20hp 4stroke comparisons

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I will take my chances.Plus if the motor will blow up it was defective to begin with whether you break it in by the book or not.If the motor has a defect coming out of the factory it won't matter what you do to run it in.If the motor doesn't have a defect coming out of the factory and you vary the rpms as well as go wot every once in a while it won't blow up,the chances of a motor blowing up from not following the manual to a t is slim to none.Especially a 4stroke,that is something i know for a fact.

The only way i have seen a motor blow up is by not having enough oil in the engine or a blown head gasket.Like i said i never said my method was right but to me it has been effective and fast.I don't just go wot for hrs and hrs,let me rephrase what i mean.I'm not going to be afraid to go wot out of the box.Most people can't control themselves from doing it,very few people i know follow the book to a t.

If you want to know something that is strange check this out,yrs ago mercury was having a ton of problems with their 4strokes making oil and not running right,the issue was people were babying their outboards on the breakin so the rings were not seating right.I heard this from a merc tech who works for mercury for over 20yrs.I tend to think he knows his engines.People think when they get new engines they need to baby them,thats all wrong,babying them will do more bad then good,the man at merc told me don't be afraid to get on it but don't go wot all the time but doing it here and there will do more good then bad.I will believe what he says.Like i said the book has been the same forever and has not been updated like it should be.

Think about this way,a 2stroke and 4stroke are 2 way different engines so how can the breakin be the exact same for both according to the manuals.These engines are built to run hard or they wouldn't recommend running them near wot.Just all IMO.
 
One thing you do not know about Suzuki is they hard chrome the cylinder walls. the rings will not seat like every other motor you have had. Follow it to the letter or you are going to have a oil burner.
 
Well i will call suzuki to find out exactly what is used and if the rings will seat different,if suzuki doesn't know then no one will,lol.Once again i'm still not worried about breaking it in hard.I'm by no means going to baby the motor for the first 10 to 20hrs.I'm also not going to abuse it either,all that needs to be done to break in any engine is vary the rpm range up and down and every once in a while open it up and the engine will be just fine.

I just went on like 30 different forums to see what other people thought on what i'm going to do and it was close to split,50/50 manual and breaking it in hard.I found alot of people who did it by the manual and their motors were making oil for the whole time they have owned it.Then the people who did basically the varying rpm range and going hard every once in a while had 0 issues.

If you look up breaking in a 4stroke outboard there is so much info on it it could take a yr to read it.Like i said if it ain't broke i see no reason to fix it.Just like quite a few people said on the manual on dif sites,it's a liability thing for the manufactures.They want you to take it easy just in case there is some type of issue.It's all good,if i screw the motor up then it's on me,but the chances of anything blowing up or going wrong unless the motor has a defect when it leaves the plant is slim to none.There is very few lemons that i have ever seen in the outboard industry.

A tech at my yamaha dealer said if it makes it through the first yr with no issues then usually it will last a lifetime as long as it's maintained.Also to i'm in no way trying to say your wrong or anything like that,i'm just going to do whats worked for me till it back fires on me iof it ever does,cross my fingers,lol. [-o<
 
I called suzuki and they refered me to a service center which i called,i asked then for 3 service centers in my area actually so if all 3 tell me different or the same i could just use my judgement.

Here is what all 3 said,the process is the same for all outboards that are made, no matter what the cylinder walls are made of the rings must match to seat properly.As far as the rings seating different,they said the rings would seat exactly the same as any outboard.I will take the word of 3 different service centers who actually work on the suzuki outboards.So my method will stay the same as all 5 of my other outboards,break it in by varying the rpms up and down and open it up every once in a while.As far as 20hrs,to me thats just crazy,5hrs is plenty to do that IMO.
 
This from another source i found,what he said is what i basically do,i do know not to hold it at wot for a long peroid of time,what i do is vary the rpms up and down and then hammer it for short bursts.So to a point i do what the manual says,but i want to make sure the rings are seated properly,thats my main concern that many people are having trouble with.

Here is what i found on a reliable source,



Seating rings is really a simple process. The crosshatch pattern that they use on the cylinders helps....so does punching the throttle occasionally to cause a lot of torque to be applied to the crankshaft and holding it open for a few seconds without over-revving. Do that 10-15 times during the break-in period and the rings should never give you any problem.
The break-in procedure used by most manufacturers does not let the engine reach it's 'normal' operating temperature until you get to the point of about 3/4 throttle....that's where you start doing some good. Yes, I know it has a thermostat but it will open before the engine gets nice and warm but that is the 'minimum' operating temperature.
 
Suzuki is remaking the 25hp 4stroke outboard,should be out soon.It's going to be a efi outboard now instead of carbed.Can't wait to see this motor.
 
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