. Is your motor a short shaft or long shaft?
 

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