DaleH

More than a few potential Darwin Award candidates in these posts!

Well from what I see, especially with that top cap that’s not only welded in place, but also goes down to the new piece put on the rear...

Starboard or any other such ‘super plastic’ is expen$ive, heavy, shrinks & expands with temperature and has limited to ZERO longitudinal...

Cables should interchange as default at the OB end depending on the OB brand you're using. I'd recommend the UFlex brand of dual-lever...

Just bought a few of the Moras to throw on the various boats I have. I have one already and the edge it obatins AND holds is amazing...

Solved it! At least for NJ …

Here's info on a center keel repair ... once done and done right, ZERO leaks since done, on a tin boat used in the salt to boot...

Go here please ... https://www.tinboats.net/threads/leak-repair-gluvit-3m5200-g-flex-650.52321/#post-522328 ... and one should please...

It’s likely the rivets at the center chine that are suspect. However, the ideal repair doesn’t sound like a viable option for you, i.e...

Empty milk crates for the win! Rode dries out better too!

Yes, epoxies give off an 'amine blush' when curing and that top layer needs a light sanding to ensure whatever else is applied 'sticks'...

Good to know, thanks!

No, paint is good, loose paint not ... My point was BARE tin should be primed before applying any goop/sealer for the best life and...

Most silicones having curing agents that can attack tin. If you're waterproofing the edges of the wood, epoxy on the edges and...

... just be AWARE that the curing agents in some/most silicones attacks aluminum, as it is acid based ... I don't apply any goop to a...