Deck modification to my Triton 1650 SC

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hotshotinn said:
You have done a great job on your boat and you will love the alumimum deck extention.You deck extention looks just like mine and i coated mine with Skid no more and it looks very good.As far as noise the skid no more cuts that back alot not saying it was nosiy without it.You are one of the smart ones not useing wood in your boat,there is no way i would waist my time and money tricking out a boat like these useing wood #-o

Thanks for the compliments! I know I'm going to love this deck modification. Just standing on it after putting it together last night, I already like what I see. Now I have a platform big enough to flounder gig, cast net, fly fish, or even put a couple of lounge chairs on, to sit while anchored at the beach.

I've used the skid-no-more product before, used it in my 14 foot Duracraft, and last fall, as much as I hated to do away with that pretty glossy finish paint on my jetboat....I busted my butt in the boat early one morning while it was wet with dew.....a week or so after that, a game warden nearly slipped and busted their butt when I had them out on a shellfish enforcement, the platform and the floor got a good coat of the stuff. Problem solved.

I was thinking of using the same thing on the deck of the Triton. But my question is....what's the best method to apply this stuff to get a consistent finish? :?:

When I used it, I applied with a roller, and I swear, I wasted more in the nap of the roller than I got on the deck of the boat, and the finish wasn't very consistent, not like I was hoping for.

Once I get the coat of Skid-No-More put down, it'll get a shot of OD green, then, I have to spray some thin swipes with black, and then make a stencil of a turkey oak leaf, and use some brown and tan, to make the leaf pattern. I think I'll have my girlfriend assist me on this, she's better at this kind of thing than me.
Brilliant redneck brake.....that deck came together nicely. The only thing I noticed was the fact that you used two different colors of foam, they dont match so they will not float........just kidding :mrgreen: I envy the fact that you can weld all your bracing.....That is the one thing that I plan on doing for my next build. I want to learn how to weld aluminum on my next boat project. Keep up the good work......looking like she is ready to fly down that creek and get her fish on.
bigwave said:
Brilliant redneck brake.....that deck came together nicely.

'redneck brake' LOL Yep, it works pretty good. The biggest expense I have in it is the jack, and that was only about 100 dollars. As I said before, the rest is made from scrap metal that I bought from my former employer, before he closed his shop down several years ago.

With an 80" width capacity, it can bend just about any sheet metal I ever need to work with, and as thick as 11 ga. (1/8")......try that with a standard press brake, those only do like 20 or 22 guage. Not only that, but it will also bend narrow widths of thick material, like 1/4" x 6" flat steel plate. Again, try that with your standard brake. I used this brake to build the cowling for my jetboat, and that's made from 1/8" aluminum.

The only thing I noticed was the fact that you used two different colors of foam, they dont match so they will not float........just kidding :mrgreen:

LMAO, yeah, I was wondering about that. The foam police might pull me over, do an inspection, and write me up for not having all my foam the same color. :LOL2:

I envy the fact that you can weld all your bracing.....That is the one thing that I plan on doing for my next build. I want to learn how to weld aluminum on my next boat project.

A lot of people are leery of aluminum welding. While it does have a few quirks, once you learn how to weld it, you'll really enjoy working with aluminum. No specialized cutting equipment required, you can cut with with circular saws, or even a miter saw for complex angles, just like cutting wood. Easy to drill, easy to grind (other than clogging abrasive wheels) and very easy to machine.

The trick to remember is that unlike steel, aluminum doesn't change color before it melts. Instead, you see the puddle form, and you have to be able to watch it to tell if you've got too much heat, or not enough. Basically 1 amp for every .001" of material thickness, until you get to about 3/8" then, you have to grind a root face (bevel the edges) to get proper penetration of the base metal.

Because aluminum has 3 times the thermal conductivity of steel, you can start out with the right amount of heat, but as you progress and the work piece gets hotter, toward the end of the weld, the puddle may start to sag and even blow, you have to back off for a second, then do a back-stitch to finish off the weld and fill the crater to prevent a hot-short crack.

Also, aluminum is not forgiving of contamination, it has to be clean to weld it. All weld surfaces need to be cleaned with a SS brush before welding. That's MOST important.

And finally, while aluminum may not require specialized cutting equipment, it does require specialized welding equipment.

Stick: Yes, they do make aluminum electrodes for stick welders, but they don't produce a very good weld, they're OK for fixing something non-structural, but that's about it...and the coating of these rods is very sensitive to moisture, you have to keep them in a heated rod cabinet.

Gas: This was how they originally welded aluminum, before discovering TIG. You use an oxyacetylene torch, except, you switch out the acetylene to hydrogen gas, as it has a lower burning temp of about 4K, instead of 6K like acetylene. You can also braze aluminum, using aluminum rods dipped in a special type of aluminum brazing flux. This is a very slow method of welding aluminum, and unless you're just doing it for sh#ts and giggles, I don't recommend it.

TIG: The highest level of skill is required for this. You either have to add a TIG torch and a high frequency stabilizer to your existing AC stick welder (and remember this cuts its duty cycle in half), or buy a specialized TIG welder. It's like gas welding, but way better. TIG produces the most precise and the strongest welds.

MIG: If you're doing production work, general purpose repair, etc....this is the way to go. It's the fastest, and requires only a moderate amount of skill. A MIG weld will be about 80% as strong as a TIG weld on the same piece of aluminum. While you CAN run aluminum through a regular MIG, it's a have to put a teflon liner in the gun lead, use an oversize contact tip, minimal drive roll pressure, and while welding, the gun lead has to be straight, any bends in the lead can cause the soft aluminum wire to 'bird-nest' back at the drive rolls.

A spool gun eliminates this problem, because it's only pushing the soft wire a few inches, not 15 feet.

Well, there ya have it. When you decide to give it a try, let me know. Be glad to help out any way I can.

Keep up the good work......looking like she is ready to fly down that creek and get her fish on.

It's raining here today, but, at some point, I'll get the wiring and hoses done, caulk my edges, and finish up on the storage boxes. Might even go ahead and round up material to do those rear panels.

Then I'll drag it outside and rinse it down really good to get all this dust and everything off it, and see about trying to etch and paint the metal to match.

But like I said, the worst is over, and it's getting closer to being back in the water. Can't wait to try it out.
To your question about the skid no more.

You might think of going with something different if you want to get a good consistency. I had the same trouble with Herculiner. Thats when I switched to U-Pol Raptor. You can check out my thread and I think on page two I have a shot of the texture. In my cant beat it.
Got a little more done this afternoon.

One thing I did was to run the fuel lines along the gunwale gutter, like I mentioned. On the port side of the boat, from my permanent tank, I'm running 3/8 Type A1 marine fuel hose. It almost fits snug in the track, but I made sure it will stay in there by putting a dab of 5200 fast cure every couple of feet along the hose and pressing it into the gutter.


So, on the starboard side, I was going to use regular outboard fuel hose, and I thought about the issues with those types of hoses breaking down, and instead went with the same thing as I did on the other side....3/8" type A1 hose. Yes, it's expensive, but it'll be the last hose I'll ever have to buy for this boat. I routed the hose through the cable cover located behind the helm area, then through the bracket that holds the throttle/shifter box, then under the console, finally coming back up for a foot or so in front of the livewell, tucking it into the gutter like I did on the port side, then to my portable tank.

My original plan for the deck fill was to cut a hole in the platform and put a deck fill right above the tank. But since I've got the tank back as far as possible (to try to level it up a little) and the fill fitting is at an angle, there's no room to do that. So, instead, I was going to utilize the original setup from the factory, a plastic housing notched out to fit over the lip of the transom and bolt down. I found that it fit the gunwale in the same manner. BUT.......

Anybody see something wrong here? The plastic is all cracked and weathered. Can't use this POS.

As I am often quoted as saying......"****-can!! Start all over! Make a freakin' new one!"
So, that's what I did.

Here it is, with the edges bent (again, with the brake), and the hole cut for the vent/fill neck. Still have to weld the plate in the back. (No, my redneck brake cannot bend 2 corners that meet at a 90. It's good, but it ain't THAT good.


And here it is again, this time, with the plate welded to the back, edges ground and radiused, filler neck installed, and hoses installed. The lip on the outside of the top gives a place to bolt it to the gunwale.


This is what it's going to look like, except, this material is too thin, its only .025" I happened to have it lying around, and used it just for giggles. I'll get some more .090" and use these 2 side panels as an exact template, then rivet the .090 in place.

Still have to install my battery cables, and finish welding the end plates in my boxes. Other than that, and maybe fiddling with trying to make those side panels, then some paint, I'd say she's a couple of days from being in the, I take that soon as I hook up the battery cables, it's ready for a test run. The other stuff is cosmetic, and will get done. But after all this work, I'm dying to see how this thing runs.
Well, yee-haaw! LMAO.

As the redneck saying goes....." I got 'er did" (and BTW, when we did the TV show with Larry The Cable Guy, he had lunch aboard my Triton.....that's another reason I wouldn't want to part with this boat either, although it wasn't on TV like my jetboat, it was still part of the show)

One of the last steps was finishing up on some was a bigger PITA than I thought. I had managed to guess-timate the length required for my fuel hoses, etc.....but I screwed up on the battery cables. I thought that 15 feet of red and black AWG6 would be plenty to go from the battery to the motor. It was. HOWEVER, I did not take into account the radius where it's zip-tied to the cables that run into the cowling, nor did I account for the length that went into the cowling and hooks to the starter and ground. Turns out when I started running those leads, I got to the battery, and, SOB, it was 2 feet short!! #-o Oh, man, that about made me sick, especially considering the AWG6 was 3 dollars a foot, and I had 30 feet!

Fortunately, I bought it from the boat shop (the same place I bought my Triton) and they took the 15 foot lengths back, and I got 20 feet of each....they only charged me for 5 extra feet of black and 5 feet of red. Whew! That was almost a very expensive screw-up. Lesson learned: MEASURE TWICE, and always allow for extra... you chooch!!


There's my 20 feet of black and 20 feet of red AWG 6.

After routing, I only had to cut about a foot or so off the ends. Then, I soldered the terminals onto the ends, and put heat shrink tube on them.

After getting those cables run, then I had to pull and re-route the ground and positive wires that went from the battery to the console wiring. Seems the factory (or someone) had a splice in the ground wire, right at the stern. Looks like they wrapped about 5 or 6 wires in a junction with a big wad of solder, melted it into a big blob, and then put heat shrink over it....what a piss-poor method of really should have had a bus bar, and I'll probably add one later. So, for the time being, I re-wrapped the connection with 3M splice tape, then, I added a length to it, so it would be long enough to reach the battery.

The positive lead that ran from the battery was definitely long enough, but they had it routed behind the clip that holds the console in place, and as much as I tried to pull it, I couldn;t get it to budge. So, I simply clipped all the excess off, then, I made a splice under the console, and extended the wire to the battery.

And finally, I had to run one more AWG 18 wire for the positive wire from the battery to my bilge float switch.

After getting all that done, finally, I was able to de-pig the boat:


After getting everything vacuumed out, I then pulled the boat outside to rinse it down and etch the aluminum.



Here's the phosphoric acid etcher I use:

In this shot, you can see how I have the fuel lines routed, with a primer bulb on either line going to the motor. Also, you can see how I've got all the cables neatly routed.


And look how clean it is under the bench seat. No batteries, wires, or fuel tanks to grow any more smelly slime. Of course, my storage box is going under this seat. but I think behind the area where the box fits, I'm going to make a removable tray with a screen, to keep debris from making it back into the bilge to clog the pump.


But most important....I finally have my shop space back:


Now, on to painting.........


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Getting ready to paint.


I decided to just go the cheap route, use some camoflage rust-o-leum. But I didn't take any shortcuts. Note the OD green Zinc Chromate primer. I could have went with rust-o-leum aluminum primer, but I figured since this is a tread surface, I wanted to use the best primer available.

Discovered another useful tool.....masking paper:


man, that is SO much easier than newspaper. I can't believe I've been using newspaper all these years...but after seeing how easy the masking paper is, bet you I won't use newspaper again to mask anything for painting. That would be like getting rid of a washing machine, and going back to doing laundry on the rocks in the river like a neanderthal.

After putting down the base coat of OD green and throwing some sand on there while it was wet (working small patches at a time) then I proceeded to use my 'stencils'


No, that's not a pot leaf....I know yesterday was 4/20....LOL, but that is a leaf from virginia creeper, and a branch from a leyland cypress.


Maybe it's not exactly a match to the factory paint, but you know what? It looks good from my house. Close enough for government work....nail it.


And with that, the boat is now water-ready.

Today, I'll finish welding the end plates into my storage boxes, do a little touch-up paint on those, and install them.

As I said, at some point soon, I will make the panels for the back sides of the platform and paint them to match, then install them. And that'll do it.

I'd be out there today testing it, except for this:



It's coming down like a double-bladdered cow peeing on a flat river rock, along with some occasional hail and lightning.

You'd figure as much. For the last 2 weeks, it's been drier than a popcorn fart around here, the dirt road in front of the house is a dust bowl. And the day I get done with the boat, we have a monsoon. LOL


Now the road looks like a small lake.

We definitely need the rain, though, so I'm not gonna complain about it too much.

If this system blows out of here by tomorrow, I'll put the boat in and test it out.
Nice job, If you ever need help netting some shrimp or catching a flounder, let me know, I would help for free :) Might could even bring some of that cheap ally along with me. :)
Sounds good. If you're ever up this way, let me know. Whether it's shrimp, flounder, spot tail bass, trout, sheepshead, or many other SW species, I'm sure I can put us on to something!
Don't worry, I did not even work on my boat this weekend.....We had 40-60 mph wind and I surfed all day sunday....sore and sunburned. We got lots of that rain too....needed it real bad or Florida would be burning right now.
Yeah, that was some major rain, and we needed it big time. It's finally moved out of here, so, this afternoon, I'll probably put the Triton in the water either here in the inlet, or over on the river, and test it out.
Over the weekend, I got the last of the finishing touches done.

First thing was to go ahead and close off the rear side panels with some more .090"


The port side was a little bit of a PITA, notching out for the hoses.


You can see how there's a nice radiused bend on the bottom side, this is also riveted to the floor.


Also, I got the boxes done:


The larger box slides under the bench seat. Although it doesn't fit ALL the way in there, it goes far enough back that the edge is beyond the front edge of the seat. Besides, I don't want the box to slide all the way back, I want to be able to put my hands on it and slide it out to open it up:


So, what happened to that short piece of box that was left over from the cut?

Glad you asked:


Since it was really too small to store anything of significant size....I decided this would be the best application:


An onboard cooler! I used some of that leftover 1 1/2" foam board in the bottom and the sides. Granted, it's not a huge cooler, but at least there's something useful in this dead space now.

Here's a couple of shots of the boat from the second floor (not enough elevation to be able to get the whole boat in one shot):



Wind was blowing like crazy today, it's supposed to be in the high 30's tonight, so, I ran out with the jetboat and grabbed a handful of oysters to cook tonight, along with building the last fire of the season.

But now, with everything finally put together on the Triton, I'll launch it tomorrow, and finally see how it does.
I know this is random but can you measure from the inside side of your transom to the front of your back deck? I just wanna see if mine is average size or not. Im thinking about cutting it back a few inches but not sure, thanks
113 & 1/2" inches from inside edge of transom to the back edge of my platform, and that's with the tape laid flat on the rear bench seat, so, it's about 3 or 4 inches lower than the top edge of the transom. As it angles out, from the very top edge of the transom, it's probably more like 115 or 116 inches.
Oh wow I guess I worded it wrong. I meant from inside of transom to the front of the REAR deck. Basically just measuring the back deck frrom transom to the where you sit at, thanks again
thegr8cody said:
Oh wow I guess I worded it wrong. I meant from inside of transom to the front of the REAR deck. Basically just measuring the back deck frrom transom to the where you sit at, thanks again

Oh, sorry....I mis-read what you wrote. I thought you meant to the back edge of the front platform. You''re referring to the front edge of the rear bench seat, where the slider track is, correct?

It's 48 & 1/2 inches, with the tape laid across the bench seat. Measuring from the very top edge of the transom, it's about 49 inches.

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