Thanks for all the detailed responses!!
You're welcome.
I cleaned her up yesterday and will start a build thread with those results instead of clogging up this forum.
Good idea, please be sure and post pics of everything you got going on and put a link to the build in your signature.
I've read through a ton of build threads in the past few weeks and am looking to use aluminum angle as bracing for my bow deck and aluminum sheet for the deck/floor.
Smart on your part to read through the threads.
I plan to rivet the deck to the angle and the angle to the hull/ribs, but use stainless stell screws for the floor for easier removal in case there is a need for inner hull repair.
You might want to fill the cleaned hull with some water to check for leaks before doing too much work to save yourself effort later on. About the the screws: I'm currently working with both rivets and some stainless steel screws (from the boat's manufacture, I saved them). Here's my findings: The screws (any stainless steel I have purchased and I have purchased a bunch.) is a lot more expensive than buying a bunch of aluminum rivets. Closed end/blind pop rivets are just as easy to remove and you can use a lot more to secure your deck due to cost savings. My vote is get a good heavy duty rivet tool (Here's a link to a very reasonably priced one I own and am using on my build now: https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy...and-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html) and keep some extra rivets and tool after the build is done for any later repairs if needed. You'll come out a great deal cheaper this way.
My buddy, who will be helping a ton with this build, is a mechanical engineer so hopefully he can help me come up with some ideas to keep the structual integrity of the boat sound after removing the middle bench. I'm planning on using aluminum sheet up to the gunnel from the bow deck all the way back to the rear bench attached to the ribs and floor. Similar to what caveman did with his build. I would think this would help with some of the structural loss from removing the middle bench, right?
Let your buddy come up with the engineer solutions for you. His education has everything in it to help you maintain the structural integrity while modifying the boat.
When I say all aluminum that only goes for the framing, deck and floor. If/when I replace the transom I'll be using exterior plywood coated with spar urethane.
If you're going to use aluminum decking, consider using epoxy resin and paint instead of spar urethane to maximize transom life to go with your decking. Not that much more expensive. If you can find an aluminum welder cheap (I haven't been able to.), consider aluminum for the transom. For me though, it was $650.00 labor for the aluminum transom vs. a plywood transom I could do myself for $21.00 in plywood and $65.00 in epoxy resin delivered to my door.https://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_kit_3qt
Yeah, hydroturf is on the expensive side but would be a really nice addition.
Durability is somewhat an issue too. I looked at it real hard, but the cost vs. longevity for fishing nixed it for me.
If the budget allows I'll try and use that on the deck/floor and grizzly grip on the aluminum sheet covering the gunwales just to keep it from being bare aluminum.
Not a bad idea.
This is getting way to detailed so I'll be sure to move it over to a build thread. Thanks again for the response!!