Bow Trolling Motor Battery - Preferred Mounting Location?

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Tin Man

Well-known member
TinBoats Supporter
Oct 1, 2011
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I would like to add a bow mounted TM. 12V/55 with GPS as I like the anchoring function and key fob remote.

NOTE 1: Previous owner to me added two 50# lead weight bags to forward-most area of bow under the forward-most small bench There is no foam under this small bow bench. I believe it there for hull and bow rigidity. The previous owner added this weight so the boat could get on plane quicker and smooth out the ride. Result: The boat rides smooth and gets on plane quickly, but I don't know what it was like before the weights, I can only assume it was not as nicely balanced as it is now.

I currently have a 12V transom mount TM, but want the bow mounted one ( for reasons mentioned above) AND so the weight bags can be removed and restore the 100# (from bags removed) with the TM and single 12V group 27 battery.

My dilemma is where to mount the single 12V battery? I would like it to be as low as possible, as forward as possible, secure, and not damage any of the hull or stringers from a floor it rests on.

NOTE 2: My front floor (factory floor) is behind the forward-most bench, is made of aluminum, and rests on the sides of the hull. Over time, the alum edges have created a detent in the side of the hull. I know this would be a logical and easy place to mount a battery, but I don't think adding a 60# battery to this front floor would be wise, as the edges are severely rubbing against the hull. (This is discussed in another thread from today).

The V shape of the hull and steep bow angle leave few options for creating a flat floor to mount battery.

What other options are there? Any pics of what you have done?



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Here's what I did; maybe it will give you some ideas how to configure your boat.

The boat is a 1979 Lund 14' V-hull. I upgraded the trolling motor to a Minn Kota Powerdrive 55# last summer. I also added a 100AH LiFePO4 Lithium battery from the troller and accessories. It's a Group 31 size battery. There is a Group 24 AGM battery that I use as a starting battery.

Battery weight is critical on a small boat, and so I think that a LiFePO4 battery is the real way to go for a trolling motor. The TM battery weighs 26 pounds which is significantly less than the much smaller starting battery. Together, those two batteries weigh about as much one Group 27 battery

Right now I'm putting in a new Humminbird Helix 7 and so the boat is pretty torn up as I ready it for the season; that's why it looks such a mess. Looking at the boat forward from the stern:

Boat work 1.jpg

When I got the new troller and lithium battery, I moved the battery area away from the transom and into the middle bench of the boat. I would have liked an "open floor plan" but I didn't want to risk a loss of structural integrity by removing the aluminum bulkheads, so I just reused the areas under the benches for battery compartments, tackle storage, etc. Moving the batteries forward helped get the center of gravity moved forward. It also relieved crowding in that area at the stern. I also moved the accessory fuse panel and overload protectors to that middle bench so they're right in front of me when I'm on the tiller.

Better look at the battery area:

Battery compartment.jpg

The batteries sit in plastic trays that are installed on a 3/4" plywood bottom that is secured to the aluminum bulkheads. The aluminum bulkhead also holds the two-bank charger when the batteries are installed. All of this is removed and put into heated storage on the shop during the off season.

Eventually I would like to make nicer hatches to provide access, but the boat is always stored indoors in an unheated machine shed when not on the water. I've been upgrading the boat over multiple seasons, and the hatches are a low priority since the boat doesn't really sit outside in the weather. I will also upgrade the safety flotation at some point.

Hope this helps.
^^^Ray has given you some great suggestions, I would however get rid of those sandbags; you may get on on plane quicker, but top end suffers. The tilt /trim pin adjustment will get you on plane there's usually about 6 holes to put pin in. The #3 or #4 hole is usually the sweet spot.....btw great project, miss my '69 Crestliner.
Some great ideas here, another is to use plywood over the aluminum on your floor to support the battery. When I had my small tinnie, I took aluminum straps attached to the front seat, that hung down to support a plywood shelf where the TM battery was stored. Sort of suspended inside a battery box as there was no floor under that little seat. If you boat in rough water, you might consider a foam pad under your battery box to act as a cushion. I had a piece of black closed cell foam a little over 1" thick under mine to cushion the rough ride as batteries don't like harsh vibration/ pounding.
I have a MK with anchor lock and love it !! Will never use an anchor again unless I have to. My 16' SC will stay in position in 20 mph winds and two ft chop. Try to use screws...nuts and bolts..etc rather than rivets where you can, never know when you will need to remove it for whatever reason!!!

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