1972 18 horse eletctric start

[jsharp]

does any know if they make or can add electric start to a 1972 18 horse evinrude if so where can i get parts for it and how do i hok it up thanks alot

 

[Defiant]

Here ya go it dosent show an Electric start and you would need to many parts convert it anyway best bet is to find a motor with that option.

https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/parts.html?gclid=CMzllbKqhqACFSJ25QodaTgLlQ

 

[Whoopbass]

You need the starter, bracket, solenoid, and a push button momentary switch.
You can find everything on ebay. I would buy the bracket first or look for a starter that has the bracket attached since the solenoid and switch can be from just about anything. Starters and brackets should be fairly cheap for your motor since they were common and not really in demand like later motors.
I wouldn't spend more then $75-$100 for everything unless you really like your outboard and plan on keeping it for a while.

There should be a place on your motor for the starter and bracket to bolt to so installing that is easy. Wiring the switch and solenoid is a little harder but its not bad. If you end up buying this stuff I can take a look at my outboard and tell you how to do it.
I put a starter on my 25hp Evinrude and its the best thing I done to my rig in a long time.

 

[jasper60103]

Hey, Whoopbass.
I'm planning to add elect start to my '81 j25hp.
I have all the parts, but still gathering some ideas how to
route my battery cables into the motor.
Did you drill a hole through the belly pan
for the cables?
Also, I'm thinking about mounting a push button
on the port side of motor.
Appreciate your ideas.
-jasper

 

[Whoopbass]

I ran my wires through the large factory hole in the bottom of the pan. Then there is a smaller hole you have to run them through in order to get them to come out the front. The holes are obvious so you shouldn't have any problem. I didn't drill any holes.

I drilled a small hole in the front of the motor and mounted the switch. It's near the choke. Mount it where ever you feel most comfortable.
The best switch to get is a 15 amp boat horn switch. You can find them for about $6 at your local boat dealer. The switch is small and for marine use unlike automotive switches.

 

[jasper60103]

I ran my wires through the large factory hole in the bottom of the pan. Then there is a smaller hole you have to run them through in order to get them to come out the front. The holes are obvious so you shouldn't have any problem. I didn't drill any holes.

I drilled a small hole in the front of the motor and mounted the switch. It's near the choke. Mount it where ever you feel most comfortable.
The best switch to get is a 15 amp boat horn switch. You can find them for about $6 at your local boat dealer. The switch is small and for marine use unlike automotive switches.

Ok, after thinking about it and finding a pic. I see no drilling for the battery cables are necessary,
as you stated. They can be routed in from below.
Also, I see the spot on the front (center) to mount my "Start" switch.
Fyi. My "Stop" switch is located on the right where the battery cables are coming in the pic below.

I picked-up a marine switch from iBoats and it should work fine.
The only other thing I need is a crimping tool to put some terminal lugs on
the battery cables.
Looking forward to having this ready for Spring.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Whoopbass]

The only trouble i've had with the conversion is that **** solenoid. My motor is an 87' and I think its a little tighter under the cowl then yours since my tiller is cable controlled (or something like that) rather then with gears. First trip out with this motor it would only do about 10 mph. Finally figured out it was the solenoid in the way (this was my first trip with the outboard ever so I didn't know how it would run). The throttle wouldn't open up because it kept hitting the solenoid. Adjusted it out of the way then later on sparks started flying when I would go WOT. The hot lead was hitting metal when I would twist the throttle so far. When I got home I used zip ties and tied that sucker up and out of the way. The OMC solenoid holder is just a bad design.
Your going to absolutely love having electric start on that motor.

 

[jasper60103]

yea, I'm sure I will enjoy it very much.
I'm glad I don't have to change out the fly wheel to upgrade (on some model years they didn't do that).
Else it would be too expensive unless I lucked out on a cheap parts motor.