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Try choking it to kill it. I could look at mine and tell you what the wires are but I don't have ,nor do I know where a wiring diagram is.

nice boat, oh BTW , not a Mod V , it's a semi V

you should open them and check the water level anyhow.

I used to use a Christie Multi battery charger that would charge up to 10 12 volt batteries at 40 amps. here's a link .. https://www.christieautomotive.com/products/L1240-MCS10.html

how much for the gears/clutch dog from the bottom end?

ya , I have a "star" wheel with a tire on it . tire isn't great but the wheel is . the "star" wheel has slots where the ribs on the hub are instead of just the big hole. let me know if you want it , make me an offer.

I have a wheel , might even have a tire on it . let me check today at work. those wheels were used on older travel trailers, not very common anymore.

I don't guess anyone else is going to say it , so I will. first , you shouldn't use treated lumber against aluminum as it will cause corrosion. second, the OSB board you used on the transom isn't going to hold up no matter how much sealer you put on it. other than that , looks good , nice...

I would make some sort of jack plate to lower the motor before I'd go cutting on the transom. also those Aux motor brackets are made for trolling applications, IE; slow speeds.

84 / 91 built by US Marine 92 / 99 built by Merc.

yep , I did the same thing. that and some left over 3/16" aluminum diamond plate from some toy hauler ramps. my trailer is an old popup frame and my trailer winch is from the same popup. my live well was built from gelcoat panels that was ordered for a slideout rebuild that never got used and...

when I seen the shop you had the trailer in working on it, I thought you might be an RV tech. after seeing the framing your putting in the boat, I know your an RV tech, as some of it is used A&E Rafter arm Awning hardware, exactly what I used on my boat. great job so far, good to see another...

that vent is only to vent a built in tank so it doesn't "oil can" and allows air to escape when filling . you need compartment vents , one facing forward and one facing rearwards to vent the compartment. a blower with hoses attached to one also helps and a hose attached to the other one running...

whats all the parts cost to put this together VS. a store bought livewell timer and could you put together a complete "how to" on building it?

or just buy the right (short) shaft for it .

I would also set it with the spark plugs up, put a bit of oil in the cylinders and let it soak awhile. then I'd turn it over by hand to make sure it is freed up and moving before I'd try to crank it up .

I got similar ones at wally world.

I use a miter saw and a circular saw. just gotta be careful and go slow to keep it from grabbing the piece and hurting yourself.

The mid 80's Bayliner's were junk, here's the reason why. first, Bayliner tried trimming weight to gain performance for heavy boats, the trade off was too light of material used in bulkheads and stringers making them flex and crack/come apart. then they put the crap Force OB's on them , but...

Being as you and many others (including me ) regard Force motors as junk, are you also trying to say Bayliner's are junk? Given the fact I built boats for Bayliner and currently own one, those are fighting words. Bayliner's aren't "cheap", they just cost less than other boats of the same...