Coating hull after removing roofing tar.

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
John,

Well if your going to give it a whirl, try also a Steel Wheel or Brass Wheel. I stay away from a flap disk, though. The steel wheel (use the fine or coarse threaded type, or both) maybe can get in those areas that the cup cant. I use both on my boat. Sometimes the wheel worked better than the cup.

Buy a small can of primer, paint, sealant, or whatever and test a small area to see if it will adhere. Give it ample time to dry then do a water leak test. If it holds, then used what works. Shouldn't run you a whole lot of $$$ to run a small test.

Can you post more pics of the boat?? Lets see it.
 
Skiffing said:
^^^^^^

DO NOT USE steel or brass. Use only stainless or aluminum oxide.

That's bad advice.

Not really. His boat is already corroded and using them isn't going to cause any more damage. I used brass in certain areas on my boat, where it was hard to get to and/or clean, but not on the entire thing. The brass was used lightly in small applications, then a really good rinse. I haven't seen any corrosion appear in the areas I used the brass cup/wheel.
I should of clarified I didn't use steel on my boat and agree on not using steel on a boat, but his doesn't really matter. I was referring to using both the wheel and cup (brass only). Should of used better grammar :shock:

A LITTLE application in an area isn't going to promote HUGE galvanic corrosion. IF used on the entire boat, then yes, I could see this being a major issue. Application perspective should come into play.
 
Chemistry proves that wrong.

Don't use anything but stainless or aluminum oxide on an aluminum boat.

Brass, bronze, steel brushes WILL embed small particles in the aluminum and WILL lead to uncontrolled crevice corrosion.

That's just the way it is.
 
Yes, more pics.

Good luck with this project and I am interested in how it turns out. I enjoy doing things a person is not s'posed to be able to do. Of course I usually find out it is not s'posed to be done after I have done it.
 
I have a bit more gunk to clean of what I guess would be the keel and the other lengthwise supports on the bottom ,a couple of rivets to replace and a couple of pinholes to braze closed.

Here are a couple of photos. It's actually 14 feet long not 13.No inside shots yet but it's just standard three benches and not a whole lot else.
Definitely not in pristine condition but I still feel it has some life left in it and would have been a waste to trash it.
 

Attachments

  • CIMG0433.JPG
    CIMG0433.JPG
    53 KB · Views: 299
  • CIMG0436.JPG
    CIMG0436.JPG
    55.2 KB · Views: 299
  • CIMG0435.JPG
    CIMG0435.JPG
    44.9 KB · Views: 299
  • CIMG0441.JPG
    CIMG0441.JPG
    45.1 KB · Views: 299
OK, so ya, she is a little beat up and eaten, but I agree that she does have some life still in her. Keep us updated on the progress and what you did/used. I be interested (and so would others) to see how she turns out. From the pictures, it doesn't look that bad. I have seen WORSE!!
 
I'll will keep posting updates as I go along.It might be a couple of weeks before I get to coating/painting it though.
I wish I had taken photos when I first got it and of the process of removing the tar.
For future reference diesel is very effective at dissolving tar leaving it easy to wipe away then what's left can be cleaned with degreaser.

After looking into it a bit more that I am going to go ahead and use the coal tar epoxy on the bottom section of the boat up to the ribs on the side(not sure of technical term) and then painting above them.It goes on thick,should seal anything up that I miss and should not be effected by any remnants of tar left under rivets etc.
 
Top