He Reigns Mon Ark project

[bnt5]

Well, that's a start! I would start by rebuilding carb and putting the jets back into oem stock position if they aren't already there. after carb rebuild I would clean out the gas tank and replace fuel filter like you mentioned. If that doesn't fix the issue then at least you know the simple things can be ruled out. Good luck on the next voyage! I am sure if you remove the metal bar stock in front of the intake, that will reduce a lot of the cavitation. As far as the leak goes just throw your fish into the back of the hull and call it a replenishing livewell....

 

[He Reigns]

I put enough caulk on it today to save the titanic. I should not have anymore leaks. I trimmed the front aluminum flat bars that were on the spoon shorter. They now are to the side of spoon. Hopefully that will stop some of the cavitation. I removed fuel selector switch and eliminated the reserve. Now it has two lines to the tank rather than four. I also installed a new fuel filter. Then I went and worked on my friends boat. He had a minor issue that was a easy fix. So we took it out for a spin to check it and fished for bass for a bit. No bass but five channel cats from four to seven pounds.

 

[He Reigns]

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[He Reigns]

My son trying to hold up a five pounder that is flopping around.. He out fished us all, with three to his credit.

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[amk]

PSG-1 » 24 May 2014, 06:50[/url]"]Looking good! =D>

Once you get the engine/pump installed, the rest of the project will be pretty easy, as it's just a matter of hooking up hoses, wires, and control cables. You may need to extend them. If so, be sure to use marine grade wiring, and use the heat-shrink splice connectors for your wiring, for best reliability. Teleflex CC633-series cables for the control cables, except for steering, that should be a CC6400 series, you really don't want to use the smaller 633-series for this.

The engine and pump installation is the biggest PITA, and it's why when people ask me how much for a boat like mine.....I tell them that I would charge no less than $2000 to install an engine and pump (welded tunnel for bolt-up pump configuration) When people hear the price, they usually hang up, or they decide not to do it. Oh, well. I'm not in business to give my **** work away. Spoolguns don't run for free, and argon bottles don't fill themselves back up for free, either.

Had one guy that didn't like my price, tell me that he'd found someone to do the whole thing for about 600 bucks. I've yet to see any youtube videos, or any internet postings about THAT particular boat!!! And we probably won't. Any welder who would take on that type of project for that price, is obviously working at crackhead rates, not AWS-certified welder rates. LOL

I cant believe people would think it would be cheaper. that's a lot of work.

 

[bnt5]

Inquiring minds want to know.....what's the prognosis? Does she run now or have you just ruined a perfectly good jet ski? :LOL2:
I read in a previous post that you got that 16 footer up to 35mph? If that's the case I should be able to get upper 30's on a 14 footer! Was that number gps or guesstimate?

 

[He Reigns]

She is going for test run #2 tonight. 35 mph was a guess. Tonight she will be clocked by GPS. Hopefully fuel and cavitation issue resolved.

 

[PSG-1]

amk » Today, 16:40[/url]"]

PSG-1 » 24 May 2014, 06:50[/url]"]Looking good! =D>

Once you get the engine/pump installed, the rest of the project will be pretty easy, as it's just a matter of hooking up hoses, wires, and control cables. You may need to extend them. If so, be sure to use marine grade wiring, and use the heat-shrink splice connectors for your wiring, for best reliability. Teleflex CC633-series cables for the control cables, except for steering, that should be a CC6400 series, you really don't want to use the smaller 633-series for this.

The engine and pump installation is the biggest PITA, and it's why when people ask me how much for a boat like mine.....I tell them that I would charge no less than $2000 to install an engine and pump (welded tunnel for bolt-up pump configuration) When people hear the price, they usually hang up, or they decide not to do it. Oh, well. I'm not in business to give my **** work away. Spoolguns don't run for free, and argon bottles don't fill themselves back up for free, either.

Had one guy that didn't like my price, tell me that he'd found someone to do the whole thing for about 600 bucks. I've yet to see any youtube videos, or any internet postings about THAT particular boat!!! And we probably won't. Any welder who would take on that type of project for that price, is obviously working at crackhead rates, not AWS-certified welder rates. LOL

I cant believe people would think it would be cheaper. that's a lot of work.

It really is. Most people do the cut-and-splice method, because it's MUCH less expensive than the welded method. Particularly if they don't have their own equipment and have to go to a welding shop to get it done. Most welding shops around here charge at least 60 dollars an hour. Then figure up the cost of materials such as aluminum plate, etc, along with everything else that goes into one of these builds, and it adds up real quick.

 

[PSG-1]

He Reigns » 40 minutes ago[/url]"]She is going for test run #2 tonight. 35 mph was a guess. Tonight she will be clocked by GPS. Hopefully fuel and cavitation issue resolved.

Looking forward to hearing the results! 8)

 

[He Reigns]

Test run #2 is a fail. It looks to be carburetor issues, I will tear them off in the next few days. I will say while making a speed run and all cylinders going good she was pulling hard, 25 mph, 26, 27,28, 29 and she cuts out. It still had a lot left in it. I'm thinking close to 40 if she ever runs right. Test run #3 will hopefully be this weekend.

 

[bnt5]

That's a big bummer...hopefully you have a rebuild kit on the way. I would also make sure the reed cage gaskets are sealed nice and tightly.

 

[PSG-1]

Make sure that the pulser hose is hooked between the fitting on the crankcase and the fuel pump. Also, make sure that the vent is letting air get in, but not out. You want some pressure to build up in the tank(s), as this also helps to feed fuel to the pump.

When you take the carbs apart, be sure to check the internal filters in those, as well.

 

[Ranchero50]

Sounds like he needs to go through the carbs. Basic rebuild kit and replace the rubber hoses. Pulser line should be working as it does run at idle, just can't fuel enough at loaded speed.

What carbs? If Mikuni's you can take them apart carefully and not ruin the rubber gaskets. Also make sure the hoses are routed correctly as I had issues with that.

 

[He Reigns]

Everything listed above has been checked it correctly installed. When I work a problem I usually start at the source and work my way through the system. In this case I stared at the fuel tank and worked my way to the carbs. I did removed the Mikuni carbs and pulled the diaphragm covers, and diaphragms only to see grit in them. I plan to tear them appart and see what they reveal. If I can clean them up I will, if they need rebuild I will. I'm not the kind of guy to throw money at something unless it needs it.

 

[Ranchero50]

Spend the money now, before you lean out a cylinder and roast the engine... Mikuni's are dead nuts simple to rebuild. Setting the pop off pressure was trickiest just making the little air pressure regulator setup to calibrate them. A couple cans of brake cleaner and some light oil for the gaskets when they are reassembled and it only takes a couple hours to get them cleaned up and set up. I think I had less than $60 in the kits for my two carbs. Money well spent as it's been hassle free since then.

 

[He Reigns]

After looking in the carbs they were actually pretty clean. I took them all apart and cleaned them out with carb cleaner. I set the needles to factory specs. We took her out for a run and she ran ok. Not perfect yet with a little cutting out here and there. Now onto the electrical, New plugs will be here tomorrow. I will check the plug wires and a general inspection of all electrical components. The vid is me and my son, together we weigh 290 plus two batteries and tools, half a tank of gas. She was going 35 mph in the vid only running on 2 and 3/4 cylinders. Getting closer......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrIJjwN75_A&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[He Reigns]

35 mph was by GPS. She still has a little more in her. I really need to get her running right so I can build the decks. It's kinda rough sitting on the 2x4.

 

[bnt5]

Looks like fun! Bet your boy is loving dads new cool boat . I know my boys are excited for their first jetjon ride.... good luck on working the bugs out of the ski.

 

[He Reigns]

Ugh, bad news. After checking the electrical system from top to bottom I did some looking, the back/pump cylinder was always given me problems. I decited to take a look. Not good. Remember I bought this jet ski not running, looks like it had a problem when I bought it......well 35 mph on a burnt up cylinder is not bad, she should go really good when fixed.

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[user 6672]

Ouch man.. sorry to hear it.

Is the cylinder marred at all or can you do a light ball hone and be good to go?

Looks like melt down from predetonation almost...