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1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

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mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

Well here we go. I bought this boat 4 years ago or so. Motor was acting up severely, and with new kids, etc, didnt have any time for it so I sold it to a family member more interested than I was at the time.

Boat was looked at a little by a mechanic, but then parked in a field and sat. Nose wheel sunk in the dirt, ended up being parked leaning forward, and of course with the snow and rain up here slowly but surely filled with water until it reached the level of the plug (basically filled to just under the floor). Floor is squishy, and you can obviously see the greenery.

So yea - $200 later and its home with me. Title and reg was never even switched out of my name - so thats one (and the only thing) done.

So here is the game plan since its almost winter here.

1) get the motor to start. Im not using this motor on the boat (the transom needs rebuilt, and the rivers I will use this in are large and fast current, so you either need a kicker or a good 4 stroke to troll with (bow mount wont do on its own for upstream). Plus with kids, etc, i just want reliability and quiet. So yea a new (or newer) 40 or 50 will be going on. So get it running, then remove and sell it off to bank some $ for the build

2) transom out and rebuild. doubled up 3/4 ply, epoxy resin coated, etc...

3) rebuild the floor. Here is where i may need some help. Its modular to a degree, as there are seams, but its hard to tell how it goes under the console, etc. Also, can someone tell me what type of rivets there are in the photo below?

Sure I will have lots of questions as we go, so looking forward to all your help!

Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image3 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image4 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image5 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
Transom has a unhealthy amount of flex in it

Image6 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

trailer will need some work. Several of the rollers rotted out and cracked, etc. Thinking of converting to bunks. Thoughts?

Image7 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

These are the rivets that seem to be holding all the floor panels down. Not sure if i will rivet them down again (more water intrusion it would seem) or just pressure fit them.
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

maintenanceguy
Posts: 118
1
Location: South Jersey

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by maintenanceguy »

I would have said pop rivets but I would expect to see part of the stem in the hole in the center. It's possible the deck was thick enough that the stem broke off far enough below the deck that it can't be seen.

I would drill one or two out and see what you find. You have to remove them anyway and you can't save them.

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

good point about having to remove them anyway. Just thought I would ask if anyone has seen these before. they are much larger and like you said, cant see the center like a traditional pop rivet. Trying to think/order ahead
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

maintenanceguy
Posts: 118
1
Location: South Jersey

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by maintenanceguy »

You can get pop rivets with larger diameter heads. Check out the "Head Diameter" filter in the left side column here: https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

Well got another day to work on it.

Jacked up the boat a bit and replaced the bow roller that had rotted through and cracked, and the roller wheel that had disintegrated. All rolller wheels will be replaced next time the boat is in the water and there is easier access, just wanted to get this one done since it had totally rotted away. Also the tell tale had nothing coming out previously. Was worried about pump/impeller, but puller the telltale line and found it totally clogged. Runs real nice now. Todays downside - stepped in the boat in one of the storage compartments that had the worst water exposure - floor totally cracked right through. Completely rotten. Transom doesnt seem as bad as i thought though - i may get lucky there

Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image3 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

lckstckn2smknbrls
Posts: 4323
11
Location: Algonquin Il

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by lckstckn2smknbrls »

The transom cap looks like a piece of aluminum angle put on as a band-aid for a rotten transom.
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

yea that was my thought as well. Just trying to determine how good this motor is first. That will impact if i keep or sell it when i take it off to do the transom. Would be nice to have a quieter and more reliable modern motor, but the $ is a killer.
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

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1960 yellowboat
Posts: 221
Joined: 24 Apr 2019, 08:04
Location: Homosassa Florida

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by 1960 yellowboat »

Now I'm certainly no expert on anything, but you got one HELL of a nice boat for $200! That motor looks to be in good shape too. I'd keep it. 70 horse Johnson is a good motor. I'd go over it and run it. A new yamaha 90 is around $7500. In this day and age 2 strokes have limited resale value but OMC products are famous for running forever. Yank the rotten floor out and put in new and re=inforce the transom just to be on the safe side. You can get closed end pop rivets that won't allow water intrusion. That's the perfect winter project for those living in the frozen north.
And I'd definately replace the rollers with vinyl covered bunks.

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

Yea i am honestly leaning toward saving/using it. Money is tight with 2 kiddos, and it seems like such a waste to not!

So some questions.

#1 - after running for like 20 mins in a barrel, i parked it over night. The next morning, this welcomed me. Right below the skeg - could see a trail running out the prop and down the skeg. It is thick (not watered down or 2 stroke discharge, black, and oil. So i assume this means the lower unit needs resealed? What is the preferred inline vendor for lower unit seals for a 1975 motor these days?


Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr



So these next ones - this is just my ignorance. I have only ever taken a cooler to fish, and know nothing about live wells, but this boat has a lot of drains and ports, etc. Im hoping someone can help me ID. The boat has two livewells on it - one up by the bow, and one right behind the drivers seat. Ill number this part for convenience of answers. Thanks in advance!


#1) Here is the port side, this through hull is in line with the font live well. It seems to run directly to that screened hole in the top left of the livewell in the second pic (the minnow bucket in the first pic is where the livewell is)? Is that right? Is this just a vent? Overflow drain? Also, in the second pick, does water just enter through that long plastic tube along the top? The drain hole in the bottom - are livewells just gravity drains and this needs a plug?

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image4 by mikejjmay, on Flickr


#2) This is the back port side - no clue in the world what this goes to

Image5 by mikejjmay, on Flickr


#3)

Image6 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Showing the transom. The top left seems to be the same side as the hole in #1. Maybe this is the vent or overflowfor the rear livewell? seems awful high for an overflow

The hole below that - bottom left corner of the transom - no clue - but it is the same size as #2.

The 3 in the middle - the far right is the main drain plug. The far left is the livewell pump (cause I can see it from the inside of the boat). The middle - no clue. The through hull connects to a tube which disappears up the centerline of the boat under the floor. Could this just be a drain for the livewells?


Confused - seems like a lot of holes in the boat!!!!!



Shot of the rear livewell - just trying to figure where all these go!

Image8 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

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1960 yellowboat
Posts: 221
Joined: 24 Apr 2019, 08:04
Location: Homosassa Florida

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by 1960 yellowboat »

Well, here's my idea for the holes. This may sound like a simple, dumb idea but why not just hook up your garden hose and squirt water into the boat from the outside holes? That will tell you where it's going. I'm thinking that the one in the back was for a bilge pump and the others for live wells. Me, I'd rather carry an ice chest for my catch and use the live wells for storage.
Livewell's generally have a pump that brings water in and an overflow tube to let it out.
You can get everything you need for the motor at Marineengines.com.
Put in the model numger and you'll see listings for everything you need.
Also, send "Pappy" an e-mail about engine questions. He's a retired OMC mechanic and knows more about motors than anyone else here. Look for one of his posts under "motors" and click on his name to e-mail him.

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

Great advice!

And yea, i was gonna go the garden hose route, i just have been letting this boat dry for a few weeks now after being completely soaked (the livewells were full of stagnant water) so i was hoping to avoid re-introducing any water.

Realistically, using them for storage is what i will most likely do since i just don't really feel the need for a livewell to be honest. Specially with all the invasive species checks around here, etc, they get really picky with livewells it seems
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

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1960 yellowboat
Posts: 221
Joined: 24 Apr 2019, 08:04
Location: Homosassa Florida

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by 1960 yellowboat »

Just a guess.
I'm not a OMC mechanic and I don't play one on T V
But if you have gearcase oil oozing out behind the prop and down the skeg, you may have a bad seal that dried out from all that sitting.
Take a break. Grab your gear and head out to the Wisconsin River with some leeches,{ no not your brother-in-law] and catch some walleyes.
Used to do quite well on the stretch below the Dells dam.

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thedude
Posts: 347
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Re: 1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by thedude »

That motor looks like a gem. Keep it for sure. I'm 99% certain that oil is unburned 2 stroke especially if the motor was never run above idle (avoid the temptation to open up the throttle while running in a barrel).

I prefer to use my live well as a bait well with a small bait net. I hate to have to use a minnow bucket. The big livewell would make good storage.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

Well had this thing all wrapped up with my new $80 waterproof PVC tarp and support structure - then my father in law offered me an indoor shop over the winter to do the woodwork. So here we go - mad rush before the snow comes to get the motor off and in my garage, and then get the boat over to his shop.

So just thought - maybe, some how, ill just get lucky, since the transom doesnt run all the way to the bottom in the back (about 5 inches off the bottom of the boat) maybe it didnt get totally water logged when this boat was sitting. Best way to tell aside from motor bolts? Pull out a splashwell drain. So here we go

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Alright, not terrible, feels pretty solid. A little damp,. but nothing gushing out.

Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

ok a little brown maybe. Lets get something sharper then my finger - like a flat head, and give a little push

Image3 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

ok so the side caved in....hmm not gonna get lucky on this one i spose.


Image4 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
1
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay »

So motor has to come off - so how to lift. Spend $45 dollars on an eye bolt? No way - got lots laying around.

grade 8 hardware

Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

1/4" steel plate, all welded galvanized 1/2" eye bolt rated for 2300lbs

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

This should work. Motor only weights like 250 i believe

Image3 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

And there we go

Image4 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Old man leant me his engine hoist, so that will work. Just needed a stand. had to go crawl around under the deck - knew i had a bunch of 2x6 left from when i built that thing.

Cost = $0

Image5 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

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