Transducer Mounting

[BigTerp]

About to the point in my project where I'll be installing my accessories. Have everything figured out in my head expect for my transducer mounting. I like the idea of using the plastic cutting boards instead of drilling through the hull, AGAIN. Can I simply glue a piece of cutting board to the outside of the transom with some 5200? There are a few solid rivets that I put in to seal up the PO's old transducer screw holes. This is pretty much exactly where I want to place mine because it's between the strakes. So those might get in the way. I'd rather not remove those solid rivets because they are going to be tough to get it. If I can "glue" a piece of cutting board to my transom, how in the world and I'm going to clamp it while it cures? Any other mounting ideas you guys think would work well for me?

Here is a shot of the port side of my transom. Sorry for the camo stenciling, I was testing different colors. It kind of makes it difficult to see the rivets I'm talking about, but it's the best picture I've got.

I'm also thinking of putting the transducer to the port side of the last strake. So it would be between the bottom edge of the hull and the strake. This would keep me away from the old mounting holes and give a little more room to mount a piece of cutting board. Would that work, or should I keep it between strakes?

 

[gillhunter]

This is how I did mine. A cutting board from Wally World trimmed down, a couple of SS screws above the water line and 3M Marine Silicone behind the board. Been on for 2 seasons now.

 

[BigTerp]

Thanks gillhunter. I'd like to find a way to just 5200 a small piece of cutting board to my transom. If I do end up screwing one into my transom, the screws will most likely be below the water line. Do you think 5200 will be enough to keep the screws/holes water tight?

 

[FerrisBueller]

The accessory board that you get from retail stores have you drill 2 screws into the transom. I dont see how you could really secure a board on there without and screws, especially when waiting for the 5200 to cure. With mine I put a good amount of 5200 around the screws, in the holes, and on top of the heads themselves and have no problems.

 

[gillhunter]

FerrisBueller » 10 minutes ago[/url]"]The accessory board that you get from retail stores have you drill 2 screws into the transom. I dont see how you could really secure a board on there without and screws, especially when waiting for the 5200 to cure. With mine I put a good amount of 5200 around the screws, in the holes, and on top of the heads themselves and have no problems.

I agree with Ferris, I don't think it would hold, but maybe someone else has made it work for them.

 

[Team Colibri]

On larger boats, I'm a fan of transom saver. But on smaller boats I always use a sensor frame. I want to adjust the hight of the transeducer, both to protect it when launching/ retreving the boat, and to finetune it when in use to get the most out of my fishfinder.

Basicly, a sensor frame is a small rail that you screw on the back of your transom. Usually by two screews, I always use Sikaflex for waterproofing. Then there is an alu plate that moves on the rail, allowing easy adjustment even while the boat is in the water. The alu plate is where you mount the transeducer itself.

I'm on my third ff on my tin, and expect to add StructureScan next year. That transeducer will also be mounted on a sensor frame.

An example:
https://eng.silverboats.fi/accessories/common-accessories/sensor-frame

 

[TNtroller]

It doesn't look like your boat has a stepped transom like my PT 175, but I used a "Stern Saver" which glues on using their epoxy mix. These are similar to wally world cutting boards. I glued mine onto the step but you could glue one to the spot in your picture by just drilling out small spots on the cutting board where it will touch the rivets for clearance. To brace the cutting board while curing, suggest using making tape to hold in place and then push the boat against something solid (wall, etc) and use a 4x4 post to put pressure on the glued on cutting board. Chalk the trailer wheels to hold it tight against the bracing, then wait.

 

[cva34]

All sounds great BUT I mounted WW cutting board on My fish cleaning station in direct sun and after a few years they cracked and failed..I figger it was UV ruining plastic (china)..I used Starboard(high dollar) but its been there 3or4 y and still no problem..My 2C

 

[marshman]

just a thought.... why over think?? you drill holes through the transom to bolt the motor on... why not drill a couple tiny holes to mount a transducer?? just squirt silicone in the hole as you run the screws in and they will seal just fine...

the boat i took out yesterday has a transducer mounted on it thats been on there since the 15 year old boat was new...no leaks.. in fact, on that note, i was impressed thinking thats the dryest aluminum boat ive ever fished a whole day in...not a drop of water in it at the end of the day!!

 

[DrNip]

I would either drill holes and seal or weld a bracket on if you don't want to drill holes.

 

[BigTerp]

marshman » 43 minutes ago[/url]"]just a thought.... why over think?? you drill holes through the transom to bolt the motor on... why not drill a couple tiny holes to mount a transducer?? just squirt silicone in the hole as you run the screws in and they will seal just fine...

the boat i took out yesterday has a transducer mounted on it thats been on there since the 15 year old boat was new...no leaks.. in fact, on that note, i was impressed thinking thats the dryest aluminum boat ive ever fished a whole day in...not a drop of water in it at the end of the day!!

I guess this makes sense. Just wanted to avoid drilling anymore holes into the transom, especially below the waterline, than I have to. I'm still going to use a piece of cutting board though. I'll screw the cutting board into the transom with some 5200 to seal up my screws. The cutting board will allow me to fine tune my transducer position, if I have to, without drilling anymore holes thru the hull. Thanks for all the replies!!

 

[marshman]

you could also run it by a welding shop and have them weld a little piece of channel or a piece of hat section....then just drill your holes in that...

but honestly...i dont think youll have a problem with those little small holes as long you seal them properly...personally, id skip the cutting board thing...that just seems weird to me...

another thought....if you have a good flat surface in your bilge get a shoot through transducer...they will shoot through aluminum contrary to what most think....just gotta have a good clean surface, and no air bubbles in the epoxy..

 

[BigTerp]

I'm thinking cutting board for ease of adjustment. If I install my transducer mount directly to the hull and use 5200 to seal up the screws, it will be a PITA to loosen the screws if I need to adjust the transducer height.

What is the concensus on mounting the transducer between the end of the hull bottom and the first rib? Will there be to much turbulence/interference compared to mounting it between the first and second rib?

 

[surfman]

Why not use the magnetic one advertised on this web site?

 

[lovedr79]

i did the cutting board thing too. works well. i still havent quite gotten it to read at speed very well.

 

[Team Colibri]

Remember that just 5 mm of adjustment up or down can make a HUGE difference in what images you can get on your ff, especially at speed. On my tin 5 mm is the difference between loosing bottom at 17 knots, or having good bottom reading at 34 knots, even in 200+ meters of water. (Lowrance HDS 5 Gen 2 with standard 83/200 kHz 'ducer.)

Some people only use their ff at slow speed, and only to read bottom. If that's your case as well, the mounting really dosent matter that much. But if you want it to work at it's best, then doing adjustments, testing, new adjustments etc is the only way to go with a transom mount 'ducer. In hull or through hull is a slightly different story, but finding the right placement is still a major issue.

 

[2sac]

Chances are you will need to adjust. Especially if you are using imaging.

 

[2sac]

BigTerp » Yesterday, 09:49[/url]"]I'm thinking cutting board for ease of adjustment. If I install my transducer mount directly to the hull and use 5200 to seal up the screws, it will be a PITA to loosen the screws if I need to adjust the transducer height.

What is the concensus on mounting the transducer between the end of the hull bottom and the first rib? Will there be to much turbulence/interference compared to mounting it between the first and second rib?

If it's just sonar without imaging, placement is less critical, but it needs to be in between the strakes. If it's imaging, it needs to be as close to the keel as possible but far enough away to avoid turbulence from the prop.

 

[BigTerp]

Thanks everyone!! With everyone saying I'll need to adjust, it only reinforces my thought on using a cutting board as a mounting surface.

2sac » 43 minutes ago[/url]"]

BigTerp » Yesterday, 09:49[/url]"]I'm thinking cutting board for ease of adjustment. If I install my transducer mount directly to the hull and use 5200 to seal up the screws, it will be a PITA to loosen the screws if I need to adjust the transducer height.

What is the concensus on mounting the transducer between the end of the hull bottom and the first rib? Will there be to much turbulence/interference compared to mounting it between the first and second rib?

If it's just sonar without imaging, placement is less critical, but it needs to be in between the strakes. If it's imaging, it needs to be as close to the keel as possible but far enough away to avoid turbulence from the prop.

It's just sonar. I have a Lowrance X-4. So it looks like I should be mounting in betwwen the strakes. I'm actually more concerned with getting good readings at speed. I have a 50/35 Johnson jet that will be pushing my Tracker 1648 through some pretty skinny water at times. Being able to keep an eye on the bottom depth will be helpfull at WOT.

 

[FBRDrifter]

I use oak (not cutting board) and Shoe-Goo. NO problems after 3 years.