1993 BassTracker TX17 Console Switches

[britcom61]

This is my first post, so if this question has already been answered, please just send me a link. If not, then here goes. I just replaced the wood floors, started as a carpet replacement, now I'm into a major refurbishment, but thats another story.
There are 4 rocker switches on my console, I know one is the Bilge pump, off, on, and auto as I replaced the pump last year. One is Lights, not sure about the other2, the labels have faded away long ago. I would like to have them all set to the original original configuration. Does anyone with a similar boat know what they should each control starting left to right?
Also, while I have the console dissasembled, are there any recommended mods that other members have made that would be worth investing the time one while I have access to everything?
One problem I would like to address is the safety shut off lanyard, I knew it did not work, now I know that the connectors had beed pulled appart right behind the switch itseld, I checked the switch and it has continuity when the lanyard is on and no continuity when it is pulled off. I reconnected the wiring and ran the motor, but when I pulled the lanyard off, the motor did not stop. It is a 40hp Johnson Tracker, I have not yet looked under the cowling to see if I can see whats wrong, but I dont know what to look for and all my time is being spent recarpeting, drilling out pop rivets, removing waterlogged floatation foam, and trying to make notes about how all the parts are supposed to go back together now that I cant see the rivet holes or any of the previous marks on the old carpet that gave away how they were suposed to fit back together!
I just hope I can figure that part out. I really would like the safety lanyard to work correctly and to label all the console switches. Was considering adding an auxilliary power supply (cigarette lighter style) socket on the console, and maybe a radio for when just riding the lake and not fishing. Not sure about location of the unit or speakers, or if I really want to go that route.
Anyone who has any help or ideas is welcome to share them with me, especially if they have already gone thru this ordeal and can share their knowledge of what works and what doesnt, and whats not worth the effort! Just at the point where I need to decide if I want to dissconect the wiring and steering from the console, or just cut a slit in the side pannel so I can remove it and re-carpet and replace without the headache of disconecting all that stuff going to the console.
Better stop now and see if I get any repplies. I have taken photos of the job in progress but have not looked into how to post, or even if anyone would be interested as Ive seen a few other members complete the same job and posted lots of photos. They were lucky enough to be indoors while completing their project. I cant fit the boat anywhere in a three car garage, just no room, thats probably my next project.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can share. Lee in VA, 10 mins from Claytor Lake and the New River.

 

[kofkorn]

Take a look at my build. I have an '89, but the switches should be similar. Off the top of my head the switches were:

Navigation lights (anchor/off/nav)
interior lights (on/off)
Bilge pump (on/off)
livewell pump (on/off/timer)

Take a look here for some basic images of the console area:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=105

There are also some random images throughout that may relate to the switches.

Good luck!

 

[britcom61]

Thanks so much for taking the time to send me the link to your project, looks great by the way! Anyway, I don't know what the "Interior lights" means. I dont think there are any lights except the nav lights, Where would these lights be if I had them?
My switches are as follows from left to right (I can just see the lettering on these 3)
1. Lights-Nav (3 position switch, What does Anchor position mean? Obviously off and Navigation lights are known.
2. Bilge (on or off switch)
3. aerator (on or off)
4. Must be livewell pump but it is just an on or off switch.

 

[britcom61]

Here is a photo of the console if it helps...
and a photo of the mess I have made.
Also, where did you get the fuse panel that uses the flat spade auto fuses instead of the original glass type. I would like to change over to that setup, thanks, Lee.

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

"Anchor" light only illuminates the stern light.

Looks like the same hull as mine with the front half of the deck laid out alittle different

 

[britcom61]

I have noticed that the basstracker hull has quite a few different configurations on the front half. Mine has a lot of storage compartments, making it a lot of work to dismantle and re-carpet!
I was looking at my earlier post and realized that my 3rd switch from left is the aerator, then the next switch (furthest to the right) cannot be the livewell pump, as that is what the aerator is, Duh
My Bad. So without having my battery in the boat, what can the switch on the right be?
Does interior lights mean gauges? Speedo, gas tank, battery etc.
My neighbor offered to get me some professional looking labels made where he works, we have both the VOLVO and MACK TRUCKS major factory here and also the Caterpillar heavy equipment factory, and James Hardie Products. I'm not saying which one he works at, but he tells me he can get professional looking permanent labels made for me, so I want to make sure I get them to say the correct thing. what would you recommend I ask him to print ?
NAV LIGHTS
iNSTRUMENTS? (i ASSUME THIS IS THE INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT KOFKORN MENTIONED) If that's right I may add a couple of LED lights under the console and the front lip under the seats.
BILGE
LIVEWELL

 

[kofkorn]

Well, there are certainly differences between the TX17 that you have and the Pro17 that I have. The Pro17 only has one storage compartment under the front deck, and the single livewell in the rear deck.

As for your switches, you have the aerator for the livewell, but there is likely a separate switch for the pump to fill it. That may be your last switch. The aerator only recirculates the water already in the tank and is separate from the pumping system.

The "interior" light switch is just a small courtesy light near the driver's footwell that lights up. The gauges are lit when the "Nav" switch is engaged (just NAV, not Anchor).

I actually took the original bilge pump switch and used that to switch the power to the front panel with the fish finder. That circuit also energizes a 50A relay that controls the power to my new Minn Kota I-Pilot trolling motor, which is always drawing power when it is energized. Now I just flip the front panel / Trolling motor switch to turn it on and off. I added a second Double Throw switch to control the new bilge pump and added an automatic float switch. So now I have a bilge on/off/auto that didn't originally come with the boat. I also added the 12v socket exactly as you were mentioning to plug my phone in when using the GPS system. Very handy on some of our largest lakes in the area.

When I get home, I'll take a picture of my switch configuration and labels (I won't have a chance to post until tomorrow) so you can see how I labeled them.

Good Luck with your build and ask any questions you have. Have you started a thread yet? If not, you should. I'll follow your progress and add unwanted comments

 

[kofkorn]

Sorry I didn't answer your original question about the fuse panel. I got it from Amazon. It's a Sierra International FS40440 ATO 14 Gang Marine Fuse Block. Link is here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HC0QXG/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

Here are some pictures of my layout:

I removed the original stereo and placed the bilge switch, accessory plug, and trim gauge in its place. You can see the one "interior light" just to the left and below the switches on the left side. Pretty pathetic in my opinion.










Good luck!