1979 Polar Kraft 1446 Catboat Build

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Rdtolbert

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Wanted to start out by saying thank you to those who have provided this library of good information. I am positive this site will cut hundreds of wasted dollars and hours from my build.

I am about to start converting my Polar Kraft, into a cat-fishing boat. The boats main purpose, is running shallow rivers with a 30/20 jet outboard (Also will be used to drift fish small lakes). I purchased the lightest boat I could find(that could run a jet), due to the nature of the area, the boat will be launched in. We have no boat ramps on the two rivers I run, and the few places I have access, are super steep. The boat will be pushed down a 135-170 degree bank, and winched back up. My 3 primary objectives in this build; are to stay light, look sharp, and maximize usability.

Here are the two rough plans I have in my head. The first builds two casting decks, and leaves an area in the middle for a baitwell. This plan 1 design maximizes trolling motor usage, and makes the boat more versatile. The second design is the lightest, and focuses on using multiple rods for cat fishing.
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Here is the boat. With either floor layout, I plan to remove the middle seat, and rear deck. Both seats are filled with foam and take up precious square footage.
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Before I start, I could use some advise.
1. To my fellow cat fisherman out there. If you have experience with various boat floor plans, what would be the idea way to lay this boat out? I plan on using multiple rods at times, and want to maximize that cat slaying functionality.

2. Would aluminum decking save enough weight, to justify the price tag? If so, how should it be attached to the support beams?

3. What would be the best way (looks clean and is sturdy) to install a 3"-4"transom riser, without sending it to a shop or using a welder?
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4. What is the best way to remove carpet adhesive from aluminum?

Thanks in advance
 
I use a T&H Mini Jacker. A tilting trailer might be helpful if yours isn't.
 
I looked at jack plates, but I am worried it will sit the motor to far back and cause cavitation. From what I understand, the jet foot needs to rest against the bottom of the transom.
 
Nice boat yes use aluminum instead of wood screw it down with self tapping screws works great
 
Removed the seats today, ready to clean the interior, replace the rivets, and get it ready for paint.




Going to paint the decking and interior coyote tan.
 
The best way to remove old carpet glue is to use acetone and a scraper. It can be some what of a pain but it is the easiest method I know of. And for flooring material; it all depends on how long you plan on keeping your boat. For short term use maybe 5-6 years plywood for flooring is OK but any longer than that I'd go with aluminum for weight savings and durability.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=351492#p351492 said:
ccm » 06 May 2014, 20:38[/url]"]The best way to remove old carpet glue is to use acetone and a scraper. It can be some what of a pain but it is the easiest method I know of. And for flooring material; it all depends on how long you plan on keeping your boat. For short term use maybe 5-6 years plywood for flooring is OK but any longer than that I'd go with aluminum for weight savings and durability.

Weight is a huge issue for me, and I also want it to look sharp. I have to transport two 200 pound men, 25 gallons of bait tank water, and 14 gallons of fuel. So, anywhere I can shave weight off, is a must. Going to definitely go with aluminum floors and framing. The more I work on it, the more it makes me want to make it pop. Plus, I don't want to let you guys down, when there are so many awesome builds on this site.
 
My uncle had an 18ft flat bottom jon with a Johnson 70hp. He put sheets of aluminum diamond plate in it. The boat was launched at a lot of places that didn't have ramps but it was still light enough to pull back out with a 4 wheel drive and a strong rope tied onto the back of the trailer. It could go through most places, but even loaded down it could still go shallower than my 14ft v-hull. Weight distribution will play a large factor. I saw the boat with my own eyes polled through 3 inches of water. An aluminum floor will be pretty loud, carpet is not a good choice for a cat boat and neither is Rhino - Lining (rough & does not cut back on noise). I would either use Herculiner or put down 1/4 inch thick rubber matting. On a cat boat I like an open layout so there is easy access to the rod holders and removable seats on pedestals are nice ( whenever we went catfishing I always ended up sitting on a 5 gallon bucket or cooler and after bout an hour or so my rear end would go numb. ) Just wanted to give you a few more things to consider on your build.

I like plan number two and it looks like there will be plenty of room left on the bow to configure a trolling motor mount.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=351173#p351173 said:
Rdtolbert » 04 May 2014, 15:59[/url]"]I looked at jack plates, but I am worried it will sit the motor to far back and cause cavitation. From what I understand, the jet foot needs to rest against the bottom of the transom.

I have a 17/55 lowe roughneck with a jet outboard and run the Skyjacker hydraulic transom jack with 6" of setback and never had a problem with cavitation unless it gets pretty choppy. A Jack plate is a must with my boat because I start with the motor lower at take off then raise it up to full height at WOT. I too am a die hard catman and i know what your trying to accomplish, biggest thing is to keep it light, use aluminum for everything possible, and if you really dont need it, take it out. I'm working on the floor of mine right now, I'll start a new thread soon so you can get a feel for maybe what you want to do.
 
Would there be any issues with putting the fuel tank I'm the bow? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1399506054.151036.jpg Want to put a 25 gallon grayling in the middle and keep the rest open. If I could put everything in the bow, them my passenger could move around to help her plane out.
 
No in fact thats good place for it, depending on how big a fuel tank you plan on using. I've heard you dont want it over 10' from the motor or you'll have fuel pump problems but I've seen them as high as 20' from the motor and not a problem. You'll probably end up moving things around once you get it in the water, weight distribution is everything with a jet motor. you dont want to be plowing the water at take off or you'll boil the water around the impellor and cause a cavitation issues.
 
Here is the current design. Aluminum frame front casting deck, covered with diamond plate. Deck of boat covered with diamond plate. Transom riser frame built out of aluminum angle, and one sheet to cover the transom and riser from top to bottom. The sheet on the back will re riveted and welded at the seams. The hull painted gloss black, with canary yellow lettering. The seats canary yellow, with black accents. The interior of the boat, including the diamond plate flooring, sprayed with canary yellow line-x. The motor painted gloss black, with a Jolly Roger airbrushed on either side. What do you think? Can't wait to get some days off, so I can start working on this boat.

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400023459.771314.jpg Picked up the motor from the shop today. New fuel pump, carb kit, and a tune up. Looks like I will be building a 6 3/4 inch transom riser. Going to get it started tomorrow.
 
Built the transom riser frame today. Pinned it all together with stainless screws, until I can test the motor height. Once I feel she is dialed in, I am putting it all together with 1/4 inch solid rivets, and covering it up with diamond plate. With the motor on, the transom has absolutely no flex. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400200992.084189.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1400201048.773386.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1400201105.355509.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1400201173.098706.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1400201209.087267.jpg
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Does it look like the jet foot is at the proper height?
 
Took the "Eliminator" out on Cushing Lake today. I loaded it down with about 160 pounds of water jugs and 50-80 pounds of lake rock. Ran it back in two shallow creeks, went over a beaver dam, mud bar, and about 20 feet of 3-4 inch water. Took it out on open water with light chop and made sharp turns. Performed like a champ with zero cavitation in all situations.

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